Pentair Easytouch 8 and Prozone Ozonator hook up

Mar 31, 2016
9
Chattanooga, Tn
New poster here.

I have a chlorine cleaned pool (10,000 gallons) and spa (750 gallons) that have ozonators. The one on the pool is not working. The pool and spa Ozonators are on all the time because the builder just plugged it into a 110 outlet. I spoke with Prozone and they told me that the Ozonator should be wired so that it comes on when the pump comes on.

I have a Pentair 8 automated system. Can anyone help me with where I need to wire the Ozonator on the Pentair so that it starts and stops with the pump? Again, it is 110 not 220 and the Prozone guy cautioned me against wiring to the 220.

Also, are ozonators worth using on a spa or outdoor pool? We live in the Chattanooga Tn area.

Thanks for any help you can give!
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

I am not sure how to help on the wiring.

I will say that we generally do not recommend the use of UV or ozone systems for outdoor residential pools, there just is no real added benefit for the cost.
 
If both the pool and spa are outdoors in the sunlight for even more than an hour or so and your person-hours of spa time is as low as you say, then neither ozone nor UV systems are needed. You can simply chlorinate your spa and the chlorine you use will be more than sufficient to handle the sanitation.

How are you chlorinating your pool and spa?
 
If both the pool and spa are outdoors in the sunlight for even more than an hour or so and your person-hours of spa time is as low as you say, then neither ozone nor UV systems are needed. You can simply chlorinate your spa and the chlorine you use will be more than sufficient to handle the sanitation.

How are you chlorinating your pool and spa?

thanks. We have been using 1 inch tabs for the spa and 3 inch tabs for the pool. But, I just ordered a Taylor testing kit and going to look at using bleach if it is better to use. I read a post on here by someone that I bookmarked that detailed the settings. I usually keep the spa covered.
 
Yeah. You're going to want to ditch the tablets. And manual chlorination will get old fast. Did you ever consider a salt water chlorine generator?

For the spa - How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)

No, I haven't. Just paid for the other system 3 years ago. I don't believe the cost vs. benefit would work out in that short a term.

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah. You're going to want to ditch the tablets. And manual chlorination will get old fast. Did you ever consider a salt water chlorine generator?

For the spa - How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)

by the way, I had previously read that post, bookmarked it, and ordered the testing kit. When it arrives I will do as he suggests.
 

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No, I haven't. Just paid for the other system 3 years ago. I don't believe the cost vs. benefit would work out in that short a term.

- - - Updated - - -



by the way, I had previously read that post, bookmarked it, and ordered the testing kit. When it arrives I will do as he suggests.

I understand that, because you just built the pool, adding another component seems like money thrown away. If at some point you want to automate chlorine delivery, many people prefer salt.

This is a great post on the economics of SWGs -

Economics of Saltwater Chlorine Generators
 
On the wiring for a 120v system you have 3 wires. Hopefully color coded correctly, white is neutral, green is ground and the hot could be any other color other than those 2 or gray. So obviously ground doesn't change. The neutral should be ran to the neutral bar or connected to a neutral grouping either off the gfci outlet with the lights or wire nut together with other white lines. The main line that determines power on/off is the hot line. Sounds like it's wired to either terminal 1 or 3 on the relay which is power in or "line". You'll need to move that wire to terminal 2 or 4 which is power out or "load". If you can take a picture of the Ez-Touch with the cover removed it would help.

1.) determine which relay goes to the filter pumps. Put the controller in service mode and push the button to turn each filter pump. You'll notice on the underside of each relay there's a small tab that recesses once the relay is energized. That's the relay you want. If you wire the hot line from each ozone generator to the corresponding filter pump relay terminal 2 or 4 that will turn the ozone generator on when the pump comes on.

2.) Make sure to kill the breakers before touching the wiring! Double check with a multi-meter to be safe.

3.) If anything I've said doesn't match what you see please take pictures, label the wires from each ozone generator and the two filter pump relays and we'll go from there.

GL!
 
If I understand correctly, you have a single speed pump for your pool, and another single speed pump for your spa. If this is true, then they are being turned on and off by two relays in your EasyTouch I suspect that the pool pump is being controlled by the Filter/Pump relay, usually the first one in the upper left side of the cabinet. But... not always.... So, you need to open the panel and see if you can follow the wires from the pool pump circuit breaker and see which relay it goes to. Same for the Spa pump circuit breaker.

Assuming your pumps are wired for 220 Volts you should see two wires going into each relay and two wires coming out and going to your pumps. If you wire the hot lead on the Ozonator to one of the two output wires and the other lead of the Ozonators to the natural buss, you should be in business..

Or better yet, just shut them off as they are not doing you a bit of good. :p

(I need to learn how to type faster...)

Jim R.
 
