Slam results

[miwitte]

hey guys just starting things up for the season wanted to make sure things are ok. I switched to the BBB method last sept after figuring out my CYA was well over 200 and had trouble controlling the pool. I did a refill and got the CYA down to 55-60 so pretty happy. Last week I was traveling and forgot to look at chlorine, wifey said pool was a little murky and sure enough chlorine was at 0. I had her add 3 jugs of 8.25 which should get it to around 11-12 that's all I had on hand. After 2 days, pool was crystal clear, but FC dropped to 7 so I figured something was using up the chlorine and figured I would SLAM it yesterday. I checked last night around 9 PM, FC was 20, CC was 0. Looked this AM and FC was 20 and CC was 0. So looks like I am good at this point, I can just let the FC drop to 7-8 correct? Or should I do another day of keeping it at 20?

My readings Sunday were
CYA: 55-60
FC: 7
CC: 0
PH: 7.8
Alk: 70( ill raise that to 100 once the SLAM is done)

Thanks to all here this works like a champ way cheaper than pool store chemicals and pool sparkles.

 

[JVTrain]

As long as your water is crystal clear, you've passed the SLAM criteria. If you catch it very early, your SLAM can be very short.

Great job catching it early and getting on top of it!

Also... why raise your TA? If your pH is stable, leave it alone. I'd only raise your TA if it dropped below 60.

 

[Richard320]

Your SLAM is done. And 70 is just fine for TA. Just maintain pH and FC as usual.

See, this is the beauty of having your own test kit. You can see what's going on and deal with it effectively, immediately, before it gets out of control.

 

[pooldv]

Nice work! +1 on letting your TA hang out around 60 if your PH is good.

 

[miwitte]

So one of things is CSI index, I notice if my TA increases it puts me closer to zero which is where you want to be correct? That's why I was going to increase to TA of 100. I learned so much last year about the evils of Chlorine pucks and CYA. My CYA was so high I couldn't really measure it even at a 4:1 dilution with distilled water. Took out a lot of water but its in a acceptable range now. Next is to get a pump for the chlorine to inject it automatically.

 

[Richard320]

So one of things is CSI index, I notice if my TA increases it puts me closer to zero which is where you want to be correct? That's why I was going to increase to TA of 100. I learned so much last year about the evils of Chlorine pucks and CYA. My CYA was so high I couldn't really measure it even at a 4:1 dilution with distilled water. Took out a lot of water but its in a acceptable range now. Next is to get a pump for the chlorine to inject it automatically.

Negative CSI won't hurt a vinyl pool. There's no plaster to dissolve.

And how do you calculate CSI anyway? I didn't see a CH reading in your test results.

 

[miwitte]

Yes CH is 200. So what is really recommended? I mean we get a range of parameters for PH and TA, my understanding is PH should be kept close to the PH of our eyes(read its 7.5) and TA will help prevent PH bounce but too high will raise PH(and irate eyes).

I think since my PH is 7.8 its should be a little lower say 7.5-7.6

 

[cowboycasey]

use MA to take your PH down to 7.4, your TA of 70 will keep your PH from raising as fast and that is a good thing.. everything looks great

 

[pooldv]

Yes CH is 200. So what is really recommended? I mean we get a range of parameters for PH and TA, my understanding is PH should be kept close to the PH of our eyes(read its 7.5) and TA will help prevent PH bounce but too high will raise PH(and irate eyes).

I think since my PH is 7.8 its should be a little lower say 7.5-7.6

PH between 7.2 and 7.8 is good, 7.5 to 7.8 is ideal. TA as low as 60 is OK as long as your PH remains stable. It is OK to let your TA settle where it wants to.