triptyx - Tucson, AZ

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triptyx

triptyx

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TFP Guide
Apr 12, 2016
1,511
Tucson, AZ
I grew up with a plaster in-ground pool in the back yard. To my knowledge, we never tested it, chucked chlorine tabs into the filter basket, and called it a day. Of course we ran into algae problems more than once, and I'm sure my parents made a total mess of the chemistry.

I got out of the pool business for many years, but now have just purchased a house with a pool, and am here to learn the right way to maintain my investment and to have a pool that is enjoyable and usable.

My challenge right now is that we're heading into pool season, but I'm still paying rent on my last place until the end of June, so cash isn't plentiful (in fact, we're just about break even or so). I had my water tested, and the CYA is somewhere north of 220 (I need to pull those papers back out). I'm currently in a debate as to whether or not it will make more sense to spend the money to refill it now, or to attempt to keep things in check long enough to make it into July when I can afford the water bill. I'm just starting tests to see just how much I'll be spending on bleach to keep the FC high enough to avoid problems until July and I'll go from there.

Anyhow, I've been lurking for a few days, and am excited at all of the great information here.
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Honestly, knowing the history of water in your area, I would suggest first & foremost to make sure you are testing the water yourself with either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006. I say this because either of these two kits will clearly confirm your CYA and CH - both of which if they are too high might require water exchange. So you would want to do that before getting to far ahead with other chemical treatments. If you already have one of those kits - great! If not, I would highly encourage it. We're glad to have you with us and look forward ot helping any way we can so you have a great swimming season. Have a great evening.
 
Welcome! :wave:

Assuming the water is clear...

It'll take a load of bleach to get your FC up to 17, but the daily use won't be any worse than someone with normal CYA levels. Unfortunately, with FC that high, your pH reading will always be suspect. FC>10 reacts with the indicator and makes it read falsely high, just so you know.

As you're in Arizona, I'd suspect your CH number is also astronomical, so a partial drain is in your future.

Again assuming the water is algae-free, you would be a candidate for phos-free or algaecide, just as insurance, because if you DO get algae, you'll really have no choice but to drain and right now, no putting it off. On the downside, a jug of phosfree probably costs as much as the water to refill the pool. And good algaecides are also pricey, and tend to react with chlorine, so you'll be using more bleach and paying for it as well.

Check with the water company -- sometimes they allow a refill every few years without overuse surcharges or sewer fees, as long as you arrange it in advance.

Final word of advice: get your own test kit. Ultimately it will save you money.
 
Welcome to TFP and congrats on the new pool!

Definitely get a Taylor K-2006C or a TF-100 from TFTestkits.net. the TF100 is a better value, both use the same reagents. Having some good test results will make it easier to determine what to do next.
 
The water is clear and sparkly at the moment, so at least I'm not (yet) fighting a green monster.

I entriely agree that the a drain/refill is in the cards, I'm just trying to do it when I'm not under massive budget stress.

A TF-100 is in the cards in the near future for sure. Gotta get the bills paid first. ;) For now I have those crappy test strips - I know (now) they suck. Hehe

Thanks for the thoughts on getting/keeping FC high. I'm going to research the cost of an 80% drain/fill to get CYA under control as soon as possible. Agreed on CH, I'm confident it's through the roof.
 
I don't know what water system you are on, but I'm on Marana water and I can drain and refill my 19k pool for less than $150 (plus chemical cost). Surprisingly, water costs in the Tucson area aren't as high as some other places.
 
I would certainly check with the water company. Many may waive the sewer fees etc if they know you are filling a pool. Might not be as expensive as you think.

It costs me a lot more to add the salt or CYA than it does for the water .. advantage of semi private well with some of the best tasting water I have ever had, no filter required :D
 
chief, that's great info, thanks! I'll give Tucson Water a call and see what they think. If it's in the $100-200 range, I'll do a proper drain and refill in short order.

Edited to add - Obviously I'll not be refilling it until I can get a proper test kit and get a good, correct, CYA number.
 
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Definitely need a vacuum of some kind for the bottom. I did manage to install the missing diverter in the skimmer basket yesterday, so at least now I have some amount of suction on the bottom to sweep into.

Today was was leaf rake and brush, and when I tried to adjust the auto fill the float broke off in my hand. A quick trip to Ace Hardware and I have a nice, new one installed.

When you you have a spa with a spillway, what is the strategy for spa drain suction versus water spilling into the pool?
 
triptyx said:
When you you have a spa with a spillway, what is the strategy for spa drain suction versus water spilling into the pool?
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What I do is 100% suction from pool, 80% pool, 20% spa return. Don't try matching suction and return rates so the spa stays full. If something happens -- like the pool skimmer basket clogs, even partially -- then more suction will go to the spa than the pool and you'll empty the spa faster than it refills. Then you suck air, lose prime, and overheat and warp the pump housing.

Empty the spa into the pool and then set the valves to 80/20 and see how long it takes to refill. Betcha it takes no more than half an hour. If you run the pump three hours a day, that would give you six times the spa volume passing through. It'll stay plenty clean and get plenty of chemicals.
 

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triptyx said:
Got it. Then I'm assuming you divert everything into the spa system when you're heating/using it?
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Actually, I generally lower the spa into the pool a couple inches to allow for displacement and then I set it to 100% spa in and out and fire off the heater. No point heating water that's just going to spill into the pool as soon as someone climbs in.

Also noted: when heating the whole pool for a swim party, the spa warms up a lot more than the pool, and kids tend to gravitate to it as the sun goes down. The way to get 'em out is to shut off the heat and run 100% pool water into the spa. Chills 'em right out! :lol:
 
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