Is it worth the trouble?

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Nickmyster16

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Apr 12, 2016
10
morgantown
I bought a home last year... which was a complete reno... still not quite done with it..

But it came with a hot tub that was also neglected . 1998 sundance calypso. I filled it up after scrubbing and noticed that a pump didn't work. Ok no problem . Got a new pump and popped jt on. There are 2 areas I beliebe are leaking.... it's a foam insulated tub and I can't see where it's coming from. Started cutting into the foam just to look and ants everywhere! (Eek) .

Before I continue . Is it worth my troubles and money to try and salvage? The inside looks new still . But there are spots leaking thst I can't see. So I do not know the extent of the damage ... Prob frozen pipes .

Also. Are there people that would come and repair for me at a decent cost? I'm in central indiana

Any advice?
 
Welcome to TFP :)

hmmm, it will probably be cheaper than a new one but it can get expensive fast if you call the repair man. It will probably cost around 100 to get someone to diagnose it and see what the problems are..

are the heater and controls working, that is usually the most expensive and hardest to get working.. if they are not you can replace the whole system for about 400 Replacement Hot Tub Control Systems Complete

use ahh-some to clean all the nasty stuff out of it once you get it working, trust me on this one :) Amazon.com: Ahh-Some Hot Tub/Jetted Bath Plumbing Kitchen
 
Can't hurt to try to salvage the tub...mine has hobbled along for a few decades now ;) The reason it keeps going is because i keep fixing the leaks ;) There are some ways you can cut down on or eliminate service cost. In your shoes, I'd try, since you've already invested in the pump and I assume the boards good.

How fast is it leaking?
If you leave the whole thing turned off, does it still leak?

If the pump and lines that are visible don't leak at all while operating, then run it for a spell to see if you can locate damp areas on ground or under shell.

Next, try Marlig's Stop Leak for hottubs. Give Er a run and see if that stopped the leak. It will fix small leaks.

If that doesn't work, and you've identified a jet area (or light) that's leaking, you can cut away the foam to confirm, then either call repair person to replace light or jet, or if its a line and you want to try to DIY use Plast-Aid, which will bond to PVC and repair.

My last major leak was a cracked light lense. I had it replaced but some would be comfortable even doing this as a DIY. Part was $44 due to odd size. Certainly cheaper than buying a new tub ;)

Hope that helps give you an approach. My repair bills stay lower by isolating the problem and about 50% of the time its a DIY fix ;)

Ps. Guillens online is usually pretty good about aging old/obsolescèd diagrams and parts available.
 
Swampwoman said:
Can't hurt to try to salvage the tub...mine has hobbled along for a few decades now ;) The reason it keeps going is because i keep fixing the leaks ;) There are some ways you can cut down on or eliminate service cost. In your shoes, I'd try, since you've already invested in the pump and I assume the boards good.


The control boards seem to be working. Unsure about the heater. I'm going to try the fix leak and hope that works. Seems worth the 15 bucks to try! Thanks again!
How fast is it leaking?
If you leave the whole thing turned off, does it still leak?

If the pump and lines that are visible don't leak at all while operating, then run it for a spell to see if you can locate damp areas on ground or under shell.

Next, try Marlig's Stop Leak for hottubs. Give Er a run and see if that stopped the leak. It will fix small leaks.

If that doesn't work, and you've identified a jet area (or light) that's leaking, you can cut away the foam to confirm, then either call repair person to replace light or jet, or if its a line and you want to try to DIY use Plast-Aid, which will bond to PVC and repair.

My last major leak was a cracked light lense. I had it replaced but some would be comfortable even doing this as a DIY. Part was $44 due to odd size. Certainly cheaper than buying a new tub ;)

Hope that helps give you an approach. My repair bills stay lower by isolating the problem and about 50% of the time its a DIY fix ;)

Ps. Guillens online is usually pretty good about aging old/obsolescèd diagrams and parts available.
Click to expand...


The control boards seem to be working. Unsure about the heater. I'm going to try the fix leak and hope that works. Seems worth the 15 bucks to try! Thanks again!

- - - Updated - - -

Ok.. update.. went out to check water level and the leak is apparently huge. Sunday the tub was 3/4 of the way full... today it's emptied out lol. Probably a drain leak at minimum right?

Will fix a leak still work?
 
that is a pretty major leak, who knows where its at, you will need to add water again and start searching for the leaks, once you find them you will need to figure out which ones you can fix.. The hunt is on :)
 
Okay, this sounds stupid but you'll be happy if I'm right: look inside the cabinet to make sure the drain tap is closed ;)

Confession: when I moved the hot tub to the house I'm in now, I kept trying to fill it all day and was certain the movers had broke a pipe. Turned out I hadn't close the drain valve ;) Hope that's true in your case too!
 
Haha I'm pretty sure it's closed :) I got all the siding off and there wasn't any water.coming.out of the spot I hook a hose to in order to drain... unless there's another drain tap that I'm unaware of which is totally possible ! I ordered some fix a leak. Working on getting into the foam as well so when it gets here I can fill it up snd see better.
 
I had some confusion. The circulation pump would be the little red one going into my Heater correct? I've got a Flo code showing up .

Also. When I try n fill my tub thru the filter spot the water comes back out. Would thst be a clogged circ pump doing that?
 

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Ok ... seemed to have found my culrput. Looks like a return drain line in the back left corner. Water was literally pouring out. Gotta figure out how to get enough space to work on it now lol

Also. Next to my flow switch is a little black pipe coming out of the area that wires are coming out of. There is a little plastic tube hooked up to the top.. well its dry rotted and fell off .. Thinkin thst is prob what's triggering my flo error code.

Anyone know what that part is?
 
if it is a 1/8 inch little hose it may be an air pressure switch, they turn the pumps on and off (and lights in my case) they do it that way so no water can damage electronic parts..
 
Ok got the bad piping cut out.. now the prob is that the foam all around thibgs is holding it so firmly that there's no ebough flex to line up my new piping and get jt into the fittings..... any advice for tight spot plumbing with no flex in the pvc?
 
Nickmyster16 said:
The little tube is coming from the ozonator . Can this be bypassed?
Click to expand...
on my last tub the nipple at the ozonator broke off, so there is no telling how long I had no ozone. My new tub doesn't even have it. With an older tub it probably doesn't work anyway. So, with all that being said, just cap it off would be my suggestion.
 
Awesome. Also. Got a Flo code . I have great water flow coming out or circ pump... I know this because I had air bubbles flying thru before I found my little air leak. Got that sealed up and it seems the little thing that is supposed to touch the switch bounces back and forth even when solid water flow is hitting it. That sound like a bad flow switch?
 
Its pretty common to get Flo codes. If I don't fill our hot tub up thru the filter area it will have an air bubble or air block in the lines. Try pushing the hose directly in to the intake area and see if you can force water in the pipes that way.
 

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