interpreting results, help please

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spf30

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Apr 28, 2009
188
Hanna City, IL
Just received TF 100 kit today. Very fast delivery! Here's what I have:

FC, CC, TC = no color change...remained clear...assume we have no CL at all!
ph = 7.8
T/A= 170
CH = 120
CYA = since the black dot never disappeared, I assume that means we have '0' CYA??
Temp 62

Obviously I need CL and CYA. If I get those in line, will that do anything to pH? This is where is all gets confusing. I understand it will take a week or so for the CYA to regulate itself after adding stablizer. Do I just add Cl right now and hold off on pH and TA until the Cl is situated? If I add bleach, I'm confused by the calculator as to what my goal should be? I assume now I want to shock, (or not?) but what do I put as my goal for that number??? Also, is it best to follow the recommended levels that are on the BBB site or whats posted inside TF 100 kit? They seem to be off somewhat.

Anyway, if someone could get me started I would be very grateful! Pool looks great so far...don't want to mess it up. We still have some cool rainy days ahead to buy me some time with algae.

2nd year with a 30' vinyl, above ground, 22,000 gal- using BBB system
 
Yep - no color change when you add the powder means no FC at all. Likewise, if the dot never disappears, then you have no CYA either.

Per the article in Pool School, your recommended levels are

FC : 3-7
pH : 7.6 - 7.8
TA : 70 - 90
CH : 50 - 300
CYA: 30 - 50

Go ahead and get some chlorine in the pool now. I would use Jason'sPool Calculatorto determine what you need. Since you have no CYA, you'll want to have between 1 - 3 ppm FC for now, so per the pool calc, add 137 oz of 6 % bleach to bring up your FC to 3. Next, get some CYA going so you're not having to add 137 oz of bleach each day. Per the pool calc, add 117 oz by weight of CYA. It'd probably be best to add say 70 oz first and let it dissolve, then check to see what the level is and add some more until you reach your target. It's always much easier to add some more CYA to the pool than it is to remove it if you've got it too high. You can go ahead and drop your pH down to 7.6 by adding 12 oz or so of muriatic acid. It'll probably creep up again because of your high TA, but you can address your TA after you get your FC and CYA squared away.

add the chlorine by slowly pouring it in in front of a return. Put the CYA in a stocking or sock and either hang in front of a return or put it in one of your skimmers but make sure you've got it placed to where it won't plug up the skimmer. Add the muriatic acid the same way you do the chlorine..pour it in very slowly in front of a return. Remember, MA is pretty nasty stuff, so at least wear eye protection and try to keep from inhaling the fumes if possible.
 
I would buy enough cYA (stabilizer) to get the pool to around 40ppm and put it in (Use Jason's calculator)

Simultaneously, I would add enough FC (use Jason's calculator) to reach 2-3ppm each evening after the sun is off the pool.

Around the fourth day, Test for FC in the evening and this time add only enough to the test results to get to 3ppm.

This will allow CYA to get in your pool and still keep your pool sanitized in a safe manner.

Around the 4-5th day, test for CYA and adjust accordingly to maintain 30-50ppm.

All the while, keep your pH where it is or lower it down into mid 7's if you like.....it's okay now but at the slightly high end of "OK".

Your CH and TA are fine.

What numbers on the test kit look like they are off?
 
Thought I'd posted this, but don't see it anywhere! I'm new to the whole site..so forgive me! Anyway, thank you for the replies. I will add CYA in increments, add Cl to '3' and add slight acid. But for future reference, I just stumbled upon a past post testing for CYA...saying it is best to bring cool water inside to warm before testing and mixing longer before reading results. Is this a valid suggestion? My H20 was 62 degrees when tested...
 
I tested my water a few weeks ago for CYA. The water temp was around 52 and my CYA tested 60

I tested once more a few days ago and the water temp had to be very close to 70 and my CYA tested 60.

Very, very cold water might not be as reliable but I doubt your 62 degree water was off by anything significant.
 
TA of 170 can be considered high, absolutely. Once your issue of no CYA and FC are resolved, you can focus on the TA.

If you have a water feater like a fountain, waterfall, attached spa, etc. that causes aeration, high TA like yours can be a problem. The aeration (bubbles) cause the PH to rise. Lowering the TA to 70-90 helps control this constant PH rise and need for Muratic Acid. So even if you don't have water features I mentioned, if you experience PH rising and having to add MA frequently because of it, then it is a good idea to lower the TA, following the instructions in Pool School. This will help stabilize your PH. You want to keep your PH below 7.8. Remember, never add MA and Chlorine at the same time. :wink:

For now, focus on your main issues, FC and CYA.
 
duraleigh: It seems as though the TA and CYA levels are a little off in the TF 100 kit vs the pool calculator goals. So can I assume then for a vinyl pool a combined range from both would be acceptable...as in TA ranging from 70-120 would be OK?

the kit lists TA at 90-120 while 'calculator goals are 70-90

Kit CYA levels are at 30-70 and 'calculator' goal is 30-50
 
Spf30, welcome to TFP!!

Chlorine and acid don't 'play well together' - NEVER store them next to each other :hammer: in case of a spill!

It's a generally good idea to only add chems one at a time, and let the pool circulate for a couple of hours before adding another chem - address the most important chem first (ie. chlorine or pH) and then adjust the next thing.

I can't claim to speak for either Dave nor Jason but the recommended levels are given to cover all pools, so are broad. Use Jason's calculator to 'fine tune' your pool, the calculator takes into account things like your pool surface (plaster, vinyl or fiberglass) and your chlorine source (SWCG pools require a higher level of cya (stabilizer) and work better (more trouble free) with a slightly lower TA than you could maintain if you didn't have a SWCG)

I realize that you care about your pool and want to protect your investment, but you don't have to worry about the, relatively, small differences in the recommended levels :) As you get to "know" your pool, you'll find out what the optimal chem levels are for your pool 8)

We'll be here for you every step of the way to help you get to a 'trouble free pool' :-D
 

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