Creekside Pool in San Antonio, Texas

Sloany

0
Mar 29, 2016
9
San Antonio, TX
I'm new to the forum and seeking advice .... I'm married in my mid-50's with an 8 year old daughter, a solar/wind power consultant with a master's degree in mechanical engineering with a tendency to overthink things....3 years ago I bought an 1850's era frontier house that has a large pool (65'x21', about 52,000 gallons) built in 1946 out of limestone rock (lined with plaster) that was originally filled with diverted creek water, decades later some minimal pool equipment was added.

We LOVE the pool, but it is an enormous time sink. I have eased into improving it over the last 3 seasons and developed some unconventional workarounds, but am ready for major upgrades for the pool's 70th birthday.

PROBLEMS:
1) Pool Leaks (initially a colossal 5" per day but after plugging some holes now about 0.1 to 0.25"/day -- pool has some structural damage and all pool repair companies wanted to build a new pool inside this one.... we have accepted there will be some leakage.
2) Heavy organic load (lots of trees including a 20 foot tall trumpet vine on a tree trunk that hangs over the pool -- it is beautiful but does host poopy critters and a constant drop of leaves & flowers).
3) Inadequate circulation (old, undersized sand filter, 4 returns all on 1 side of pool & 2 skimmers which rarely "skim" as water level is often 12 to 18" low (as it will leak less -- we have additional water intakes near the skimmers to feed the pump and a solar robot skimmer that works pretty well). Main drain & 1 skimmer combine together on a 1.5" pvc line to pump, which often has priming issues being 2 to 5 feet above water level and occasional suction-side air leaks.
4) "Green Powder" Pool is filled with well water each spring and looks gorgeous initially (Ph tends to run 7.8 to 8.0), but by mid-summer gets "green powder" (possibly pollen, dead algae or a cocktail of different junk) that makes the water cloudy green while swimming, but will entirely settle on the bottom if undisturbed a few days)... if this was an MMA fight, the green stuff would be declared the winner every autumn 3 years running. (this green stuff passes liberally through my filter after sand gets somewhat dirty / mostly passes through my Dolphin robot cleaner / 1 micron filter bags attached at returns catch it unless the pump is running at very high speed, e.g. start-up)
5) Too much time on Maintenance - I backwash the old filter ( BakerHydro HRV-30 (500 lb of sand)) lots -- more than weekly once the green stuff shows / shock regularly (I suspect part of the green junk may be inerts from the powdered shock from Leslies which doesn't seem to dissolve well unless the Ph is lowered to 7.2-7.4 range) my in line chlorinator doesn't seem to work properly so we have 4 or 5 floaters with 2 or 3 tabs generally in the pool) / My new Hayward Multiport Valve didn't last 6 months before leaking & replaced gasket failed even quicker.
6) Flooding - perhaps once every 10 years the pool and pool equipment go under water when creek swells after big rains.

PLAN OF ATTACK:
Upgrades I've already made include: Pentair 3hp VS Intelliflow Pump, 2" ball valves on suction-side lines, robot skimmer, suction side robot & Dolphin robot, and custom flex lines with cam locks instead of a multiport valve... Next Steps:
1) Upgrade Filter. Thinking about a Pentaire Quad DE 100
2) Automate Sanitation
- Was thinking about SWG but have rejected the idea as everything is old soft limestone and pool leaks a lot into creekbed (which is usually dry) that is directly over my water well.... next was thinking about UV/metals/and hopefully reduced chlorine , but after reading this forum, plan A is now automated liquid chlorine dispenser
3) Selectively Upgrade Plumbing
. The 1.5" line from main drain & skimmer needs to be larger & I probably should punch additional returns in other walls to encourage circulation.


QUESTIONS FOR FORUM:
1) Green Powder Problem: Is there another filter better than DE Quad 100 for grabbing fine green stuff? Are there other steps to undertake other than using the robot vacs regularly to try to stay ahead of it?
2) Liquid Chlorine Dispenser Suggestions: What are good choices for large automated dispenser suitable for 52,000 gallon pool? Does anyone have suggestion for where to buy cheap/bulk liquid chlorine in San Antonio? (I usually just get unscented generic bleach at HEB when I've used it to shock)
3) Circulation/Plumbing: Are there any resources / links to advise me on return & intake placement & design for improving the circulation in the pool. The white PVC plumbing is almost entirely exposed on creekside of pool (probably for 10 years or more) should I be concerned about UV degradation of the PVC?

