Stenner Pump and a light question

Sep 13, 2015
31
Phoenix, AZ
Hey guys,
So had one of my buddies that does pool mods come over and we acid washed my pool, and chlorine washed as well. It is filled back up now, and the main reason we did it is i just bought the house, and parameters were very bad, CYA out of control, etc. So now the pool looks amazing, and ive had my stenner sitting since winter i haven't installed it. Now is the time. I have a separate digital timer for stenner that will will do minutes, and I will control injection that way. I may wire in a relay later to prevent injection while pool pump isn't running. Now my question is, I need to tap into the return with my 1/4" black tubing from stenner, without cutting and glueing in a T, can drill and tap at a slip_slip coupler, then thread a male NPT plastic fitting in? Will this work? What about saddle clamps? Also, what fitting do I connect the black tubing to return with? are the plastic push in quick connectors (Reverse osmosis style) ok to use?

Last questions deal with my lights, i have a old fiber optic with 3 nicheless 1.5" lenses on the wall, it works, but the fiber optic cable is so bad/damaged, i get just a faint glow in each lense, and it puts zero light into pool. They come from one light box, and go into 3 separate stubbed up conduit to the side of the pool wall. I want to switch these to a jandy, hayward, pentair, savi, etc. niche-less led emitters. I have built highpower (200-500 true watts)LED lights for reef tanks and i understand the workings with led drivers, voltages etc, however, I get a little confused as to what controllers I have to buy to make the pool emitters work. So, my wants is, the most affordable system, which I can buy, one led head now, and a control unit (if needed) then buy the 2 other emitters later. I would like them be an RGB unit. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
 
Get a saddle clamp for ozone at spa guts.com or you local pool store.

On your second point you need to look at pentairs globrights or jandy nichless lights. While you don't need a controller, pool automation or a controller makes them simpler to operate
 
As for the Stenner injection point, you can drill and tap into the sidewall of the pipe if you want. Some people chose to drill and tap into a fitting so they have a little more thickness to deal with, but the sidewall of the pipe is thick enough to support the installation without an issue.
 
As for the Stenner injection point, you can drill and tap into the sidewall of the pipe if you want. Some people chose to drill and tap into a fitting so they have a little more thickness to deal with, but the sidewall of the pipe is thick enough to support the installation without an issue.


what he ^^^^^ said. I did mine at a slip fitting to give the injector connection more beef in case I bump a foot into it.
 
One method: Drill into the PVC with a 23/32" 1/2" drill bit. Then create the threading with a Drillco 2700E Series Carbon Steel tap or similar (size= 1/2"-14). Be sure to buy a tap wrench to hold the tap shank - makes twisting the shank into the drilled out hole easier and avoids a poor tap result. Both can be had by searching on Amazon or Ebay, and totals about $20-25 for all three items.

Very Important: when drilling into the PVC to create the rough opening, start off first by drilling a small diameter hole, then use a slightly larger bit to enlarge it, then finish the hole with the 23/32" 1/2 drill bit. This will avoid cracking the PVC, which can happen if you just start drilling away with the larger bit. And never drill using a spade bit (flat or fan type bit) as that will surely cause the pipe to crack when drilling the rough opening hole.

When twisting in the tap shank to create the threading, apply constant pressure, and make sure the shank is level. Also important: twist the shank about a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then reverse by that amount, than proceed again with that same technique until the tapping is competed.

This will create a perfect threaded entry point for any 1/2" sized injection male fitting.
 
Instead of the 1/2" NPT fitting Jaimslaw mentioned, I'd use the 1/4" NPT fitting that comes with the Stenner. Both the 'Check Valve Injection Fitting' and the regular 'Injection Fitting' have both 1/4" NPT and 1/2" NPT threads on them.

You'll need a 7/16" drill and a 1/4" x 18 NPT tap.

He also gave good advice about how to drill and tap the pipe. However, that's a do as I say and not as I do thing for me. I just drill the hole to the final size with one bit and then chuck the tap up in the drill and tap the hole with the drill. But, I've been doing it for 40 years, so YMMV! :bounce:
 

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