We had a new gunite pool built last August to replace our worn above ground. We had a mild winter and I continued to check levels throughout, nervous about the marcite finish and the need to add acid. Before the snow came I added acid and circulated with a small sump pump. Now that the weather has warmed again I tested and the ph and it is through the roof, after a few days and 2 gallons of muriatic acid no real change. Am I doing the right thing or am just wasting my money. Worried about scaling. All other levels seem fine.
Ph level extremely high
- Thread starter rmcconkey
- Start date
We actually need to see a full set of test results: FC, CC, pH, CH, TA, CYA performed on a reputable test kit. We don't trust pool store tests (they always seem to find a problem that they can sell you the cure for) and we don't trust strips.
Can you give us this and we'll see if we can help you figure this out.
Can you give us this and we'll see if we can help you figure this out.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,783
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
YippySkippy is right, we need to know all the test levels and how you are getting them. Pool stores are notoriously wrong. If you are using a recommended test kit, please tell us and we can move quickly towards helping you. If you are using test strips or especially a pool store, then we are going to recommend you get a good test kit quickly so we can help you get the pool in shape for swim season.
At this point I am using test strips. I know stupid. Pool is not up an running yet probably not for a month and I have been shopping for a real test kit for this season. We closed the new pool shortly after it was built. I will pick up a real test kit this week. It used a large amount of acid when it was open. I'm just afraid I am that far behind.
We only trust 2 test kits- the TF-100 available from TFTestkits.net or the Taylor's K-2006 also available at TFTestkits.net or sometimes locally. The important part is to get a test with the FAS-DPD chlorine test. It can test up to 50 ppm FC as well as test for icky Chloramines (CCs). Other kits do not provide this. I use the TF-100 and its use has saved me gobs of money because it tells me what I need and what I *don't* need in my pool. A pool store always seems to want to sell you something, hence their testing is suspect and often outright inaccurate.
The test kits use a color scale for PH (kinda like the test strips), so typically you will just know that its over 8.2+, but not how over. Sadly, you just have to add acid a bit at a time (use pool calculator to find out how much acid it takes to go from 8.2 to 7.8 and use that much each dose so you don't bring it down too far.) Make sure to give the pool enough time with the pump running before taking a reading after adding acid. I think the rule of thumb is 30 minutes, but I would wait an hour. I would wait until you get the full test kit before adding any more though.
Another thing to note: I know that my local home stores stopped selling the full strength acid, and now only sell the half strength (at the same price of course), so make sure you put the right percentage acid from the bottle into the calculator.
Another thing to note: I know that my local home stores stopped selling the full strength acid, and now only sell the half strength (at the same price of course), so make sure you put the right percentage acid from the bottle into the calculator.