Thanks for any help that is forthcoming.

Sloan Pool Thumbnail.jpg
 
What a story! I would love to see bigger pics of the pool and area....You can use photo bucket to embed the pictures using the img link.

A DE filter will catch the most stuff of all of the filters BUT did you know you could add DE to your sand filter??? If you are interested I can tell you how to do it.

For the skimmers we say "down wind" so the wind can help push the stuff into the skimmer.

Returns-you say they are all on one side? CAN you put a return on the other side or end? IF you can that would be the best bet. I used ping pong balls to help me point my return (I only have one in a round pool) so it get the best circulation for my set up.

I have to tell you to get a good test kit. I wonder if the green powder if dead or dying algae or something organic? A good test kit will help you maintain your pool the best way possible. Look in my siggy for the one we use and love.

Kim
 
Welcome to the forum! Given your interest in the Liquidator for automated chlorine, I'm going to guess you've read up in pool school about the importance of the cya:FC ratio for proper sanitation, hence the avoidance of tabs, etc., but come summer and armed with a test kit (http:http://www.tfttestkits.net) we will be able to help you sort out the green menace ;) Good water chemistry can combat even the most problematic pool designs, and at this point, I'm not convinced some of your issues can't be at least ameliorated with TFP style testing, monitoring, and a few "hacks" that may not require major renovations.

You have a lot of variables to consider so I will return to this thread when I have a bit more time to absorb your complete set-up but there are a few items that caught my attention. Eg. Debris, well water, and nearby ecosystem, which are all considerations in my own pool ;)

For the debris load, I use a PoolSkim which attaches to a return. It collects debris rather handily and greatly reduces the load that gets to the floor. But with your skimmer set up, I'm unclear on viability for you, but its worth looking into so check it out (eg Amazon, search PoolSkim.)

For extra filtration beyond more "permanent" solutions there is also a filtering aid called the Slimebag (http://www.slimebag.com) -- different models avail, some that work by connecting to a return. I like the idea of this product for you as it can also help mechanically reduce metals on well water, according to reports. If your green problem is pollen, not algae, this will absolutely help you nail it, even if you only use it ad hoc.

For your water circulation and filtration, Running your robot daily is also going to help with both the circulation and filtration as well. While nothing beats another return, I am wondering if your filter needs a good deep cleaning. Typically, theres not really a lot that goes wrong with a sand filter, so i am wondering what condition is leading to the multiport failure. But the water level absolutely has to be maintained for the system to run correctly, and you mentioned that with the leaking the water has been low in the skimmer.

For this reason (eg it is possible to lose 1/4 inch a day to evaporation alone) I am wondering if plumbing an autofill feature would be practical for you. If you avoid addition due to any metals in well water, there is a greensand filter that can be added to an auto water fill feature that reduces metal loading called MetalTrap (several type, but one specifically for this purpose.)

Gotta run, but those are a few ideas/hacks I wanted to throw out there.
Cheers!
 
Welcome to the forum. :wave:

QUESTIONS FOR FORUM:
1) Green Powder Problem: Is there another filter better than DE Quad 100 for grabbing fine green stuff? Are there other steps to undertake other than using the robot vacs regularly to try to stay ahead of it?
2) Liquid Chlorine Dispenser Suggestions: What are good choices for large automated dispenser suitable for 52,000 gallon pool? Does anyone have suggestion for where to buy cheap/bulk liquid chlorine in San Antonio? (I usually just get unscented generic bleach at HEB when I've used it to shock)
3) Circulation/Plumbing: Are there any resources / links to advise me on return & intake placement & design for improving the circulation in the pool. The white PVC plumbing is almost entirely exposed on creekside of pool (probably for 10 years or more) should I be concerned about UV degradation of the PVC?

Thanks for any help that is forthcoming.



1. Green = Algae. Filtration will never remove algae from your pool........that's what chlorine is for. This is an absolutely necessary concept to grasp if you want to maintain your pool successfully.

2. That is a big pool and will take a lot of chlorine. I suggest you look at a stenner pump or a Saltwater generator.

3. UV is no problem. What is wrong with the circulation now? What I am reading is leaking issues....stopped now?

Take a look at "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You need a good grasp of the chemistry first and foremost.
 
