I love the PoolMath Calculator as well. The only thing I really struggle with in being new to this is which level to adjust first and how long to wait in between adding different chemicals. Anywhere on here I might find that?
PoolMath, and Where to start?
- Thread starter J_Wright
- Start date
Welcome to TFP,
The best place to start is with the ABCs in Pool School, and working your way through the other basics there. For specific help from the forum, can you post some test numbers for us to look at and offer some advice?
The best place to start is with the ABCs in Pool School, and working your way through the other basics there. For specific help from the forum, can you post some test numbers for us to look at and offer some advice?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,726
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
After you've hit those pages, if you still have questions, please let us know. It can seem overwhelming at first, but once you're past the initial info, you'll be surprised how easy TFP care really is.
After you've hit those pages, if you still have questions, please let us know. It can seem overwhelming at first, but once you're past the initial info, you'll be surprised how easy TFP care really is.
Welcome!
What you work on first depends on your readings. If you have astronomical CH or CYA readings that would indicate a partial drain is in order, deal with the drain first. There's no point in treating water you're just going to dump out anyway.
If those numbers are low to normal, then typically you adjust pH first because bleach works better at the proper pH and if you're looking at a SLAM to kill algae, you won't be able to test pH for a while due to high FC interference.
Best bet is to post the results, as Patrick stated above, and someone will be along to advise you. It'll make more sense once you start doing and testing and seeing results.
What you work on first depends on your readings. If you have astronomical CH or CYA readings that would indicate a partial drain is in order, deal with the drain first. There's no point in treating water you're just going to dump out anyway.
If those numbers are low to normal, then typically you adjust pH first because bleach works better at the proper pH and if you're looking at a SLAM to kill algae, you won't be able to test pH for a while due to high FC interference.
Best bet is to post the results, as Patrick stated above, and someone will be along to advise you. It'll make more sense once you start doing and testing and seeing results.
I have actually spent a lot of the last two days reading through everything on Pool School. I do not have any of the recommended test kits yet. Honestly not certain exactly which one I have. Its leftover from last year. But not strips. We had this pool last year with the pump it came with which is pretty much useless and the pool turned into a green mess. At any rate, we drained the pool and cleaned it a few days ago and refilled it. We also added a new pump and the saltwater system. We have added the recommended amount of salt but that is it so far. The readings I have right now are: CYA - 0, FC - 0, PH - 8.2, TA - 132. Not sure which one to tackle first and the timing of it all.
Get some bleach in it. Then go look at your test kit or take and share a picture of it.
Where did you store the test kit?
Kim
Where did you store the test kit?
Kim
If you let it sit like that you will have algae in no time. You should get chlorine in as soon as possible; the SWG is good for maintaining, but not quickly getting up to proper levels. For that reason I'd suggest using liquid stabilizer to get your CYA level up to 30 to start off. There are some products that combine CYA and chlorine (like shock products) but that can get tricky, so just go separate.
Liquid stabilizer is more expensive, but if you wait for granules to dissolve over a day or two, you will have to wait to get the chlorine to hold in the pool, and you risk algae.
So IMO: Use pool math to add the proper amounts of:
Liquid stabilizer - to get from 0 to 30
liquid chlorine (bleach) to get the FC level up to 4.
acid to get your pH in the mid 7s.
You will need to get a recommended test kit, and from there start getting your CYA level up to the 60s or 70s, and dial in your SWG to keep the proper level of FC in the pool.
Everything is covered in Pool School and Pool Math, tabs at the top of any page.
edit: I would spend a few days at a CYA of 30 and a FC of 4, to make sure you don't have an algae bloom, before adding the rest of the CYA to get up to 60 or so. Killing the algae is much less laborious at that lower CYA level.
Liquid stabilizer is more expensive, but if you wait for granules to dissolve over a day or two, you will have to wait to get the chlorine to hold in the pool, and you risk algae.
So IMO: Use pool math to add the proper amounts of:
Liquid stabilizer - to get from 0 to 30
liquid chlorine (bleach) to get the FC level up to 4.
acid to get your pH in the mid 7s.
You will need to get a recommended test kit, and from there start getting your CYA level up to the 60s or 70s, and dial in your SWG to keep the proper level of FC in the pool.
Everything is covered in Pool School and Pool Math, tabs at the top of any page.
edit: I would spend a few days at a CYA of 30 and a FC of 4, to make sure you don't have an algae bloom, before adding the rest of the CYA to get up to 60 or so. Killing the algae is much less laborious at that lower CYA level.
Thank you for the helpful information! I have read through all of that but was unsure of what exactly to tackle first. Let me see where I can get with all of this. At least we have more daylight hours to mess with it when I get off of work in the evenings now
you can certainly use the less expensive granular CYA to get from the 30 range up to the higher number recommended for SWG. No need to buy way more liquid stabilizer than you'll need at this point. Getting ANY in the pool right now is most important.