Well, I did it... going salt... Any words of advice/encouragement?

[Austintatious]

I didn't really get sick of hauling jugs... but I certainly got sick of going out of my way to GO get them and also them stacking up in the garage... I have to add about 1/2 gal a day in summer to maintain good levels ( pool gets FULL SUN). I also get a bit tired of adding it every day. My levels have generally be stable enough that I have only had to check them once or twice per week... I started out doing it every day in the beginning. My water has always been CRYSTAL clear, like TOO clear... you can see every imperfection/stain on the bottom ( re plaster probably happening next winter) I hope the saltwater will be clear too, but it just cant be AS clear as it is now.

So I bit the bullet... I got a Pentair Ez touch system with built in SWG circuitry and the associated equipment... also got the screenlogic2 kit... all for right at 2000.00... the local pool store wanted 3500 just for the eztouch system!

20-25k gal pool and I got the IC40 for oversize.

Any words you seasoned SWG guys want to throw my way?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Chlorine production depends on the pump running. Be prepared to run your pump longer than you use to last year. In some areas, people run their pumps as much as 10-12hrs/day to get the FC at the correct level. The chlorine output for the IC40 is 1.4lbs/day. Use pool math to figure out what that equates to in FC production. Honestly, I would have gone with an IC60 as the economics works out better.

You will also likely get rising pH from the SWG. Find a cheap source of MA as you will be using more of it to keep your pH under control.

Depending on what your current levels are at, you will want to lower your TA and keep a close watch on your CSI. SWGs are best run with a slightly negative CSI (-0.1 is good).

Consider adding borates to help control pH.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Oh, and you'll need to raise your CYA to 70-80ppm.

 

[Richard320]

Use the search box for Diamond Day. If you have kids.

Also be aware that your pool has salt in it already, one of the leftovers from bleach. So test before you buy and add Salt.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I know you just spent a hunk of change on your new EasyTouch and SWG, but you might want to also think about getting the Intellifo VS speed pump. This would allow you to run your pump longer but reduce your overall electrical costs.

Matt knows more about pools, chemistry, and pH than I'll ever know, but my local experience with three DFW area SWG pools is not quite the same as his predictions.. Granted that we do not run any water features on a continuous basis and none of my pools have spas, but my pH stays in the 7.6 to 7.8 range for months before I have to reduce the TA and start over. Not sure why my pools would be any different, as I'm doing nothing special. I guess my point is that rapidly raising pH, because of your new SWG, may or may not be a problem.

At this point I have no known SWG issues (Knock on Wood) but when I do, I will follow Matt's suggestion and go with the larger IC60. The difference in cost is not that great over the IC40. The only thing I wish was that Pentair had some automated way to monitor the weather/temperature and automatically change the % of chlorine production, up or down, as the temperature changed. I know it would not be perfect, but it would be better than manually doing it.

Do you plan to install the EasyTouch yourself? And... you will love the ScreenLogic system...

Jim R.

 

[Saturn94]

I know you just spent a hunk of change on your new EasyTouch and SWG, but you might want to also think about getting the Intellifo VS speed pump. This would allow you to run your pump longer but reduce your overall electrical costs.

Matt know more about pools, chemistry, and pH than I'll ever know, but my local experience with three DFW area SWG pools is not quite the same as his predictions.. Granted that we do not run any water features on a continuous basis and none of my pools have spas, but my pH stays in the 7.6 to 7.8 range for months before I have to reduce the TA and start over. Not sure why my pools would be any different, as I'm doing nothing special. I guess my point is that rapidly raising pH, because of your new SWG, may or may not be a problem.

At this point I have no known SWG issues (Knock on Wood) but when I do, I will follow Matt's suggestion and go with the larger IC60. The difference in cost is not that great over the IC40. The only thing I wish was that Pentair had some automated way to monitor the weather/temperature and automatically change the % of chlorine production, up or down, as the temperature changed. I know it would not be perfect, but it would be better than manually doing it.

Do you plan to install the EasyTouch yourself? And... you will love the ScreenLogic system...

Jim R.

Same here on pH. It stays at 7.5 all season. I haven't had to add MA in over 4 years since adjusting my TA down a bit (I also use borates, btw).

 

[pooldv]

Congrats on the SWG! I love mine.

Here is everything you ever wanted to know about saltwater chemistry on one page.
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs

 

[JoyfulNoise]

There's nothing magical about pH rise and SWGs. It all depends on the input sources of alkalinity and how much aeration a pool experiences. I have moderately high TA fill water (~120ppm) and very high evaporation rates (pan data for Tucson is roughly 90" per year of water loss). I also have a natural stone waterfall and a spa with a spillway. So, if I had not reduced my TA and added borates, my pool would need acid additions daily to control pH. As it is right now, my pH is very stable from borates and proper TA control. If I kept my pool covered, I'd probably experience no pH at all.

More worrisome than pH issues, the OP has a single speed pump. A single speed pump + an SWG is a recipe for high electric bills. So Jim's advice is spot on, the OP needs to consider a pump upgrade to at least an efficient 2-speed pump where the low speed is capable generating chlorine.

 

[Austintatious]

There's nothing magical about pH rise and SWGs. It all depends on the input sources of alkalinity and how much aeration a pool experiences. I have moderately high TA fill water (~120ppm) and very high evaporation rates (pan data for Tucson is roughly 90" per year of water loss). I also have a natural stone waterfall and a spa with a spillway. So, if I had not reduced my TA and added borates, my pool would need acid additions daily to control pH. As it is right now, my pH is very stable from borates and proper TA control. If I kept my pool covered, I'd probably experience no pH at all.

More worrisome than pH issues, the OP has a single speed pump. A single speed pump + an SWG is a recipe for high electric bills. So Jim's advice is spot on, the OP needs to consider a pump upgrade to at least an efficient 2-speed pump where the low speed is capable generating chlorine.

Ohh don't worry about that... I get free electricity from 9pm till 6 am... that is when I run my equipment so it cost me nothing! I am really sticking it to TXU... paying on average 2-3 cents per KWH.

As far as the PH... yes, mine already tends to rise so I have to add MA... I will once again after the SWG install monitor my pool VERY closely and really dial in the chemistry. Should be fun!

 

[Austintatious]

Chlorine production depends on the pump running. Be prepared to run your pump longer than you use to last year. In some areas, people run their pumps as much as 10-12hrs/day to get the FC at the correct level. The chlorine output for the IC40 is 1.4lbs/day. Use pool math to figure out what that equates to in FC production.

Thank you!

If I am using pool math correctly ( does it make 1.4lbs of chlorine gas?) I should be OK. It looks like only 3.3 oz is needed to raise my FC by 1ppm.... so if I run the thing on high for 9 hours a night, I should be able to add about .6 lbs which will be approximately 3 ppm nightly... According to the calc, and last summer, that is more than the 1/2 gal a day I was adding in 10% bleach.