Help with Coleman Power Steel pool

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Dogcrazy2007

Dogcrazy2007

0
Mar 12, 2016
43
Topeka Kansas
Hello all! I am new to the forum and new to owning a pool. I inherited a 16'x48' Coleman pool from a friend who overheard me talking about buying one. He had it set up for a summer, filled it a bit and never used it. The pool is in decent shape. I set it up last week to get a good look at it and clean it up, then I took it down and put in in the garage. I need to patch a couple holes from where his dog tried to eat it (after it ate the cover!). I also had to order some replacement parts that were missing from the Bestway Company. I had to order a few of the feet and a new drain valve cap today, so I'm hoping they get here soon! I'm a bit nervous about receiving the correct parts from them because there was a language barrier on their end...

Last weekend, my husband and his dad used a sod cutter to get rid of the grass and then built a wooden frame out of treated 2x4's where the dirt will go and be leveled (my back yard isn't very level so we'll have to build up an area). After the dirt is leveled, we will put a tarp down, then a layer of 1 1/2" insulation foam (taped together with gorilla tape), and then topped with another tarp. This seems to be the best idea I've read online about leveling the pool and having a soft bottom for our feet.

The pool came with the standard filter, which I've read is junk. I'm sure I'll replace it eventually, but I want to try it out. I don't want to buy an expensive filter just to find out that maintaining a pool isn't for me. If I do upgrade, I plan on getting the sand filter for Intex pools (I've read that the fittings are the same size for Coleman pools).

My questions:
1. Just incase the drain valve cap doesn't actually ship, does anyone know if Coleman and Intex pools have the same size drain fittings? I can't fill the pool without the cap!
2. Which is cheapest, salt water or chlorinated tap water? If I do decide to use salt water, can the standard filter be used with it? If I do upgrade, do I need a sand filter AND the saltwater filter?
3. I have a footbath, surface skimmer, floor vacuum, thermometer and some cool toys. I plan on buying a cover after I get my replacement parts sent. Any other equipment suggestions?
4. I live in Kansas. Right now, the weather is all over the place. I had planned on setting up the pool and filling it in April, assuming the temp stays above 50 degrees over night. Is that alright or should I aim for a different temp?
5. I am going to have an electrician come out and install an outlet for the pool... really dumb question, but what exactly is this outlet called? I'm looking to do one of those stand alone outlets that are driven into the ground. After that is installed, I will put down some pavers, sit the filter on top and then build a protective wooden box around them to keep them out of the weather.

I plan on reading about pool chemistry before I set up and fill the pool, so I'll grab all the chemicals then and have them ready to go.

Thanks in advance for the help, hopefully my questions aren't too noobish.
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Woo, lots of questions. :) So I'll get right to it:
1. To my knowledge, most Intex and Coleman product fitting are interchangeable. I hope the drain valve is the same. :)
2. Let's re-cap the difference: Salt water, meaning a Salt Water Generator (SWG), uses salt in the water to create Free Chlorine (FC) which is your sanitizer. For those who do not use a SWG, they simply use regular household bleach (added manually) to sanitize the water. But pools are initially filled with the same water you have coming to your house, unless someone has a truck deliver fresh (soft) water. The difference is how you chose to sanitize.
3. What to buy? The sky's the limit.
4. Mild winter for many this year. You could probably start set-up and fill any time. But the warmer the water gets (over 60 degrees) the more active and awake algae can become which means you need to be ready to keep the water sanitized once you fill. You'll also want to RIGHT test kit (i.e. TF-100) as soon as possible (see my signature below).
5. Others may confirm, but I believe most pool circuits are on a dedicated 20 amp circuit with a GFCI breaker. Your electrician should know what to do for that. I would recommend an extra outlet near your pool while you're at it for convenience and other things like maybe a power cleaner later, or portable products (i.e. stereo, lighting).

Hope that helps get you started. I'm sure more replies will follow.
 
SO glad to you found us here at TFP!

Pat has you covered on the answers to your questions for this go around. PLEASE make sure to ask any and all questions you might think of no matter how small. Better to ask and know than to not ask and make a mistake

Kim
 
A couple of points.

You mention that you are going to fill a portion of your yard to construct the pool. I suspect that that directly contradicts the pool installation instructions which generally prohibit construction of above ground pools on fill or recommend against it. I strongly suggest if you are going to use fill that you carefully clear the area of vegetation and then bring the area up to grade by placing soil in the area in 3 or 4 inch lifts wetting down and compacting between lifts with a mechanical compactor. Additionally the compacted area should extend 2 to 3 feet beyond the pool structure. What you don't want is a sag in the pool after you fill with water.

As to your electrical question the temporary stake mounted outlet probably won't work. It can be post mounted but it will have to be more permanent. Anyway it must be GFCI protected and at least six feet from the pool and there must be a means of switching off the power to the equipment. Your pump probably requires a 20amp outlet. The pool and all the equipment must be bonded together with solid copper wire at least 8 gauge. You electrician will understand all that. I also agree a separate utility or convenience outlet nearby is very handy. It too must be at least 6 feet from the pool (actually I think the rule is 5 but I say six to keep it consistent).
 
We've allotted a 19'x19' area for the pool. I'm not sure of the difference from one end to the other, but I think I heard my husband say the low end is 5" lower than the high end. We planned on having a dump truck deliver black soil, we were going to fill the area we made and use a sod roller and tampers to compact the area, wetting it as we go along. I saw several people do it this while doing my research. Is this not the correct way?

