Hooked up 12VAC ColorSplash XG Pool light to 120V!! Help!

[gilmorke]

Hello,

So I bought a ColorSplash XG 12V LED pool light and was very excited to install it in my new home. I couldn't read the label on the old one I pulled out so assumed this one would be compatible. I stupidly hooked it up and the breaker immediately popped, I tried again and it didn't pop but nothing happened. I disconnected all of the wires and did a little more research. Turns out the box was a 120V hookup so I am afraid I destroyed the light. I since ordered a reducer to get the box down to 12V and am waiting for that. I opened up the light and can't tell if its ruined. I assumed I would see the whole thing exploded inside but was pleasantly surprised when it looked pretty clean and had nothing rattling in it. I wanted to post and see if anyone had any insight on if they think the light will work once I get the reducer or if I am likely going to need to replace it. I included some pictures of what the inside looks like and the only really charring I can see is on the yellow plug but its not that dark. Any advice would be appreciated as my wife wanted to kill me originally for spending this much on a pool light and now if I need a new one I am in trouble haha.

Thank you!
Kevin

 

[cowboycasey]

from the looks of it that baby is fried so sorry, I am not sure if it can be repaired... that is 12v ac

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

Maybe you got lucky and only fried the first few parts in the chain. Looks like you have a standard DC power supply built in to the board. The four devices right where the neutral comes to the board labeled D1, D2 and I assume D3 and D4 are the rectifier and then you have the can style filter caps and a voltage regulator. If you have a multi-meter you can check things out. Can you read part numbers from the diodes, the thermal switch (TSW1) and the voltage regulator (VR1)?

I've fixed many devices that took lightning surges on the AC line and often the damage stops at the regulator. If the damage stopped there, it would certainly be repairable if you can find the parts.

 

[Bama Rambler]

As JohnT said, you may get lucky. The first thing I'd do is test for continuity across the Thermal switch (TSW1). You could be real lucky and that's the only thing you damaged.