calibrating an Aqua Rite

"How to Recalibrate?


Move the switch to the Auto position. If the switch is already in the Auto or Super Chlorinate position, move it to Off then back to Auto.
Wait for the relay to click, then push the diagnostics button 5 times to the instant salt level with the minus sign in front.
Wait for the instant salt level to stop moving lower, make sure it is within the range of 2700-3400, then move the switch up to Super Chlorinate then back down to Auto. This saves the instant salt level reading as the new default which, in effect, recalibrates the unit to be able to run normally and chlorinate the pool. "

Hope this helps.
 
ok i have the same issue's On my auqarite the instant salt reading is consistantly lower than the test strips say. Like 500ppm lower. I have tried this rest/ cal method, but the unit still reads lower than actual. I have a new cell and flow switch installed this year so I know it's not the sensor or cell. any resolusion on this issue or just live with it and check salt by strips instead?

for instance, checked today

aquarite instant = 3200
salt test strips = 3730

is there a trim port that can be adjusted to calibrate the unit instead?
 
Or if your water temperature is still cold (below 65 degrees), the unit will give you a false low salt reading. Rely on your test result and do not oversalt your system. With the Aquarite, oversalting your pool will require you to drain/dilute, refill and rebalance the water.
When you run your test, are you able to get the Cell Amps and Volts? These figures reveal quite a bit of your operating conditions. Hayward should be able to provide the normal operating amps and volts.
 
Poolsean said:
Or if your water temperature is still cold (below 65 degrees), the unit will give you a false low salt reading. Rely on your test result and do not oversalt your system. With the Aquarite, oversalting your pool will require you to drain/dilute, refill and rebalance the water.
When you run your test, are you able to get the Cell Amps and Volts? These figures reveal quite a bit of your operating conditions. Hayward should be able to provide the normal operating amps and volts.

Or a member here with the "Field Service Manual" (I'm looking at mine right now) :wink: :)


BTW - Sean, how are the pups? Good to see you again! :-D
 
The so called "Calibration" for Goldline units is not really a calibration at all. The only thing is does is replace the average salt level with the instaneous salt level. Nothing more.

The salt level reading in these units is based upon the volts, amps and temperature readings. This is basically the same way a TDS meter works. It measure the conductivity of the water and then infers the salt level based upon a formula. So if fact, you are really measuring TDS and not salt level which is one of the reasons why the units tend not to be too accurate for salt levels depending on the other solids in the water.

Also, they want to make sure there is enough salt in the water so I believe that they put an offset in the reading to account for other dissolved solids which is why the unit usually reads on the low side if you happen to have low dissolved solids other than salt.
 
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