Need some advice

[jbradleysa]

I drained my pool about 3 weeks ago to get rid of excessively CYA levels, leak repair, and acid wash the plaster. Fresh water has been back in about 3 weeks. Water is nice and clear but with a mild algae bloom on walls pool floor. Pool is 35,000 gallons, Whisperflo 2 speed 1.5HP, sand filter and Polaris 360 with booster (and a Pentair Offline Chlorine Injector that is not operating (pucks sit for a long period of time before dissolving)- I think model is Rainbow 320?)

Test Results from 11:30 am this morning are as follows:

FC= 1.0ppm
TC= 1.0ppm
CC= 0ppm
PH= 7.6ppm
CH= 170ppm
TA= 260ppm
CYA= Somewhere less than 30ppm. I am using the Leslie Residential Complete Kit and I filled the test tube all the way to the top and could still see the black dot at the bottom. The top reading on the tube was 30ppm, thus, actual CYA must be somewhere less than that.

I have not adopted BBB yet, but then again, this may be a good opportunity to do so due to the fact it is new water. Thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks-

 

[Casey]

You need to get to the store and buy your pool several gallons x2 of bleach and get it in there asap! While you're there, check out the pool isle and find some stabilizer/conditioner. It's CYA. You need that to bring your CYA up as well. Read the container and add accordingly, I use a sock over the return line. Start out with 2/3 reccommended dosage so you don't go over.

Once you do that, get back online and read up on pool school.

Editing to add that you don't need to add all the bleach at once. Use the Pool Calculator and add accordingly.

 

[duraleigh]

Confirming what casey said, the lack of chlorine in your pool is causing the algae bloom and it will only get much worse unless you get in a very big dose of chlorine right now.

Using Jason's calculator, you need to get your chlorine up to around 20ppm and then get ready to add some more probably three times a day. In short you need to shock your pool with high doses of chlorine and KEEP THE CHLORINE HIGH until your water is perfectly clear and all traces of algae are gone.

Whether or not you adopt BBB, you need chlorine and lots of it.

You have some other issues but all fade in comparison to your urgent need for chlorine. We can deal with those easily when the algae is gone.

 

[Butterfly]

Yep, I agree with Casey & duraleigh. You need to shock your pool. You have probably found the article in Pool School for instructions.

Running the filter 24/7 will help and don't forget to brush your pool!

As duraleigh said, you have other issues that can wait until this is over.

About that chlorine feeder, IMHO, if it didn' cost too much to repair, I'd get it done. It can come in VERY handy for vacations! If it is cost prohibitive, you could just leave it where it is if it is not causing any problems.

When you get a moment, please list your location in your profile and your pool/equipment specs in your sig. This will help folks responding to your posts.

Welcome to the forum

 

[jbradleysa]

Quick update- I have added about 900oz of 6% slowly over the past 24 hours and have added 2 pounds of granular stabilizer in a skimmer sock and have brushed the entire pool 3 times. I have also backwashed once this morning.

My Leslie's residential kit maxes out at 5PPM for FC, so I am having to work off the baseline of 1PPM that I took yesterday against Jeff's calculator.

So- at 9:30 am:

FC= 5+
TC= 5+
PH= 7.8
CYA= still less than 30, probably less than 20
CH- 160PPM
TA- 250PPM.

Water is now cloudy but clearing fairly quickly.

How long do I need to keep the FC levels super high?

 

[PaulR]

Chlorine gets used up by both sunlight and organics. So, the way to tell if you've nailed the organics is to test FC in the evening, and again first thing in the morning (ideally before the sun hits the pool). If you lose less than 1ppm overnight, you're done; otherwise you need to keep shocking.
--paulr

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I would advise you to order a seperate FAS-DPD test like this one, to supplement your K2005 kit. It's essential for situations like yours....because it can test FC up to 50ppm. In normal situations the reagents will least you 2 years, if stored properly.

 

[randytsuch]

I 2nd the recommendation to supplement your test kit.

I actually have the full tf kit, and it's great, but you don't need the full kit.

Also, CYA takes about a week to fully absorb into your water, so wait about a week to test CYA again.

Randy

 

[jbradleysa]

OK- water nice and clear now. Looks like it is in good shape after 48+ hours of shocking levels. FC is holding.

One question- as I had previously mentioned, when my pool was emptied the plaster was acid washed. I am now seeing white when I sweep the walls and bottom. I assume this is plaster from the acid wash?

Also- I should be able to get a better reading on the CYA in a few days. The 2 lbs of granular stabilizer is in a skimmer sock.

Assuming my CYA is in the right range in a few days- what do I tackle next? the high total alkalinity?

 

[fuzzy_dba]

Also- I should be able to get a better reading on the CYA in a few days. The 2 lbs of granular stabilizer is in a skimmer sock.
Assuming my CYA is in the right range in a few days- what do I tackle next? the high total alkalinity?

First, check Jason's Pool Calculator {http://www.poolcalculator.com/}for the amount of stabilizer to add. From it, with at 35K gallon pool with CYA of even 30 to start with you need 47oz. of additional stabilizer. It'll take 5-7 days to dissolve: In the meantime your chloring is going to be used to kill the algae :lol: AND burned off by the sun . Remember, you don't want to backwash the filter for 5-7 days after the CYA is disolved or you'll just be flushing the CYA away.

The whitish dust that you are seeing when you brush is probably some dead algae (whitish-gray color?), and you have to keep brushing the pool to keep it in suspension so the sand filter can remove it. I do a combination of brushing and running my Polaris 280 for 1-2 hours a day. It uses power :x but I can spend more time with the family that way and I'm lazy!

To get the TA down, you use acid to drop the PH to a low but safe level, which also drops the TA, then aerate to rase the PH without without the increase in TA.
Terry in NC

 

[jbradleysa]

What is Next?

Threads merged for consistency by Moderator

Okay, so my water is crystal clear and warm 84 degrees now-

My test results are as follows:

FC= 7.0ppm
CC= 0
PH= 7.8
CYA= 38
TA= 260
CH= 240

Looks like I need to bring down my alkalinity (and PH)?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes, read about lowering TA in Pool School. Feel free to ask any questions after you have read the article.

 

[fuzzy_dba]

Re: What is Next?

Okay, so my water is crystal clear and warm 84 degrees now-
My test results are as follows:
FC= 7.0ppm
CC= 0
PH= 7.8
CYA= 38
TA= 260
CH= 240
Looks like I need to bring down my alkalinity (and PH)?

Yep, follow FPM's recommendations, she won't steer you wrong!