- - - Updated - - -

The only thing I saw in the instructions was to not use sand to level the ground. Essentially, we are using dirt to create a flat, level ground. How is that any different than actually having level ground?

- - - Updated - - -

So with salt and bleach, do I use the same additional chemicals? What are the benefits of each?
 
One of the differences between salt (SWG) and bleach is the upfront cost. People who purchase a SWG will have to pay for the SWG itself. The price varies on the type/size of SWG, but many love them because they believe the salt in the water feels better on their skin and/or for the automated chlorination. The SWG is set/adjusted to convert salt into chlorine so you don't have to manually add it. Bleach is easy for many as well. Once a pool is balanced, a small amount of bleach is added each day to keep the FC at its proper level. It's a personal choice with pros & cons either way. If you're not sure, you can stick to the basics (manually adding bleach) until you get the pool established. Once you're in a rhythm, you can later determine if you feel like upgrading to an SWG.

As for ground... well.... some will try to "pack and level" a bit, but there's a bit of a risk there because "raised" ground will almost never be as solid as ground that has been cut-down (lowered) for leveling. There are AGP owners who have tried both and done okay, but I suspect that most would agree that if you remove the high spots for leveling, it will be more stable under all the weight than trying to build a new (unnatural) height. Does that make sense?
 
DobermanOwner said:
The pool came with the standard filter, which I've read is junk. I'm sure I'll replace it eventually, but I want to try it out. I don't want to buy an expensive filter just to find out that maintaining a pool isn't for me. If I do upgrade, I plan on getting the sand filter for Intex pools (I've read that the fittings are the same size for Coleman pools).
Click to expand...

I put this pool up last summer and it is a nice pool. The filter pump on it worked fine and I did use it to also vacuum the pool.

Larry
 
I'll have my husband re evaluate the ground work this weekend. I'm sure he will be able to dig down the high side. If anything, the wooden frame he built can be used to hold the insulation in place...

The drain cap and footing pieces came today, and to my surprise, they are all the correct size! I wasn't expecting much from Bestway since all of their customer reviews are terrible. Tomorrow, I'm off to get a cover and some patches. I know I asked in my first post, but what are other necessary items I need (aside from chemicals)?
 
AOfge7.jpg


This is what I hope my pool will look like when it's set up.

Do I need to put pavers under the feet of I'm using foam insulation or will it stand up to the pressure from them?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Alright, we re-did the ground work and dug everything down. We then rented a sod roller and flattened and leveled everything. We also rented a survey tool to ensure everything was perfectly level. This weekend, we plan on finally getting the thing up. I'm confused on how I should install the pavers for the legs. I bought a large tarp that will cover the ground, then fold back over the top of the foam boards. It was cheaper than buying two tarps for whatever reason... Can I just put the pavers on top of the tarps/foam or will that cause the legs to be up too high? When I set the pool up to inspect it, the legs wouldn't stay put as I tucked them into the piece of fabric and the rope on the outside. I'm afraid if I cut into the foam and put the pavers in while the pool is still dry, as I go to fill it, the pool will expand and settle, moving the legs outward and off the pavers.... Any advice?
 
I saw that, it doesn't really tell me much about how to start the pool. I just found the temporary pool start up guide... I see that it says all I need is chlorine and CYA. I'm assuming I'll need something to adjust the pH as well, because I'm sure it won't be perfect from the tap. So I just fill it full of water, test with a chlorine test kit and a CYA test kit and dump the chemicals in? How much chlorine will I need to have on hand when starting the pool?

- - - Updated - - -

Also, when and for how long should I run the filter? Sorry for all the questions...
 
Yes, fill the pool, test the water and make appropriate adjustments using Poolmath to calculate how much of what chemicals to add to achieve the target level.

Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals to make adjustments to your chemistry, what they are and how to add them.
Chlorine level is set based on your CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart, always keep it at target and never let it drop below minimum or your pool will be unsanitary and algae will grow. You probably want to set your CYA level at 30 ppm for your climate.
And here is how to use PoolMath to calculate the dose for your pool.

Most folks start out running the filter 4-6 hours per day. If the pool stays clean you can run it less, if not, increase run time by an hour until it stays clean, Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
 
DobermanOwner said:
Alright, we re-did the ground work and dug everything down. We then rented a sod roller and flattened and leveled everything. We also rented a survey tool to ensure everything was perfectly level. This weekend, we plan on finally getting the thing up. I'm confused on how I should install the pavers for the legs. I bought a large tarp that will cover the ground, then fold back over the top of the foam boards. It was cheaper than buying two tarps for whatever reason... Can I just put the pavers on top of the tarps/foam or will that cause the legs to be up too high? When I set the pool up to inspect it, the legs wouldn't stay put as I tucked them into the piece of fabric and the rope on the outside. I'm afraid if I cut into the foam and put the pavers in while the pool is still dry, as I go to fill it, the pool will expand and settle, moving the legs outward and off the pavers.... Any advice?
Click to expand...


I dug down and put the paver level with the ground. I did not use the foam board, however. I used crusher rock, a little sand, and a Gorilla pad. I leveled each paver with a transit, some use a water level. You don't want the paver to rub on the liner. Not sure if the foam insulation compacts slightly under the weight of the water or not. I did adjust my placement to allow room for the legs to kick out a bit, as this was my second ultraframe pool. They move forward just a couple of inches as it fills. A link to my build is in my signature.

Here is the only picture I had of the pavers, but it gives you an idea of what I meant.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply