Do these numbers look good? First time testing....

Apr 6, 2016
329
Louisiana
First pool and first time testing with my new Taylor kit. My setup is a 15k gallon in ground (plaster) saltwater gunite pool. Any recommendations for the following results?

Salt: 1500 (I've added 5 bags so far to bring it back up to 3500, most current reading as of yesterday is 2350)
pH: 7.6
Chl: 3-6
Alk: 60
CYA: 40-50
CH: 170

Thanks!
 
Welcome, lets give this a look..

Ph good
CL/FC 3-6 not sure how to read this. is it a 3 or is it a 6? with a SWG your FC should be almost the same everyday.. maybe fluctuate 1
ALK good
CYA A little low for a SWG pool recommend you take it to 70
CH good


I would recommend you take the CYA up to 70 and keep you FC always above 3 and target 5
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Hope this helps :)
 
Thinking maybe it's a "3-6" because that's what it says on the K-1000 color comparator block? 3 meaning for Total Chlorine, 6 for the Total Bromine, which is irrelevant in a chlorine pool?

CajunGuy, what specific model/part number of Taylor test kit did you purchase? If it has a FAS-DPD test for free and combined chlorine (FC and CC), perform that test and report those results rather than the color match block. The FAS-DPD test uses a powder reagent in the water sample, then a dropper to turn the solution clear as the endpoint.
 
It was actually the Taylor 2005, not 2006. The chlorine color matched square said 3-6 on it for the chlorine, not sure if the 2006 is different. I have a 2006 coming in this week, so I'll run another full set of tests and report back.

- - - Updated - - -

Hey there CajunGuy :) I would suggest that you raise that calcium hardness up to about 350ppm so you don't risk leeching calcium out of your pretty gunnite pool.
I thought I remember reading something like if you have a spa you want the calcium hardness to be around 100-150?
 
I thought I remember reading something like if you have a spa you want the calcium hardness to be around 100-150?

Your spa and pool are "one" in chemistry, plumbing and mechanics, unlike my stand alone hot tub and separate fiberglass pool. Your plaster *needs* calcium, and it won't hurt your spa especially as most are also plaster when they're built together like that. Please advise us if I'm mistaken about your set up? Pictures would be nice too :)
 
Your spa and pool are "one" in chemistry, plumbing and mechanics, unlike my stand alone hot tub and separate fiberglass pool. Your plaster *needs* calcium, and it won't hurt your spa especially as most are also plaster when they're built together like that. Please advise us if I'm mistaken about your set up? Pictures would be nice too :)

Ok I was just a bit worried about raising it since there is already some calcium buildup on the tiles around the overflow of the spa and watefalls, but I'm not sure the previous owners ever even tried to get it off. It's not abundant but it is visible. Just thought that if I raise the calcium even more it may accelerate the builup? I'll try to get some pics soon.
 
To avoid that calcium build up you need to manage your CSI score. We had some build up on the tile line a few years ago, made a few tweaks to PH and TA and it has been gone ever since. Poolmath will give you a CSI score after you enter all your test results and water temp. Use the target numbers to change PH and TA to see how it impacts your CSI. Keep the CSI slightly negative, -0.1 to -0.2. It will also reduce or eliminate calcium build up in your SWG.

More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

and here
Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
 

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