Pool pump leaking - Not sure of source

Nov 17, 2015
4
TX
This thread may be redundant and it probably is but I am having issues with my pool pump. I've rebuilt the bearings and replaced the capacitor as the those parts needed to be replaced after the motor stopped turning over. New gasket set and everything went in and the thing is still leaking. I'm not sure where or how the leak is occurring.

The current main shaft seal in there right now has been silicone sealanted into the backplate. It is still leaking. I'm not sure what else I can do at this point as all the obvious tricks have been expended. What really pisses me off is that I've spent more energy trying to repair the pool setup than actually swimming in the thing and now regret purchasing a property with a pool in the backyard.

hayward-5110-12adims.jpg
I think the housing gasket is flawed in the design. The thing doesn't sit flush at all with the groove and I've lead to believe that the leaks are originating from the housing gasket. The bottom portion is thinner than the top portion which leads me to believe that it may be the reason why it is leaking. Who knows.

The amount of water pouring out is quite a bit. If I had to measure I'd say at least 8oz per minute. There is a steady stream of runoff water. If I overtighten then the water comes out of the seal as I see it pouring into the motor.

Again, most people here say it is a seal thing but I have two seals and two back plates both of which leak. All new gaskets and everything. Not sure if I should just toss the pump or if it is a housing issue or what. It is getting pretty aggravating right now as it is now a Troubled Pool.
 
Looking at that gasket tells me everything I need to know. You sir have a Hayward super II pump and that gasket though dinky as it is does work. Usually it doesn't slip into place easy, takes some work, even some minor stretching. The thin part slips into the groove and does barely stick out. If you've done that and still have leaks then your housing is cracked where you slide the motor assy. in.

Your description is a bit confusing so I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "bottom portion and top portion". The thin part is the width and the tall part is the height. Also "pouring into the motor" confuses me as the motor bolts to the bracket which gets covered up by the seal plate. In the event of a seal failure water will leak down through a notch at the bottom of the seal plate.

Housing crack leaks appear to be leaking where the pump housing and motor assy. meet.

Don't give up!
 
You shouldn't need to silicone the seal into place. If you are getting water out from the motor side, the seal-plate gasket or flat-ring (pictured above) is not what is leaking but rather the shaft seal, or as suggested earlier seal plate, or housing is cracked. If it begins to leak worse when you tighten further, i'm afraid something is cracked. That black thermoplastic is sometimes very hard to see a crack. Take it apart, and if you have any DE, rub dry DE all over it and maybe you will be able to expose a crack. Or dunk the part in water and let it dry out. The crack will be the last thing to dry out, and you will see it that way.
 
http://www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352024663.htmI fixed it and others with the same problem might consider how they've torqued down their mounting bolts to the housing. After doing quite a bit of reading I found that others had similar issues and it came down to the same problem.

hay-101-1210_1.jpg

The six (6) brass inserts in the housing can protrude from the housing if you overtorque it. You can use this http://www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352024663.htm (sp1600tap) OR you can do what I did which is tap the inserts back into the housing.

What I ended up doing is screwing in a bolt into the insert but not all the way and then tapping it in gently with a hammer. Used a lighter to burn the brass to the housing (soldering gun can be used as well) for good measure. Let it cool and then I reassembled everything. Not a single drop of water from the matting plate between the motor and housing! Woohooo!

Now I have to go deal with an algae problem... :)

Next project is to figure out the difference between B973 and B2973 and B973T(B2973T). The former has a 11.2/5 SFA rating and the latter has 12.2/2.2 SFA. However, I highly doubt that the former will be pulling 5 real amps after factoring in the power factor and looking at the real current draw. P973 is about $100 cheaper than the P2973T (Inyopools listed at $314 or $304 with the $10 coupon as of 23APR16). I distrust the LCD console and the electronics involved with the P2973T as it is an intermediary between a single speed and a variable speed. Paying another $100 for a timer when I already have a timer for the single speed seems rather silly.

- - - Updated - - -

Looking at that gasket tells me everything I need to know. You sir have a Hayward super II pump and that gasket though dinky as it is does work. Usually it doesn't slip into place easy, takes some work, even some minor stretching. The thin part slips into the groove and does barely stick out. If you've done that and still have leaks then your housing is cracked where you slide the motor assy. in.

Your description is a bit confusing so I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "bottom portion and top portion". The thin part is the width and the tall part is the height. Also "pouring into the motor" confuses me as the motor bolts to the bracket which gets covered up by the seal plate. In the event of a seal failure water will leak down through a notch at the bottom of the seal plate.

Housing crack leaks appear to be leaking where the pump housing and motor assy. meet.

Don't give up!

This is a shaft seal leak and as the seal fails the water is pulled thru the shaft and drenches the motor. Water flows into the motor and hits the fins and the fins splash the water all around making a mess. If you haven't seen this this is a good thing because your seal works perfectly.
 
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