Stupid question about valve locations.

[Lazyman]

I see most pictures of shut off valves of AG pools, right under the skimmer with a union. That's not too bad, but why have the shut off valve there instead of near the pump? If you shut the valve off to work on or remove the pump, you will get all the water coming out from the piping from the valves down to the pump.

If you placed the valve at the pump, you will not get much water coming out when the pump is disconnected.

Should there be two valves? One at the skimmer and one at the pump? That would make more sense, right?

Then one after the pump/filter... etc...

Is there a drawing of the proper locations of this stuff, or do you just use common sense. ha! I'd ather see a drawing, because I would over-do-it if left on my own.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I have a shut off valve between the skimmer and pump and a shut off valve before the return. I don't lose that much water in between those locations....IMHO I think it's overkill to have two shutoffs between the skimmer and the pump.

 

[Lazyman]

....IMHO I think it's overkill to have two shutoffs between the skimmer and the pump.

I understand, but if you were to choose one location, why would it be at the skimmer? I would think you're more apt to be working on the pump than to be working on the skimmer. (Actually, it wouldn't help to have a valve after the skimmer to work on the skimmer)

I'm just information gathering here. Not really arguing the point, as I am new at this.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I have a Hayward 3-way valve with built in shut off, because I also have a bottom drain, so it has to be there for my situation

 

[Lazyman]

Common sense, it is! lol thanks.

 

[dmanb2b]

Lazyman...2 reasons that I can think of...1) I did not prefer to spend the extra $25 for two addtl valves and 2) having the valve before the unions allows me to remove the lines if I were to modify my plumbing set-up to alternate solar, no solar, SWG/no SWG. I can live with losing a few cups of water after disconnecting the union under the valve first

here is a pic of my temp set-up...adding swg and solar after I build the deck

http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/

 

[MikeInTN]

I don't have a valve at all between my skimmer and pump. If I've got to empty the leaf pot on the pump (which is about all the pump maintenance I do during the season), I use a winterizing plug in the skimmer. Works perfectly fine.

 

[cubbybeave08]

I don't have a valve at all between my skimmer and pump. If I've got to empty the leaf pot on the pump (which is about all the pump maintenance I do during the season), I use a winterizing plug in the skimmer. Works perfectly fine.

Mike I had same set up last year and got tired of having to do that because the plug would not stay in place until after I opened the pump cover. I intalled a valve right on the front of the pump...It is not a ball valve but a valve that has a panel that slides up and down. THis is much easier to use than a handle on the ball valve that sometimes are hard to turn...This just pulls up to open and it has a rubber sleave that keeps it from being pushed down while pump is running...I had to use it about ten times this weekend as I vacuumed out the pool from all of the maple blossoms that it had in it...It really works nice...But it is in the line that runs from the skimmer to the pump...It is just another part of the pump really.

 

[MikeInTN]

Hey Beave,
Yeah, if I had a problem w/ the plug not staying in place, I'd probably go with a valve too. I've not had a problem though with it. Who knows, I might get bored this summer and put one in just for shiggles. Heck, I may go ahead and hard-plumb everything. Playing with PVC is fun!

 

[NWMNMom]

So I am interested in more info on that "panel" valve you put in. Our ball valves ARE hard to turn, even if lubed with silicone lube at the start of the season. Where did you get it and does it stand up well to the water pressure?

I believe I am really thinking hard about hard plumbing this year due to all the problems we have had with the flex pipes blowing off or developing leaks these past few years. It is so frustrating to have to top your pool off with 2' of cold water when you just got the temp and chemicle blalance right. New valves are at the top of the list though, whether we hard plumb or not.

 

[Lazyman]

So I am interested in more info on that "panel" valve you put in. Our ball valves ARE hard to turn, even if lubed with silicone lube at the start of the season. .

Are you referring to gate valves? If so, I hear they are inferior to the ball valves. You could try the 'never lube' valves, but they are pricey.

I found the union/valve combos too late, or I would have purchased akll my valves in that style. You can take them off and lube them whever you need to do so. I also have a 'Super Lube' spray can that can be used for ball valves, or so I've been told. I'm hoping that would keep them turning nicely for the time being. Whether it needs to be done yearly, I don't know.