Am having similar pH issue. I've the TF-100 Test Kit. When I measure chlorine & pH using the Taylor Basic k-1000, it shows Cl Br at the 1-2 level, and pH at the 8.2 level. When I use the Test Kit, TA is at 60, and CYA is at 40. Maybe I'm not using the CYA View Tube correctly: I fill it until I cannot see even the outline of the black dot; until the black dot cannot be seen at all. Do I go too far? The CH reads 350. I didn't do TA as it is below 5 ppm. I've a SWG. Suggestions most welcome.
Henry M Better pH Test?
- Thread starter Henry M
- Start date
Are you not testing your FC and CC with the DPD-FAS test (with that special "Chlorine Only" tube)? The Taylor K-1000 test is great for pH, but it just gives you a rough idea of the chlorine. You need to know your FC and if you have CCs.
Unless your FC is over 10 which makes the pH test unreliable- Your pH is too high and needs to be dropped with some MA. Using PoolMath <link above> you can see how much to add.
Being in FL (lots of sun!) and with a SWG, your CYA should be higher to maintain your FC. I'd aim for 70 or 80, but know that with the frequent rains and occasional draining water from the pool, your CYA will drop over time.
" I didn't do TA as it is below 5 ppm." huh? This doesn't make sense to me. Can you explain?
Unless your FC is over 10 which makes the pH test unreliable- Your pH is too high and needs to be dropped with some MA. Using PoolMath <link above> you can see how much to add.
Being in FL (lots of sun!) and with a SWG, your CYA should be higher to maintain your FC. I'd aim for 70 or 80, but know that with the frequent rains and occasional draining water from the pool, your CYA will drop over time.
" I didn't do TA as it is below 5 ppm." huh? This doesn't make sense to me. Can you explain?
Thanks for your reply. I should have written FC not TA. In any event, I just finished testing pool chemistry again, using the TF-100 Kit; the Taylor K-1000 kit; and test strips. Results using the T-1000 kit: FC 6; CC 10. CH 350; TA 80; CYA 40. From Taylor K-1000: Cl 5-10 range; pH 8. Strips: FC 0; TA 60; Stabilizer 0. I trust the results of TF-100 procedures more than the others. It looks to me like I need to decrease FC & pH figures; increase CYA figure, all of which can be accomplished by adding MA. Does this seem right?
Sorry, you're a tad confused. MA does not decrease FC nor increase CYA. MA (Muriatic Acid) is only to decrease the pH. A side benefit (or not??) is that it will also decrease the TA some. When someone has a too high TA (Total Alkalinity) the way to fix that is to repeatedly lower the pH with MA, then raise the pH (alone) by using aeration.
As to your use of the TF-100= how did you test that FC and CC? Did you put 10mL of pool water in the tube with the DPD powder and then the 871 reagent, counting each drop added until the water cleared? Then divide that number of drops by 2 and you'll have your FC. Then quickly to that same sample add 5 drops of the reagent to test for CCs and that number of drops divided by 2 equals your CCs. I *hope* you don't *really* have 10 CCs?!?
Ignore the test strips...aka "guess strips" as you can see how far fetched those were, huh?
I only use the Taylor's K-1000 chlorine test to confirm that I actually *do* have some chlorine, but I never use it to determine *how much*. Too subjective for me.
As to your use of the TF-100= how did you test that FC and CC? Did you put 10mL of pool water in the tube with the DPD powder and then the 871 reagent, counting each drop added until the water cleared? Then divide that number of drops by 2 and you'll have your FC. Then quickly to that same sample add 5 drops of the reagent to test for CCs and that number of drops divided by 2 equals your CCs. I *hope* you don't *really* have 10 CCs?!?
Ignore the test strips...aka "guess strips" as you can see how far fetched those were, huh?
I only use the Taylor's K-1000 chlorine test to confirm that I actually *do* have some chlorine, but I never use it to determine *how much*. Too subjective for me.
