Twenty years with this pool and still depending on pool store. I want to change that.

[Richard320]

Thank You!! I will do that. I did purchase a bag of the Peladow which should arrive in the next week or so. I don't have any kind of stabilizer/Cyanuric acid on hand but I guess I can run down to the local pool store and pick some up this weekend, once I get a reading with my new kit. Thank you also for the suggestion on the format for the tests, I'll make sure I list the results in that manner. I also took some pictures of the condition of the plaster, but can't figure how to upload a picture. If you don't mind sharing that info. I would be very grateful.

Lowes has it cheaper than Leslies. The pool stuff is most likely hidden in a corner of the garden section. Their pool chlorine may look like a deal, but it could be leftovers from last year and it will be just expensive salt water by now. You can check the date code easily enough.

As for uploading pictures, here's a tutorial. It's easy to figure out choose file, but the upload (right under "choose file" doesn't look like a button.

 

[cbodie]

Thank you for the link to the you tube video. I went through and looked at several of the videos, so I should be prepared. for tomorrow. I do have a question regarding the chlorine/bleach. I looked in Walmart yesterday and one of the bottles said, Sodium hypochlorite 8.25% and other ingredients 91.75%. Yields 7.85% available chlorine. Is this what I should look for. I did notice most bottles read similarly and none state what the other ingredients might be. I do remember reading somewhere in these forums, not, to buy the Clorox brand, but I can't find where I read it. I have Clorox in my laundry room, should I not use that one? Thank You

 

[Richard320]

Thank you for the link to the you tube video. I went through and looked at several of the videos, so I should be prepared. for tomorrow. I do have a question regarding the chlorine/bleach. I looked in Walmart yesterday and one of the bottles said, Sodium hypochlorite 8.25% and other ingredients 91.75%. Yields 7.85% available chlorine. Is this what I should look for. I did notice most bottles read similarly and none state what the other ingredients might be. I do remember reading somewhere in these forums, not, to buy the Clorox brand, but I can't find where I read it. I have Clorox in my laundry room, should I not use that one? Thank You

Clorox is fine. It just has to be plain Clorox, none of that splashless, scented, outdoor, antibacterial, whatever adjective they use. Plain bleach. The other ingredients are salt, water, and lye; mostly water. As long as the strength is the same, there's no reason to buy the brand name stuff over the store brand. You're after the chemical, not the packaging.

 

[cbodie]

I was excited to get my kit today so I just finished taking all the measurements. Had to do the Chlorine drop test twice, I don't know what I did the first time but it didn't seem right.
Chlorine drop test.
35 x 0.5 = 17.5
added the 5 drops of R-0003 and the solution remained clear.
When I did the test for chlorine and PH with the K 1000 test kit the chlorine reading was super dark yellow and the PH at around the 8.2 mark maybe a tad higher.
CH: When I added the 3 drops of R-0011L and mixed the solution was more pink than red. To that I added the R0012 and the first test gave me a
CH of 600 (24 drops) this didn't seem right so I tried again.
CH of 475 (19 Drops)
Alkalinity: 130
CYA test was about 2 mm above the 50 ppm

The chlorine test has me puzzled though.
So there it is. I have not added any chemicals to the pool, except for the pucks that were in the floating skimmer, since last Saturday. The pool remains at a brisk 56 degrees.
Thank you

 

[Mr Bruce]

If you used a 10 ml pool sample, it is x 0.5. If you used a 25 ml sample it's x .2, which would be 7. If it is actually 17.5 the pH test is not valid.

If there were any pucks still in the pool I would take them out. CYA of 50 is just about all you'd want.

 

[cbodie]

I used the 10ml the one that says to measure chlorine. The 17.5 result was for chlorine not PH. The PH seems right at about 8.2 with the Taylor kit.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry forgot:
CC was 0

 

[Mr Bruce]

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I understood. If fc is > 10 you can't trust pH test. That's why it is adjusted before a SLAM, since you can't test during. You can let your FC drift down if the water is clear:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You should probably test pH after the FC drops to below 10 and adjust if needed. Congrats on the new test(ing)!

 

[cbodie]

The water is definitely super clear, but why would I get a CC reading of zero? When I put my results in the Pool math chart it says to add 1 gallon plus 2 cups Muriatic acid and 2 lbs 3 oz. stabilizer. You think I should jump on that right away? Or let the chlorine drop down. On top of it looks like rain likely this weekend.

 

[Richard320]

The water is definitely super clear, but why would I get a CC reading of zero? When I put my results in the Pool math chart it says to add 1 gallon plus 2 cups Muriatic acid and 2 lbs 3 oz. stabilizer. You think I should jump on that right away? Or let the chlorine drop down. On top of it looks like rain likely this weekend.

Zero CC means that FC and/or UV sunlight is eliminating it so it's not building up.

DO NOT adjust the pH right now. It is most likely not as high as you're reading and if you try to lower it, you'll end up waaaaay too low later. Check the pictures in this thread. Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?

