Red 'wigglies' and too much shock?

waste

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TFP Expert
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Mar 29, 2007
4,155
Coastalish 'down easter'
Hi guys :wave:

A new member pm'd me and I responded with the following

waste

Message subject: Re: Tiny little red wrigglies in Pool Sent: Fri May 01, 2009 10:22 pm
Thank you for your faith in me :-D and welcome to TFP!! You've found the right place to find out how to PROPERLY care for your pool :goodjob:

I seriously doubt you've done any harm to your pool nor equipment 8)

While I don't mind personal questions, I think it's best to put things on the forum - you'll get answers from more people (We all sometimes miss things and others may have a different way of doing things that might be more optimal in some situations :roll: ) Don't be afraid of asking questions on the forum! We all believe that NO pool question is undeserving of an answer and that NO question is 'silly' or 'dumb':-D

I'm going to copy this exchange and make a post of it on the forum so that others can add their $.02 -- If you have the question, someone else does and it'll be nice to have it in the forum's data bank 8) :-D
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ellisongirls

Message subject: Re: Tiny little red wrigglies in Pool Sent: Fri May 01, 2009 9:53 pm
After reviewing several of your posts I decided to send you a SOS message.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
We have an INtex 16 X 42 in pool. ( it came with a home we recently purchased)
Being that I know NOTHING about pools I started to google how to maintain one and came across the Intex Saltwater generator and Filter pump. It looked much easier to maintain and less money in the long run so we purchased it. It took 10 days to arrive and I placed water in the pool on day 2- running the filter pump with no chemicals. We kept the pool covered some days- the water still looked ok but we did have some calcium on top ( scaling- I think it's called). Anyway, yesterday after hooking up the new salt water generator/filter pump and adding the 95 lbs of salt I noticed these little red/orage worms- wigglying very fast around the edge! I freaked....... I called the company we purchased the pump from and they said they have never heard of them before but that we should put three bags of shock in the pool. So, I poured two bags of Shock Plus ( aquachem brand) and one bag of shock with algecide= 3 lbs of shock! Afterwards I was reading the bag and did some calculations to figure out that I should have placed 5oz of shock in the pool! OMG!! Now what do I do and is it going to hurt my new pump if I turn on the generator? I'm lost and at the point of just taking the pool down but my kids are begging me to figure this out. I haven't a clue what he next step shoudl be or what these worm things are. Thanks, DaphneSubject: Tiny little red wrigglies in Pool

waste wrote:
It's safe to swim! The little beasties aren't dangerous - I've never had one try to attack me :lol: If you are using bleach to chlorinate the pool, just add a little extra where you see them. Test numbers would help to know how soon after adding the bleach you are safe to swim - it's the free chlorine and cya that are important!

If you bump into her, say "HI" to the queen for me :lol:


If anyone can offer further help, it would certainly be appreciated :goodjob:
 
don't give up....do yourself a favor and get a good test kit (we prefer the tf100 at testkits.net). 2nd read all pool school articles on this site and finally please take advantage of the poolcalculator.com tool to help you with your dosage requirements...your kids will thank you and it's not as hard as you think...good luck and welcome to TFP...you are in good hands :wave:
 
typo...tftestkits.net....also I know the test kit may seem pricey but it WILL pay for itself...and save you from using uneccesary chemicals. The alternative is to get your water tested at the local pool store. Then post the reslts here and we will help you get everything in check...also pls don't let the pool store sell you stuff before you had a chance to post here.

ps...please do not use pool test strips...they are not accurate
 
Hi and welcome :wave: ...ditto all the above advice....Off to Pool School for you, and order yourself a good test kit. :wink:

After all of your intensive reading, if you have further questions, post them on this thread. We'll be glad to assist. :goodjob:
 
ellisongirls said:
Hello everyone. this was my post and I was having ahrd time getting it posted on the forum.. Any help with thi is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks- I'm almost done with this pool thing-

Hello and welcome,
Intex pools are very difficult to work with...but with the advice you get here you will be able to keep that pool clean. If I knew then what I know now when I had my intex...It would have been more of a joy...Like Poolmomm said...go to pool school, get a good test kit and buy your self a case of what is know here as POP! (Pool Owners Patience) Your pool will be sparkly clean and easy to take care of. most importantly for you is what size is the pump and filter on your pool...THe system that intex sells is completely underqualified in water filtering. In Short they suck. However you said you bought some new equipment, is is bigger. The regular pump just doesn't pull enough water you'd have to run 24/7 and change the little cartridge 3-4 times per week. Keep your chlorine numbers up and you should be ok...Test daily.
 
dmanb2b said:
don't give up....do yourself a favor and get a good test kit (we prefer the tf100 at testkits.net). 2nd read all pool school articles on this site and finally please take advantage of the poolcalculator.com tool to help you with your dosage requirements...your kids will thank you and it's not as hard as you think...good luck and welcome to TFP...you are in good hands :wave:


Thanks- I rarely give up on anything, however this is a little overwhelming- maybe pool school will straighten me out. Thanks
 
cubbybeave08 said:
ellisongirls said:
Hello everyone. this was my post and I was having ahrd time getting it posted on the forum.. Any help with thi is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks- I'm almost done with this pool thing-

Hello and welcome,
Intex pools are very difficult to work with...but with the advice you get here you will be able to keep that pool clean. If I knew then what I know now when I had my intex...It would have been more of a joy...Like Poolmomm said...go to pool school, get a good test kit and buy your self a case of what is know here as POP! (Pool Owners Patience) Your pool will be sparkly clean and easy to take care of. most importantly for you is what size is the pump and filter on your pool...THe system that intex sells is completely underqualified in water filtering. In Short they suck. However you said you bought some new equipment, is is bigger. The regular pump just doesn't pull enough water you'd have to run 24/7 and change the little cartridge 3-4 times per week. Keep your chlorine numbers up and you should be ok...Test daily.


I visited the pool store today and they tested my water. This was before the chlorine generator was running. I'll post my levels to kepp others opinions. The red worms- they think are from a pine tree. They said it isn't harmful but I still want them gone. Now, one more question/prolem is tehy want me to TX my pool with Muriatic Acid.......does anyone know if this stuff will harm us in the water?? Do most people use this?
 

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Properly used, muriatic acid is as gentle as mothers milk :wink: You want to have gloves and long sleeves on when handling it and avoid inhaling the fumes! Before adding any, please check with us as to how you are planning on adding it - we can provide all the info you need to properly add acid and keep from harming yourself or your pool :-D
 
waste said:
Properly used, muriatic acid is as gentle as mothers milk :wink: You want to have gloves and long sleeves on when handling it and avoid inhaling the fumes! Before adding any, please check with us as to how you are planning on adding it - we can provide all the info you need to properly add acid and keep from harming yourself or your pool :-D


Ok, I have it and I'm ready to put it in the pool. I'm trying to use the pool calculator to figure the amt I need but I'm a little lost. I was planning on adding it with a a large glass measuring bowl. Should that be ok?
 
ellisongirls said:
waste said:
Properly used, muriatic acid is as gentle as mothers milk :wink: You want to have gloves and long sleeves on when handling it and avoid inhaling the fumes! Before adding any, please check with us as to how you are planning on adding it - we can provide all the info you need to properly add acid and keep from harming yourself or your pool :-D


Ok, I have it and I'm ready to put it in the pool. I'm trying to use the pool calculator to figure the amt I need but I'm a little lost. I was planning on adding it with a a large glass measuring bowl. Should that be ok?


Here are my results prior to turning on the SWG

tot chl 10
free chl 9.9
ph 8.5
tot alkalinity 223
tot hardness 38
 
OK the pool store is right...you need to add muratic acid (MA) to get your PH down to roughly 7.6....Do yourself a favor and make note of the person you spoke to at the pool place...it is hard to come by helpful folks at most stores...except waterbear (wish he worked in a store near me).

Now for the help:

Not sure if your 16'x42" is and easy set (inflatible ring) or metal frame pool? I will stay conservative and assume it is an easy set, which holds less water...my theaory is less is more, so let's not over adjust.

A 16x42 holds roughly 3,700 gals at 80% capacity...if I plug that into the pool calc it tells me you need 23oz by volume of MA or roughly 2 and 3/4 cups, to lower your PH to 7.6.

Also your FC is a little high (probably all that shock you used), but we need to know what your CYA (stabilizer) level is to be able to say whether 10 is too high or too low.

My suggestion...adjust PH first with the 2.75 cups of ma (please wear gloves and saftey glasses...and pour slowly into the return/output stream of water while your pump is runnning)....A little tip...I usually hold my breath while pouring MA as the wind tends to shift directions everytime I use the stuff :hammer: ....let the pump run for about 30mins to 1 hr and collect another water sample and test...

Ask your pool store tech for the following info when they test:

Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chloramines (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC) - FYI....FC+CC=TC
PH
CH (Calcium Hardness)
TA (total Alkalinity)
CYA (Cyanuric acid/stabilizer)
 
You have gotten excellent advice so far!
dmanb2b said:
My suggestion...adjust PH first with the 2.75 cups of ma (please wear gloves and saftey glasses...and pour slowly into the return/output stream of water while your pump is runnning)....A little tip...I usually hold my breath while pouring MA as the wind tends to shift directions everytime
Oh yes, that's the way to do it! I also wear a doo-rag covering my nose :roll: . Don't laugh, lots of us do! We look like we could be doing a B&E for CSI :mrgreen:

Seriously, even if you don't and especially if you have any respitory problems, this is a good thing to do. Do not add chlorine and MA close together. Allow a while for one to disperse, say a couple of hours, before adding the other.