Welcome to the forum Creekside,

I suspect the Green Powder Problem you're trying to address is simply Algae. You never completely kill it, or you dont stay properly chlorinated well enough to keep it from growing again. Filtration, or Robots will not help you if this is the problem. It must be addressed with proper Chlorination.

Liquid Chlorination can absolutely be done, but it will take a large amount to kill an Algae outbreak in that size of pool, and a good amount for normal routine use. You might want to consider Salt Water Chlorination. As for a liquid source, look for a HASA dealer down there, I can't remember if there is one in SA.

There is a load of information on this site regarding pumping requirements. If you are upgrading the filter, you need to move all the way up to a 36" system for that size pool.

As mentioned, you'll need to learn some basics, and get a proper test kit if you want to take control of this pool. I would strongly suggest a TF100 with the XL option, and speed stir, but a Taylor 2006C is an alternative. Begin with some basics in Pool School here, starting with the ABCs. You can find links in my signature for this information.

There is a lot to address here, but that's a start, and have no worries. We can help you get this well under control easier than you might imagine.
 
Sloany, another local! Outstanding. While you obviously have been challenged with some aging equipment and vegetation issues, I also believe that first & foremost you would be best served to obtain a TF-100 test kit (w/ Speed Stir). There simply is nothing better to ensure you know EXACTLY what your chemical status is at any given moment. That TF-100 will reap huge benefits. If we assume your sand filter is still serviceable, I would definitely check-out this page: Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter. But as Dave highlighted, filtration is no substitute for the TF-100 and accurate chemistry. I learned that myself a couple years ago. No one should have to backwash their filter weekly. Doing so tells me you might be battling algae and not even know it. The floaters with tabs won't work! They add stabilizer which increases CYA to an unmanageable level, and you may not even know it. I guarantee the pool store in your area won't advise you of that fact. Again - the TF-100.

With all the old tress in our area, definitely ensure you have a "skimmer sock" in the pool-side skimmer(s). I like to use a 1 gallon paint strainer net from Home Depot or Lowes. It will last me almost all season. It catches a tremendous amount of junk before getting to your filter. Until you determine which type of automated chlorination you want to do, HEB will just have to stay well-stocked on Bravo bleach for you. :) But once we know your TF-100 test results, you'll be pleasantly surprised how little bleach is required in a TFP-balanced pool.

Sloany, as a local I can relate to many of your current issues. This forum can help give you advice on equipment and technical issues, but the chemistry has to start with you and the TF-100. Put nothing else in your water right now except Bravo bleach and some muriatic acid as needed if pH rises over 7.8. Post a full set of TF-100 numbers for us and I bet you'll be amazed at what you find.

Great to have you with us. Have a great day.
 
I agree with the others get the chemistry in order first, getting the TF-100 and learning how to use it will be a big first step. As to the major equipment upgrades there are a few things you might still try if you have not done so that will have minimal cost. First off deep clean that sand filter, link provided in message above, then look at more ways to catch the chunky stuff before it gets to the filter, skimmer socks are popular here. If you are still having circulation issue due to limited number of returns, consider getting some of these before breaking out the jack hammer Infusion Pool Products - Save Time, Energy and Money with our new, easy to install Venturi Return Fitting. I added one a couple of years ago to address my deep end mixing problem and it really does enhance flow and mixing at the return.
 
Thanks for the initial replies...

I would appreciate any suggestion on specific liquid chlorine dispensers and high capacity filters.

The PoolSkim is a gadget I may consider, although I am pretty happy with my Solar Skimming robot (solar-breeze.com) and does a great job as long as the leaf load is small -- in fall its good for about 20 minutes before its full.

I have a Barracuda G3 suction vac and a Dolphin Nautilus robot. The Barracuda does a very good job of sucking up junk from the bottom (including my green powder problem) but my smallish sand filter is not up to the task of catching it all. It's really frustrating to have sucked half the pool floor clean only to see green jets coming through the returns. A problem with the Barracuda is that it loses suction when a live oak leaf gets stuck in its throat (a common occurrence) -- I prefer the Dolphin to sweep the bottom of leaves, but regardless of the screens I've used, its not very good at catching my green stuff, instead ejecting a vortex of green out of the exhaust port on the top of the unit -- I guess it catches half of what it sucks up, but then I spill about half that back into the pool when removing the unit to clean the filter elements.