 

[Mr Bruce]

The water is definitely super clear, but why would I get a CC reading of zero? When I put my results in the Pool math chart it says to add 1 gallon plus 2 cups Muriatic acid and 2 lbs 3 oz. stabilizer. You think I should jump on that right away? Or let the chlorine drop down. On top of it looks like rain likely this weekend.

edit: what Richard said </edit>
I wouldn't add any more stabilizer (pucks or "pure") unless you have a SWG which I don't see in your sig.
Rain doesn't do much at all, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Geebot]

I went from a lifetime free of first-hand pool experience to pool ownership a few years ago. Previous owner left his old Taylor test kit behind and I splurged on a new 2600C (wanted new reagents). Jumped onto this site and others and quickly had the confidence to do 100% of my maintenance (short of opening/closing). I live in Chicago where the pool services are limited and expensive ($125 a week to balance chemicals??)

 

[kimkats]

CC of 0 is GREAT! You want .5 or less (0) so you are great there!

Did you have fun doing the tests? My husband loves to watch me LOL

Kim

 

[cbodie]

The second picture that Richard showed me is exactly how my test looked. I thought that dark chlorine look was bad. I did remove all pucks from floater, backwashed this morning and have been brushing twice a day. The pool does look super clear. It is definitely fun doing the tests, just have to show my son so he can start taking care of the pool when I'm not here. As for my husband, he's entirely into the swimming aspect of the whole operation and very supportive of buying whatever kit I need. I'm happy with that!!

 

[cbodie]

Here's a picture of the condition of the plaster, this is pretty much how all the pool looks after 19 years. We did want to replaster this year but other things took precedence, but it also gives me the opportunity to learn how to keep the water well balanced and not repeat this error again. There are other places on the walls where there are literally chuncks that have fallen off.

- - - Updated - - -

Here is the sample of where the chunks have come off. There are at least a dozen of these around the pool wall. They also are at the level where the water is lowered during winter and where it tends to remain when it freezes.

 

[kimkats]

I like that you will have time to learn how to balance and MAINTAIN the balance for a while. That means when you do get to plaster your new plaster will last forever!

I am guessing the plaster missing is just cosmetic. Is it soft there? Does it have any give to it?

Kim

 

[cbodie]

Fortunately the plaster feels hard and when you brush it does not crumble or fall off. The pool builder did say we could hold off another year, but that he recommends to try and get it done early Spring 2017 because the pool has to be filled completely and pump running for a while, so can't be a Fall project.
I did do another chlorine drop test today, because I can't understand what the readings I'm getting mean. Today I got a result of 14.5
Consuelo

 

[kfpool]

I was pretty much in your position 3 months ago only much, much worse. Followed ALL of the advice here and now have crystal clear water. I only add about 18 oz of bleach per day anad brush some.
Once you get your test kit, take the time to understand it how to perform the tests. Read Pool School, Read Pool School again, then read it one more time for good measure. Then, you need to get familiar with the pool math calculator. This whole is as simple as measuring your water chemistry, knowing where you want everything to be, and what you need to add to get there. Trust me.... you will find that you add oa lot fewer chemicals than by following the pool store and as an added bonus you will have cleaner / clearer water. More knowledge, Less money, Less Work. Win / Win / Win.

Welcome aboard.... You will never look back.

 

[cbodie]

Thank you so much. Everyone is so encouraging. I have been reading a lot and sometimes I get overwhelmed. However, the one test that I can not wrap my head around is the Chlorine Drop test. I am sure I am doing it correctly, but the reading I get doesn't match anything. Yesterday it said 17.5, today 14.5. I'm using the TF 100 test kit. I'm using the chlorine only cylinder to the 10ml mark. The powder turns the solution pink and then the drops turn it back to clear, but it takes a lot of drops!! Yesterday it took 35 drops, then I repeated the test and it took 31 drops. Today I retested and it took 29 drops. Today I did have to add water to the pool, but I waited like 6 hours before doing the test and I also run the pump all the time. It is fun checking to see and becoming more familiar with the chemical levels in the pool. Now if the weather would cooperate so I can start the heater and start swimming!!
Consuelo

 

[MarkTX]

Thank you so much. Everyone is so encouraging. I have been reading a lot and sometimes I get overwhelmed. However, the one test that I can not wrap my head around is the Chlorine Drop test. I am sure I am doing it correctly, but the reading I get doesn't match anything. Yesterday it said 17.5, today 14.5. I'm using the TF 100 test kit. I'm using the chlorine only cylinder to the 10ml mark. The powder turns the solution pink and then the drops turn it back to clear, but it takes a lot of drops!! Yesterday it took 35 drops, then I repeated the test and it took 31 drops. Today I retested and it took 29 drops. Today I did have to add water to the pool, but I waited like 6 hours before doing the test and I also run the pump all the time. It is fun checking to see and becoming more familiar with the chemical levels in the pool. Now if the weather would cooperate so I can start the heater and start swimming!!
Consuelo

My pool is about the same size as yours, although we are a bit warmer here. Losing 3 ppm FC in a day is not uncommon. I read on TFP that I can plan on losing 4 ppm daily when its gets even warmer.

 

[bmoreswim]

Regular plaster 20 years. That's what I'm talking about.

Best of luck with your conversion to a self-maintained pool. Piece of cake once you get the hang of it.