A little guidance here?

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FlDave

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Mar 18, 2015
16
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Hi all,

I've been struggling for a while with my pool but before I get to the details here are my current numbers:
(9,500 Pool, Saltwater)

TC: 4
FC: 4
Ph: 7.5
TA: 130
CYA: 50
Total Dissolved Solids: 4,900
Salt: 3.3
Phosphate: 500

We had a black algae breakout last year, we combated it our best by adding lots of bleach and brushing as much as possible.
This is our 3rd year since having the pool built but It's always seemed in the last two years I had to run my SWG at 100% to get any chlorine to show up. Mostly we would just offset it with bleach.
I did acid bath the SWG this weekend and it was packed tight with build up.

I've realized my pool had 0 CYA. Now, I'm not sure how often this should normally get added but I've added at least 7lbs every season for the past 3 years.
Friday I added 5.5lbs (using the sock method I found here. Totally awesome BTW) and it is now at 50.

The local pool store says my phosphate numbers are killing my chlorine, but from what I've read here I should be more worried about the CYA.
Is this correct or are my phosphate levels looking that bad?

Anyway my wife is anxious to fire up the pool heater but I still see specs of what appears to be black algae. I'm worried heating it this soon in the season will just allow it to grow like wild fire.

Is it time to SLAM, and what recommendations would you have?

Thanks,
FlDave


PS: We have a massive pollen issue around our pool that is simply unavoidable this time of year. I suspect that's part of my phosphate issue.
 
Dave, the first thing we need to ask is if you are ready to take care of the pool on your own? Hopefully you say yes, and get yourself either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit - either can be ordered from the TF-100 link below in my sig. The pool store testing will exhaust your checkbook, and leave you frustrated. It's also best you hit the Pool School page to brush-up on its pages and info, but here's a quick summary to reply to your concerns:
- A SWG pool should have a minimum CYA of 70. Since you were low for a while, your SWG can never keep-up with FC production against the sun.
- Phosphates are a non-player. A properly chlorinated pool will not have algae, therefore phosphates are not a factor.
- Your need to SLAM would be based on whether or not your water is clear, excess FC consumption, and your Combined Chlorine (CC) level. At this point, it may be best to perform an overnight test (OCLT). If you lose more than 1 ppm of FC in the dark hours overnight, you will want to SLAM.

To SLAM though, you need one of those test kits that contain the FAS-DPD portion for testing FC at higher levels. Hope this all makes sense to you. If you still have questions, please ask. But first & foremost, you really need your own (proper) test kit. Let us know if we can help you further.

- - - Updated - - -

I wouldn't add any more stabilizer until you know if you can pass the OCLT. If you fail, then stay lower to save on bleach required to do the SLAM.
 
One thing to remember is that being in Florida with lots of sun you need a healthy amount of CYA, especially with a SWG.

Then you also have a lot of rain which often overfills the pool and necessitates draining some. This is one way you're probably losing CYA.

At TFP it's not a matter of adding assorted chemicals at specific times of year- rather we believe in adding only that which we need, and especially not just what the pool store wants to sell us. Which means you need a reliable test kit (one of the two we trust) and you need to start routine testing.
 
To tell the truth, I have no idea what my phosphate numbers are. I've never had them tested. Keep enough chlorine in the pool and you won't get algae.

Black algae - those little black polka dots - don't really eat up Chlorine the way a murky green swamp will. It's probably UV light from the lack of CYA that's keeping the FC levels down, despite running the generator full tilt.

There really is no substitute for your own test kit. If you can take readings and deal with whatever on the spot, right now, without hauling a sample to the store and getting the hard-sell, you'll be way ahead in both water clarity and wallet thickness. Once you have test results you can trust, it should be pretty easy to get the water balanced, and then you just follow Pool School - Black Algae The water will still be safe to swim in the whole time you're treating the spots.
 
Hey, guess what, my phosphates are exactly equal to yours. In three years I've had algae exactly once when my chlorine dropped to zero. Right now my pool is crystal clear. Its the UV that is eating your chlorine allowing the algae to grow. Get a test kit. Add CYA to get up to at least 70 and keep your chlorine levels consistant with that CYA level. Use Pool Math here to make it easy.
 
Looks like a consensus... Phosphates are over rated n for the most part don't matter. FC is what's important here and you running a low CYA level.
 
Wow thanks everyone! I'm going to order the TF-100 today.

I've never trusted the pool store. I'm not saying they are..but it would be easy for them to fluff a number or two just to make sure my wallet leaves $30-$50 lighter.
I have a little more stabilizer to add but I'm actually afraid too until I test again. I'm worried that by just having it added on Friday night and into Saturday that it wasn't dispersed fully.

Thanks again! I'll get the test kit ordered and visit back here to update.
 
HI to another FL person! You will be SO glad you found us! Your pool will look better than ever with TFP!

SWEET and good job on getting a good test kit! That will save you SO much money and headache!

Let us know when it gets there. For now just brush your pool and watch the FC.

Kim
 
FlDave said:
I have a little more stabilizer to add but I'm actually afraid too until I test again. I'm worried that by just having it added on Friday night and into Saturday that it wasn't dispersed fully.
Click to expand...

That's the best way. You don't want to over-shoot and have too much. Give it a few days to get all juju and then see where ya are :cool:
 
Hey Gang!

Got the TF-100 today and unless I'm doing something wrong this is really funny:

FC: 14.5
TC: 15.5
CYA: 50 (closer to 55 actually)

At this rate I'll burn though the FC solitons pretty quickly adding 28+ drops.
Either way I'm going to test again in the morning for the Overnight FC test.

The SWG is only running at 45% for 8hrs a day the last week. Maybe I can actually back it down a little for a change? Tomorrow mornings test will tell, but what are your thoughts on these high numbers?

Thanks again!
 

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Your cya is a skosh low for having a SWG.

If you aren't dealing with algae, and just want to test but its slightly less precise: use 5 mL of pool water in the tube and each drop will be 1ppm.

BUT...since you appear to have a CC of 1, you need a SLAM if you're fighting something.

Addendum: Don't raise your CYA since you need to SLAM and it will keep your FC requirements lower.
 
Ok guys please let me know if I'm on the right track...

Pool looks the best it has since we first had it installed two years ago. Water is clear and even the black algae spots are gone.

Here is tonight's reading:
FC: 30.5
TC: 30.5
CYA: 70 (It could be closer to 80 but I have a hard time knowing what is considered a Non-visible black dot at the bottom of the tube)

Questions: Am I on the right track? Are my levels too high?

If possible I'd like to start the pool heater and get the swim season started this weekend.
Are these levels ok or should I back off the SWG during the day? It's running 8 hours at 40%.

I love this test kit and I'm super happy to have help from people like you all.
 
With CYA 80 and a SWG, your FC should never slip below 4. But since there's a history of black algae, I'd run it around 8-9 for awhile. That's well above minimum for the algae dots, but well below shock level so swimming is possible, and also low enough that you can test and adjust the pH accurately.

Shut the SWG off and let FC dwindle. When it's below 10, test and adjust pH and everything else. Then just fiddle with run time and SWG % to keep FC somewhere in the 8-9 range.
 
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