On the wiring for a 120v system you have 3 wires. Hopefully color coded correctly, white is neutral, green is ground and the hot could be any other color other than those 2 or gray. So obviously ground doesn't change. The neutral should be ran to the neutral bar or connected to a neutral grouping either off the gfci outlet with the lights or wire nut together with other white lines. The main line that determines power on/off is the hot line. Sounds like it's wired to either terminal 1 or 3 on the relay which is power in or "line". You'll need to move that wire to terminal 2 or 4 which is power out or "load". If you can take a picture of the Ez-Touch with the cover removed it would help.

1.) determine which relay goes to the filter pumps. Put the controller in service mode and push the button to turn each filter pump. You'll notice on the underside of each relay there's a small tab that recesses once the relay is energized. That's the relay you want. If you wire the hot line from each ozone generator to the corresponding filter pump relay terminal 2 or 4 that will turn the ozone generator on when the pump comes on.

2.) Make sure to kill the breakers before touching the wiring! Double check with a multi-meter to be safe.

3.) If anything I've said doesn't match what you see please take pictures, label the wires from each ozone generator and the two filter pump relays and we'll go from there.

GL!

i think I get what you are saying. Right now the Ozonator has a plug into a remote outlet. I will need to cut the plug off, strip the wires and then tie the hot wire to one of the two hot wires to the spa pump in the Pentair box? I will have to look at what I have going on in the box tomorrow, and then follow your post from there.
 
If you did not want to cut the plug, you could wire up an external GFCI utility outlet to one of the relays and bolt the outlet to one of the punch-outs on the side of the ET panel. Then the outlet would only be energized when the relay is on. That way, you don't void any warranty you might have left on the ozonator.
 
If I understand correctly, you have a single speed pump for your pool, and another single speed pump for your spa. If this is true, then they are being turned on and off by two relays in your EasyTouch I suspect that the pool pump is being controlled by the Filter/Pump relay, usually the first one in the upper left side of the cabinet. But... not always.... So, you need to open the panel and see if you can follow the wires from the pool pump circuit breaker and see which relay it goes to. Same for the Spa pump circuit breaker.

Assuming your pumps are wired for 220 Volts you should see two wires going into each relay and two wires coming out and going to your pumps. If you wire the hot lead on the Ozonator to one of the two output wires and the other lead of the Ozonators to the natural buss, you should be in business..

Or better yet, just shut them off as they are not doing you a bit of good. :p

(I need to learn how to type faster...)

Jim R.

thanks. That makes sense. Can you elaborate on why the spa Ozonator isn't doing me any good. I keep reading that but no one has really helped me understand why it doesn't. The spa is covered and when we have the kids (grown) or other family here, the thing is used pretty heavily. So there are four or five weeks out of the year that see heavyweight use.

thanks for the help!
 
thanks. That makes sense. Can you elaborate on why the spa Ozonator isn't doing me any good. I keep reading that but no one has really helped me understand why it doesn't. The spa is covered and when we have the kids (grown) or other family here, the thing is used pretty heavily. So there are four or five weeks out of the year that see heavyweight use.

thanks for the help!

Ozone is only a supplemental source of oxidation. It has very limited sanitizing capability. Chlorine is both an excellent sanitizer and a very efficient oxidizer. So ozone is really unnecessary except during a period of high bather load. Even then, you don't want to run ozone into the spa while people are soaking, that would cause an inhalation hazard. You want to run ozone after people soak. Finally, ozone running all the time when no one is in the tub (no bather waste to oxidize) will cause the ozone and chlorine to neutralize one another. So ozone in a clean spa only causes excess chlorine demand.

And then there is the equipment itself. Residential ozone generators are very weak, basically toys. They barely generate significant amounts of ozone because they are under powered AND they use ambient air as the source of O2. Ambient air is only 18% O2 and it usually contains high water content (relative humidity). Water vapor severely reduces the amount of O3 generated. Given your location & high RH, I suspect your ozonator doesn't do much at all.
 
Ozone is only a supplemental source of oxidation. It has very limited sanitizing capability. Chlorine is both an excellent sanitizer and a very efficient oxidizer. So ozone is really unnecessary except during a period of high bather load. Even then, you don't want to run ozone into the spa while people are soaking, that would cause an inhalation hazard. You want to run ozone after people soak. Finally, ozone running all the time when no one is in the tub (no bather waste to oxidize) will cause the ozone and chlorine to neutralize one another. So ozone in a clean spa only causes excess chlorine demand.

And then there is the equipment itself. Residential ozone generators are very weak, basically toys. They barely generate significant amounts of ozone because they are under powered AND they use ambient air as the source of O2. Ambient air is only 18% O2 and it usually contains high water content (relative humidity). Water vapor severely reduces the amount of O3 generated. Given your location & high RH, I suspect your ozonator doesn't do much at all.


Well you just eliminated a lot of work! I think I will just disconnect them and forget about it.

- - - Updated - - -

If you did not want to cut the plug, you could wire up an external GFCI utility outlet to one of the relays and bolt the outlet to one of the punch-outs on the side of the ET panel. Then the outlet would only be energized when the relay is on. That way, you don't void any warranty you might have left on the ozonator.

thanks Matt. The ozonators are out of warranty at this point. But based upon other's posts, it may make sense to just disconnect them.
 
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