I have not tried the Slimebag, but rigged up something similar -- a jig that forced my return water to flow through filter bags. I still got an unacceptable amount of green passing thru at 5 microns, but the 1 micron filter bags did a nice job, unless they got really dirty and the pump was running at high speed (or after trying to clean and reuse the bags), they do get dirty pretty quick though. With this "proof of concept" I went ahead and bought an inline filter bag canister ($380 biodiesel 1 micron filterbag kit at filterbag.com) that I will install this season and plan to use as a final polishing filter after installing a new, high capacity filter (currently intending on getting a Pentair DE Quad 100, unless this forum talks me into something else).

My sand filter is probably still OK, its just small relative to the pool size and has to be backwashed more than I'd like & doesn't catch the junk I need it to catch. It may be as old as my pool lights (HydroTech G44010) which are 32 years old per the date on the can. I am nervous with 120V gear that old, knowing my pool has been flooded, etc. so am planning to switch out with some modern Pentair GloBrites.

I do have an auto filler but my wife & I both work in renewable energy/enviro industry and have not become comfortable with constantly topping off the pool as the leak rate is higher when full & also it is somewhat easier to manage 40,000 gal than a full 52,000 gallons.

Thanks again for the responses.
 

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Cool pool and cool story!

We have lots of trees also, pics in build thread, link in sig. We run our pump (same as yours) at 1100 rpm (150 watts) 24x7 during spring and fall to skim leaves, seeds and other tree stuff before it gets a chance to sink. As you say, sometimes it is only good for 10 minutes before needing to empty skimmers. Have you looked in to having 2 or 3 skimmers installed in the pool? Your green powder is definitely algae, one SLAM will cure that problem, then you only have to maintain your chlorine/cya going forward to avoid algae in the future.

I think your best bet for a filter is the biggest sand filter you can find. A quad DE filter will get dirty too fast in your situation and cleaning it is a task. We have the biggest cartridge filter Pentair makes and last spring I had to clean it 3 times, an hour or so per cleaning, other folks typically clean their cartridge filters once per year. Backwashing a sand filter for 10 minutes would be preferable to that.

A stenner pump is the way to go for liquid chlorine dispensing. You can use any size chlorine container you want, many use 15 or 20 gallon barrels. I would go with a saltwater chlorine generator to avoid hauling lots of chlorine/bleach.
 
I think you are missing the point that several,have made, you have a chemistry problem, not a filtration problem. You can never "filter" algae out of your pool.

You need a test kit and lots of chlorine.
 
I will be getting a good test kit. Are there any viable automated ones on the market?

I strongly suspect I have not gotten my chemicals balanced in the past and have high expectations for using the BBB system this year.

It may be a month before I post any water test numbers as I have not drained & refilled my pool yet. Over winter it leaks down to perhaps 40 or 50% full. The last 2 winters I've dumped in industrial bentonite clay (=drillers mud used in oil fields) to try to help seal up my leaks. I believe it helps, although this is not a technique most pool owners would want to try.... my pool is structurally compromised (cracked & not well understood construction -- maybe there's rebar in it, but maybe not) Pool repair firms wanted $50k to $100k to rebuild it, the pool is also 70 years old and I can recognize the rock pattern in the creekbed adjoining the pool as once being a vertical sidewall of my pool. If a major flood blows up the pool again, I'll consider major renovations, but until then, we accept some leakage....

The venturi returns and skimmer socks sound like good ideas for me. Thanks.
 
I'm not sure what you mean about the kits, but if you would simply purchase one of the ones suggested, and learn to use it, much of your problem would be gone. As for "automated kits" I presume you mean electronic testing?

If so, you are looking at spending many, many hundreds of dollars for good quality test equipment that wouldn't provide you the flexibility of the ones just mentioned. What is the aversion to some simple testing and dosing? Without it, you'll never have the automated feed system operating properly nor have a way to confirm it is.
 
The PoolSkim is a gadget I may consider, although I am pretty happy with my Solar Skimming robot (solar-breeze.com) and does a great job as long as the leaf load is small -- in fall its good for about 20 minutes before its full.
-- I looked at the soar skimmer too. IME, you can get several days of the Pool Skim as the bag compresses the leaves a great deal due to flow, fwiw. In fall you might want to use both ;)

Re: renewable energy, auto water refill, etc. -- First off, if it leaks faster when full, it sounds like youve narrowed into an specific area where some leak detection is in order and that it may be related to skimmers? Obviously, if you're able, finding and fixing the leak would solve ths (notwithstanding regular evaporation). There are dies and articles to help with leak detection...see pool school.