And while we are on this subject, please do not store your MA near your chlorine source/bleach. As an example, I store my bleach in the garage and my MA under the deck (outside) behind a brick pillar out of the sun. (If you have any questions on this, Waste (a/k/a Ted) can tell you a story......)

Welcome to the forum :wave:
 
Butterfly said:
You have gotten excellent advice so far!
dmanb2b said:
My suggestion...adjust PH first with the 2.75 cups of ma (please wear gloves and saftey glasses...and pour slowly into the return/output stream of water while your pump is runnning)....A little tip...I usually hold my breath while pouring MA as the wind tends to shift directions everytime
Oh yes, that's the way to do it! I also wear a doo-rag covering my nose :roll: . Don't laugh, lots of us do! We look like we could be doing a B&E for CSI :mrgreen:

Seriously, even if you don't and especially if you have any respitory problems, this is a good thing to do. Do not add chlorine and MA close together. Allow a while for one to disperse, say a couple of hours, before adding the other.

And while we are on this subject, please do not store your MA near your chlorine source/bleach. As an example, I store my bleach in the garage and my MA under the deck (outside) behind a brick pillar out of the sun. (If you have any questions on this, Waste (a/k/a Ted) can tell you a story......)

Welcome to the forum :wave:


Thanks so much!!! I see you are in Columbia, SC- My husband is from the Irmo area. All of this info is GREATLY appreciated!! IMy levels are improving!! One last question?? Will it hurt my kids if they go in the water with the levels high? GO COCKS!!!
 
dmanb2b said:
OK the pool store is right...you need to add muratic acid (MA) to get your PH down to roughly 7.6....Do yourself a favor and make note of the person you spoke to at the pool place...it is hard to come by helpful folks at most stores...except waterbear (wish he worked in a store near me).

Now for the help:

Not sure if your 16'x42" is and easy set (inflatible ring) or metal frame pool? I will stay conservative and assume it is an easy set, which holds less water...my theaory is less is more, so let's not over adjust.

A 16x42 holds roughly 3,700 gals at 80% capacity...if I plug that into the pool calc it tells me you need 23oz by volume of MA or roughly 2 and 3/4 cups, to lower your PH to 7.6.

Also your FC is a little high (probably all that shock you used), but we need to know what your CYA (stabilizer) level is to be able to say whether 10 is too high or too low.

My suggestion...adjust PH first with the 2.75 cups of ma (please wear gloves and saftey glasses...and pour slowly into the return/output stream of water while your pump is runnning)....A little tip...I usually hold my breath while pouring MA as the wind tends to shift directions everytime I use the stuff :hammer: ....let the pump run for about 30mins to 1 hr and collect another water sample and test...

Ask your pool store tech for the following info when they test:

Free Chlorine (FC)
Combined Chloramines (CC)
Total Chlorine (TC) - FYI....FC+CC=TC
PH
CH (Calcium Hardness)
TA (total Alkalinity)
CYA (Cyanuric acid/stabilizer)


Thanks so Much! I got his name when I was there! They were VERY Helpful!!I need to get the water tested agian but will have to settle with the kit I have for now- this is getting VERY EXPENSIVE for a gal that doesn't know much!!
 
Thanks- I don;t have the regular pump, we upgraded to the SWG and filter pump combo. It seems to be doing a good job. I need several more cases of POP but each day it's gettin better. My chlorine numbers are HIGH- too high total chlorine is 10 and free is 9.9. I used three cups of acid and we will see whats next. Do you knwo how long I should wait before the next step and is it ok for my kids to get in the pool? Thanks-
cubbybeave08 said:
ellisongirls said:
Hello everyone. this was my post and I was having ahrd time getting it posted on the forum.. Any help with thi is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks- I'm almost done with this pool thing-

Hello and welcome,
Intex pools are very difficult to work with...but with the advice you get here you will be able to keep that pool clean. If I knew then what I know now when I had my intex...It would have been more of a joy...Like Poolmomm said...go to pool school, get a good test kit and buy your self a case of what is know here as POP! (Pool Owners Patience) Your pool will be sparkly clean and easy to take care of. most importantly for you is what size is the pump and filter on your pool...THe system that intex sells is completely underqualified in water filtering. In Short they suck. However you said you bought some new equipment, is is bigger. The regular pump just doesn't pull enough water you'd have to run 24/7 and change the little cartridge 3-4 times per week. Keep your chlorine numbers up and you should be ok...Test daily.
 
to be safe...I would wait until you are able to get a full water analysis to get back in... with the acid...you want to wait at least 1hr for the water to circulate and the test the PH before getting in.
 
dmanb2b said:
to be safe...I would wait until you are able to get a full water analysis to get back in... with the acid...you want to wait at least 1hr for the water to circulate and the test the PH before getting in.
:goodjob: Sounds good.

So, DH is from Irmo! Small, small world. We have a Columbia address, but we are in Coldstream, very close to Irmo. :wink:

GO COCKS! :lol: Another USC fan! :lol:
 

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