Paramount Clear O3 Ozonator wont start back up

Jan 2, 2015
7
Round Rock, TX
Hello,
We had a build up of CYA and drained and refilled 70% of our pool water. We restarted our pump (Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed, Pentair Quad D.E. Filter) Came on fine.
But our Ozonator Paramount Clear O3 is not producing bubbles. The power to the unit is on, the light is on. Worked fine before. Have turned the needle adjustment all the way up and no bubbles still.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your help,
 
The only idea I have is to disconnect it to save money on electricity since ozone is of little use in residential pools. Maintaining adequate chlorine is the key.

Hopefully someone else can help, although very few members have experience with these.
 
I would confirm that the hose that runs from the pump to the O3 unit is clear of any obstructions including kinks. When you brought the pump back online, did it have the same speed programmed as before the drain? Or did it get adjusted? Lower pumps speeds require readjustment of the control or needle valve, or a raising of the pump speed. You may need to "clear" the hose and valve of water by momentarily fully opening the valve to clear, then back to the original setting while the pump is running.

Ozone is an alternative, but not a total replacement for chlorine. One drawback is that the Ozone is beneficial only during its production/introduction into the water. IOW it only works (does its sanitizing) when the unit and filter pump is on. So proper use of this system may require the pump to run longer times. Some of the older designed systems used an air stone like the type used in aquariums (only on a lager scale), to diffuse the ozone gas, and also ran independently from the filter pump, making 24/7 application possible. One main advantage to Ozone is that it allows you to be able to run a lower level of chlorine and achieve the same level of sanitizing.

Ozone is useful for people who have allergies to the higher levels of chlorine used to maintain the proper level of sanitizing, or for those that are interested in lowering or limiting their use of chlorine (in the environment).
 
Pool Clown, thanks for the excellent description on the Ozone system. We are including for the exact reasons you stated. A SWG wasn't an option due to all the stone work we have, we didn't want to take the chance but our kids have sensitive skin so it is imperative that we are able to use as little chlorine as possible, even if it cost more to run.
 
Since you had a build up of CYA, that may mean you aren't going by the TFP recommended pool care process (I didn't check your history here)

Have your kids ever swam in a pool that had the proper FC level according to the CYA/FC chart? Seems a lot of kids have friends' pools or public pools growing up, and a harsh reaction there seems to plant that seed. OTOH, some people are very sensitive. But whether your pool is at the minimum recommended level, or below it with ozone running, is not a major difference in active chlorine levels. around 99% of chlorine is bound to the stabilizer. So going from a FC of 4 to a FC or 3 is not really a 25% reduction in chlorine levels.

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
I have yet to encounter anyone on the forum who is actually sensitive to the proper levels of chlorine (as a function of your CYA level) ... many think they are, but in reality, having too little chlorine resulting in high chloramines is much more irritating and is likely what they have experiences in improperly maintained (likely public) pools.
 
agreed. assuming you have one of the recommended test kits and can get a good cya reading (not a pool store reading) I think it would behoove you to spend the first 2-3 weeks of the swim season running your pool at the recommended FC level for your CYA level, using liquid chlorine/bleach to keep the FC above the minimum each day.

If your FC, CYA and pH are all in the recommended range, and your kids are still irritated, then go ahead and get your O3 fixed and run low.
 
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