Newbie using the TF100

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

mastiffs08

0
May 31, 2008
56
Southern Connecticut
I used the test kit for the first time today. We took the cover off on sunday and the water was clear, some cloudiness. Yesterday we hooked up the filter and pump. Also filled the water to the correct level and cloudiness disappeared. Today we fixed all the leaks we had and had to get a new motor because the yr old one was shot. Ran the pump for about 2 hrs before testing.

These are the results:
I was not able to test FC and CC because the liquid never turned pink. When I used the taylor test it said .5 so I know I have to shock the pool so I'm going to put a gallon in. I have left over shock from last yr.
pH 7.2
T/A 90
CH 300
CYA 90
Temp 58

Besides shock what else should I add?
 
Your numbers are ok, except the CYA is a bit high. See the chart and make sure you keep your FC at the recommended levels. IF you allow the FC to go below the minimum you risk algae, and your pool won't be properly sanitized.

The solution didn't turn pink because the FC was zero.

FYI, that "shock" probably lost it's strength...So you'll probably want to get some fresh chlorine. :wink:

Hope this helps :wave:
 
ok that was helpful. I'm not going to go to the pool store to get shock because I've read here to use bleach. I have a 1.42 gal bottle of clorox bleach (chlorine yield 5.7%) how much of that would I use? I don't know how many gallons the pool is. I have 18' round 54". I read today that it's 8,300 gallons but I'm not sure if that is right.
 
I get 8,600 gallons.

Your shock level is 23, so that's 410 oz of 6% bleach. How many oz is that bottle you have? Your gonna probably need 4, to start with.

Shop around for the best prices. Amazingly sometimes the pool store's liquid chlorine either 10-12.5% (sometimes called Pool Shock) can be the cheapest. You have to compare the strength, size of jug and price. Bleach is liquid chlorine, just a lesser concentration (6%) otherwise they are the same thing, sodium hypochlorite.
 
I have shocked my pool to go on vacation, and I have left the solar cover on, and experienced no problems. But since we aren't sure what your CC levels are, you should probably leave it off, as sunlight helps breakdown CCs. Once you shock you may see CC's appear.

Under normal conditions with balanced water you can leave it on, and yes you should be able to leave it on with the filter running. I leave my cover on whenever the pool is not in use and I run my 2speed pump on low 24/7. With your pump, you may see the cover turning with the circulation. If you are concerned it might get sucked into the skimmer, I've not heard of that.
 
So I told my husband about the 4 bottles of bleach and instead he put in 4 gallons of liquid shock that he went out and bought at the store today. I was at work and was flipping out.

So I came home from work and tested the water:
FC 30
CC .5
TC 30.5
pH 8.2
T/A 120
CH 300
CYA 70 (I know I did this test wrong yesterday)
Temp 62

The shock got put in around 11 am and filter ran for 9 hours. The water is still clear and you can smell the chlorine near the pool. Kind of reminds me of an indoor pool in a hotel.
 
:hammer:

Don't let him make that mistake again, he could cause the liner to fade.

Tonight after sunset, test the FC again, then test first thing in the morning. Compare the two results and if your FC holds (you lose 1ppm or less) then you can allow the FC to drop to normal level for your CYA. That smell is the CC's - chloramines that form - which the high FC should rid from your pool. A couple days you shouldn't smell anything.

Ignore the high PH - high FC levels make that result not accurate. Wait until the FC is below 10 before you test it again.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
mastiffs08 said:
I tested last night and FC was still 30 this am it was 29. So do I just leave the pool be until FC comes down to 10?
Click to expand...

Yup!

Your SWG was off, yes?

Okay, with an SWG, for your CYA of 70, your normal levels of FC are 3-5. NEVER Let it drop below 3. You may have to play with your SWG settings to find the right balance. If you are not using the SWG your CYA level means your recommended FC is 5-8, and use bleach and the pool calc to figure out the proper dosing.

You can wait to check the PH until the FC drops below 10. Also, when the FC hits 6 you can turn the SWG back on (it should be off during this time).
 
Sorry, I didn't even notice you didn't have the salt reading. Yes you can add the salt. The SWG wouldn't have worked anyway without it :wink: my bad. Did you get some salt test strips to test your levels? Do you have the salt on hand, if not, do you know what to get? :goodjob:
 
mastiffs08 said:
I have the salt strips. I didn't get the salt yet. I know I have to get pool salt so I'm just going to the pool store for that (I have store credit there)
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

You can also use water softener salt, if you find a good buy. Here's Jason's earlier post on pool salt:
JasonLion said:
There is no need to use pool salt for faster dissolving. Even pellet salt, which does dissolve more slowly, still dissolves quickly enough that it is not a problem. I suggest crystal salt, but anything other than a large single block of salt will work. Simply brush any salt around to spread it out right at first and again after 15 minutes and it should all dissolve reasonably quickly. Leaving the pump on for 24 hours is a great idea, but four hours is probably enough (less if you pre-dissolve).

Water softener salt, often called solar salt, is the least expensive. You want the kind without any additives or special features, usually in the blue bags, avoid rust remover, iron fighter, and table salt! For example, Cargill/Diamond Crystal Salt Crystals for Water Softener or Morton White Crystal Solar Salt. There are other forms that will work, pool salt, pellets, etc, but the crystals are usually the least expensive (sometimes dramatically so).

Also, low water temperature can cause some SWGs to read the salt level as lower than it actually is. Some are temperature compensated and some aren't.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply