Hayward SWG display says "COLD"

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KennyFlaming

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Apr 15, 2016
43
Erath, LA
I have a hayward SWG, a day or two ago the display bgean to say "cold" when i clicked the diagnostics button it showed the water temp at about 76 degrees

Today I looked at it and it says cold again and the temp shows anywhere from 45-49 degrees Actual pool temp is 75-77 degree's

I called hayward they had me shut unit off for a minute or so and then back on to see if it corrected it- but it did not it still says COLD and various temps all below 50 degrees.

We really dont have a qualified Hayward person in my area- so I figure whoever i would call out from a local pool co. will only suggest replacing the control box and thats about $500+/-

Is there a way to repair/Correct this myself???
 
Replace Hayward SWG

It may prove that I need to replace my Hayward SWG control panel.

Since a new controller is almost the same as new controller/cell combo (my cell was replaced last year)

Is there an good alternative to Hayward that won't break the bank and uses same plumbing?
 
Re: Replace Hayward SWG

JamesW said:
What's wrong with the controller?
Click to expand...
i have another thread on here about controller but here's my issue:

A couple of days ago the display started displaying "cold" sometimes when I hit the diagnostic button it will show temp 46-49degrees and sometimes it will show temp as 75-77 (this is the accurate temp)

I called Hayward yesterday and their only idea was switch to off a few minutes and then back on. This didn't work. They said probably something in the board is bad.

Since we really don't have a Hayward dealer/repairman in area I'm assuming that if I call someone out that their just going to recommend replacing the whole board/controller.

The system is about 6/7 yrs old (came with house) we replaces cell last year.
 
Unplug all plug connections to the control board and I believe the board plugs into a connector. Remove the board from this connector. I've seen other posts where this solved some board issues.
 
I tried something..

I shut off the power at the breaker, removed the cord that goes from controller to cell- blew out both ends of the connection with canned air; shot a little WD40 let it sit a few seconds and then blew out again with the canned air.

Plugged it back into controller, turned power back on and then started the pump. So far so good no "cold" message and the temp reads accurate.

If this doesnt last, I am going to have to grill a few burgers for my Son In Law and have him come remove the board etc like Ping said. My Son In Law works with computer boards all the time so it worth cooking him lunch to keep me from messing somthing up!
 

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Are y'all recommending taking the circuit board that is attached to back of housing off ( the one with all the power connections) or the front board with the display and % dial only.

I removed and re-installed the front one (the one wth the dial etc) and re-attached. Still waiting on outcome.
 
There's a 10k thermistor in the cell. There are 6 wires going to the cell. If you look at the plug, you will see 10 connection points. 4 are silver color (possibly aluminum) and 6 are gold color (possibly copper). Only the gold color connectors go to the cell. The 4 silver color are not used. (Edit) - see post below for the correct plug map(end edit).

2 go to black wires that go to the outer plates. 2 go to white wires that go to the center plate. 2 go to the thermistor (one red and one blue wire).

The thermistor changes resistance as the temperature changes. The resistance increases with lower temperature.

There are three likely scenarios. The thermistor is failing, the connection is corroded and increasing the resistance or the circuit board is failing.

Try some contact cleaner on the connection points. Turn off power and then use the cleaner. Wait for the solvent to completely dry before repowering the unit.

Next, you can test the thermistor by using a multimeter to check the resistance and compare it to the temperature as shown on a 10 k thermistor chart. I'm not sure which 2 connection points go to the thermistor but I will try to find out.
 
---UPDATE---

After I removed and re-installed the first panel (the one with the Display and % Dial) I have had no problems.
My Son In Law mentioned that it is possible that simply removing the first panel it may have re-set something internal and cleared any issues.

I dont know but at this point it seems to be working correctly.
 
:goodjob: Good job. Thanks for the update. Sometimes the display board connection points are not making good contact with the pins and resetting the display creates better connections.

If you need to check the thermistor, here is the plug map:

Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.

1) Black - Power to cell
2) White - Power to cell
3) Black - Power to cell
4) White - Power to cell
5) Brown - Not used
6) Red - Goes to thermistor
7) Orange - Not used
8) Yellow - Not used
9) Green - Not used
10) Blue - Goes to thermistor

The display will show cold at 50 Fahrenheit which corresponds to a resistance of about 19,900 ohms. If you put your multimeter test leads on points 6 and 10, the resistance should correspond to the thermistor's temperature as shown in a 10 k thermistor chart.

50 f = 19,900 ohms
60 f = 15,310 ohms
70 f = 11,882 ohms
77 f = 10,000 ohms (the 10k reference point)
80 f = 9,297 ohms

Note that each 10 k thermistor has its own specific chart, so the numbers won't be exact unless you have the chart for the specific thermistor.
90
 
Okay I spoke (typed too soon) went out this afternoon to shut off pump and looked at display and it said "COLD"

So... Should I replace the the main board or the display board? I am thinking it is the main board that is giving me the problem-

The unit is 7-9 yrs old +/- so instead of just replacing certain parts of board it may be best to g with the whole new board- just need to make sure I replace the right one!
 
Unplug the cell from the box. Look straight at the plug connection with the cord going down. Get a multimeter and test ohms between the bottom right connection point and the connection point two spots above the bottom right (points 6 and 10). That will tell you if the temperature sensor is giving the correct value.

Can you post all of the diagnostics?
 
JamesW said:
Unplug the cell from the box. Look straight at the plug connection with the cord going down. Get a multimeter and test ohms between the bottom right connection point and the connection point two spots above the bottom right (points 6 and 10). That will tell you if the temperature sensor is giving the correct value.

Can you post all of the diagnostics?
Click to expand...

Okay

The meter read 9.33k
 
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