But one way or the other, big filter or small, de or sand, the water really needs to be at the mid level line of the skimmer plate for proper pressure, pump maintenance and filter operation. Next to water chemistry, which everyone has abundantly stressed, adequate filtration and circulation are keys to a trouble free pool -- which means the water level needs to be adequate for pump and filtration performance ;)

Maybe I have misunderstood your comment about low water levels and the two skimmers, and if so, please forgive me. But I do know that the level is critical to even assessing the performance of the filter and the circulation flow.

I'm also with PoolDV on the idea that you might e just as well off with a larger sand filter as with DE, for many of the same reasons, plus one additional factor: well water.

While sand isn't nearly as fine as DE in terms of filtering, if you have trace metals in your well water and if over time you have staining issues there are additional avenues you can pursue (and products or processes to try) when you have a sand filter that you can't with DE. But that topic is something of a rabit hole for another day -- if you'd like examples and you do want to know why I think that, I'm happy to circle back to the topic at your leisure ;)
 
Structurally you appear to have some challenges. But chemically, we can nail that down for you. TFP advocates two primary test kits - the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. These test kits can easily be ordered via TFTestkits.net (make sure to ask for the speed stir!). Performing the tests is NOT difficult at all. When going to the pool store, they make it all seem like you need a degree to do all this stuff, but in all honesty you don't. These two kits test FC at much higher/accurate-required levels than ordinary off-the-shelf kits which allows you to perform your own "SLAM" (link in my sig). Of course they test all the other items as well.

Mike, regardless of the condition of your plumbing and pool shell itself, you need the water to be clear and sanitized. I would encourage you to obtain the TF-100 (ask for the speed stir and XL option to do a SLAM). It will be a small cost compared to the chemicals you may have been putting in the water before. Once the water is free of algae, we may have some ideas to help you with your other issues as well. If you still have any reservations about the test kit, what it entails, or simply want to discuss it, PM me and you can even call me if you like. I'm out at Randolph. :)
 
Thanks for all the input.... I fully appreciate the importance of getting the chemistry right going forward, which will become front & center for me in May when I refill the pool. My immediate focus for April is equipment modifications, which based on input to date should be prioritized as: (1) Liquid dispenser (2) circulation improvements (3) possibly a new filter

I'd appreciate any additional direction on:

1) Specific Liquid Dispenser for 50k gallon pool - we sometimes are gone from our property for a full week, so Liquidator seems too small, what is a good resource to spec out an appropriate Stenner pump & storage tank? Is there a thread for this or business I should contact?

2) Circulation: Should I get new skimmers? are modern ones much better than 30 year old skimmer technology ? ours have no caps or doors but rarely have water going in them (they are usually plugged off when water level is low -- we use robot skimmer & have deeper intakes to feed the pump) Enlarging some pipes & adding a return & new venturi caps is likely during April.

3) Upgrade Filter: Based on forum input I am considering putting this off another year. I am definitely going to re-plumb my equipment pad (which is slowly sliding into the creek) -- the main reason I thought it timely for a new filter. Does anyone like Pentair's Quad DE?. I've noticed that the Texas input thus far (including from my initial pool guy) favors big sand filters over big DE or cartridge filters.

Thanks.

More Pool Background: I did change sand in my filter a couple of years ago. It still works, but needs frequent backwashing. And unlike most of the pools owned by people on this forum, this 70 year old pool was not necessarily designed to be watertight -- originally it was constantly filled with creek water and had a spillway on the deep end (where now a skimmer resides). Minimal equipment has been added over the years as creek dried up -- I likely have more dead spots, organic debris and frog jism to deal with than most. It also has dark natural looking plaster with lots of patches so things like staining inside the pool are not a big concern.

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There are retrofit weir doors that you can put on our existing skimmers these can greatly improve skimming action, I added one of these last year to replace a missing weir door and it works well it is made by the same people that make the infusion venturi eyeball replacements,AQUAPower Skimmer Door - OFFICIAL SITE there are cheaper retrofit options though that are basic flapper doors, I think I bought it off Amazon, but it may have been ebay.

Ike
 

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