Thanks for clearing up my confusion. I was confusing MA with Cyanuric Acid. For testing FC I did put 10ml pool water in marked tube; added the DPD powder, and the drops of 0871 reagent until water cleared. But the directions I have indicates I should multiply the total "number of drops you added x 0.5." Same difference. And you are right, the CC should read 1, not 10. Some keyboards just operate better than others.
And thanks for the advice about test strips & use of K-1000. Most helpful. Using the pool math tool, I will add CYA to increase that figure & MA to lower pH, right? And while FC is on the high side, I think I'll just leave it & let it lower itself on its own. If I still appear to be confused, please tell me. I appreciate your advice.
And thanks for the advice about test strips & use of K-1000. Most helpful. Using the pool math tool, I will add CYA to increase that figure & MA to lower pH, right? And while FC is on the high side, I think I'll just leave it & let it lower itself on its own. If I still appear to be confused, please tell me. I appreciate your advice.
Glad to help!
You're on the right track with the CYA and MA, but...how does your water look? When your CCs are 1 or greater that generally means *something unwanted* is in the water. Are you seeing any green algae or cloudy water? Your FC is not exorbitantly high at all.
For CYA of 40 (non-SWG pool) you want your FC to never drop below 3, ideally it would linger about 5, and if you had to perform a SLAM procedure you'd take it up and maintain it at 16ppm until: all cleared up, less than 0.5 CCs and passing the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test).
Please review this link: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Have you read through Pool School?
You're on the right track with the CYA and MA, but...how does your water look? When your CCs are 1 or greater that generally means *something unwanted* is in the water. Are you seeing any green algae or cloudy water? Your FC is not exorbitantly high at all.
For CYA of 40 (non-SWG pool) you want your FC to never drop below 3, ideally it would linger about 5, and if you had to perform a SLAM procedure you'd take it up and maintain it at 16ppm until: all cleared up, less than 0.5 CCs and passing the OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test).
Please review this link: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Have you read through Pool School?
Water is actually crystal clear. Although there is an indication of some green/yellow algae beginning to form in one small spot. Will read, again, Pool School. Any suggestions about algae?
Sorry to say you probably do need to perform a SLAM. If you catch it early it should clear up quickly. Make sure you have enough testing reagents to do the FC/CC test frequently during the procedure. Order more now if you're not sure.
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Bring back any questions, Henry We're here to help!
Yip
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Bring back any questions, Henry
We're here to help!Yip
The best chemical to use as a pH reducer is muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid) it adds nothing unnecessary to your pool, unlike solid forms of pH reducer. Use the Pool Math page to determine how much you need to add. Make sure you input all your chemistry values into Pool Math as they will affect the amount of acid needed.
You can buy muriatic acid at most hardware or big box hardware stores, usually found in the paint or concrete sections of the store in gallon containers. Full strength 31% acid is the best value, but some stores may carry ~15% varieties. Caution is required when using MA. It releases heavy fumes when poured and especially when open to humid air. Be sure to pour slowly into the pool, with the wind to your back. Protective eyewear is recommended. http://media.hasapool.com/msds/110.pdf
Reading through the Recommended Chemicals article here would be a good idea: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
You can buy muriatic acid at most hardware or big box hardware stores, usually found in the paint or concrete sections of the store in gallon containers. Full strength 31% acid is the best value, but some stores may carry ~15% varieties. Caution is required when using MA. It releases heavy fumes when poured and especially when open to humid air. Be sure to pour slowly into the pool, with the wind to your back. Protective eyewear is recommended. http://media.hasapool.com/msds/110.pdf
Reading through the Recommended Chemicals article here would be a good idea: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Totally agree about the significance of Pool School articles!! I've had balancing issues for a while, but thanks to the information in Pool School & support from others in TFP, all seems to be well now. It takes some getting used to, but after only a few attempts, I think you'll find how great it all is. Even better: we're not paying any place like Pinch a Penny.