Starting over

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GasHauler

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Sep 15, 2015
24
Mobile, Al
So I'm starting the SLAM over. I spent about two hours vacuuming to waster earlier. I was very suprised at how many leaves were still left in the bottom even after I had tried to get them with a dip net before I did my first SLAM. Most of them were bleached white. I have my polaris running in it also; not sure if that is a good idea or not but I was hoping it would pick up anything left/stir the water up more. Wish me good lucak and if anyone has any more suggestions please let me know




temp - 58 was 52 when I started process
fc - 19.0 at 3:40 pm
cc - .5
ph - 7.5
ta - 90
ch - 140
cya is less than 30, was at 50 when pool was closed in Oct but we got a lot of rain this winter
 
Hey GH, welcome back. I was curious about your situation. Okay, the only thing I would suggest is confirming the CYA. If it's 20, that's one thing (FC shock would be 10). If it's 30, the FC shock would be 12. But if the dot never disappears it may be less than 20, it could actually be zero. You want to ensure you have at least 20 CYA there. Then pick either 10 or 12 FC as your SLAM level (CYA of 20 = FC 10; CYA of 30 = FC 12).

Your pH is no longer applicable since you started the SLAM and an FC over 10 will skew the pH reading, so there's no need to test until after the SLAM. The rest is fine. Now just keep cleaning manually, sweeping. scrubbing, and above all else, maintaining the FC at that 10-12 mark depending on your CYA. Don't stop, even if the water looks clear, until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Good luck!
 
Welcome to TFP gashauler. You didn't have a question in your post but I'm going to ask. You say starting over? Did you stop a SLAM in progress for some reason? You not done until it is clean and clear. And passing the three criteria of passing OCLT, clear water and cc is less than .5

If you have questions about the process please ask :)
 
I had another thread that had pics, is there a way to link them together. I also took the ph measurement before I added the 2.5 gallon jug of bleach. As far as the CYA the dot doesnt disappear. Tx Splash, I put the whole jug in there to try and not have to keep adding every 30 min or hour or whenever. Laziness on my part lol. My test kit is a taylor k2006 btw.

Moderator note: As the previous thread dealt mainly with flock and other issues I recommend not merging them to reduce confusion. It can be viewed here: Does water temp affect pool drop?
 
Oh, okay. Since the dot never disappears, it means you have little to no CYA. It would be best to add enough stabilizer (via the sock soaking method) and shoot for a CYA target of 20 ppm. Get that soaking while you continue with your SLAM. To be safe, in case there was a small amount of residual CYA in there before, make your FC Shock level "12". For adding stabilizer, bleach, or anything else, it's always best to use the poolmath calculator (link below). Let it do the work for you. But try your best to keep the FC constant without too many "highs and lows". The more constant the better so you don't waste bleach and $$. :)

- - - Updated - - -

You can let the FC sink down a bit to 12-ish. No need to keep it too high. It doesn't work faster, just kind of wastes bleach to the sun.
 
GasHauler said:
I put the whole jug in there to try and not have to keep adding every 30 min or hour or whenever. Laziness on my part lol. My test kit is a taylor k2006 btw.
Click to expand...

A SLAM is not the place to allow laziness to take over. The instructions are written to be followed as closely as possible.

Massive additions of chlorine are never a good thing and should be avoided. Test and add only a sufficient amount of chlorine to get to (or just slightly above) shock level.
 
Okay...So SLAM was successful and passed the OCLT. Went to leslies and bought some alum and it worked great. Water was very clear until I stirred it up a bit vacuuming it, it is not super clear now but you can see the bottom in the deep end and it is settling again. My new problem now is what I guess would be considered stains. It looks to me like butter from a microwave popcorn bag and has the same feel. If you scrape it with you fingernail it comes off.

fc - 5
cc - .0
ph - 7.4
ta - 90
ch - 140
cya - 40
 

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Green algae usually floats in the water and turns the entire pool a murky green. Mustard algae is a yellow green color and grows on the walls and floor mostly on the shady side of the pool. Pollen and dirt tends to accumulate in drifts on the floor in places with slower circulation and can often look fairly similar to mustard algae. Brownish stains would tend to imply metal in the water. Did we ever ask if your local water has iron in it? I've seen lots of well water in AL with iron in it.

By the way ... is your water still clear? It was looking quite good in your previous thread. Just a little cloudy back then as you were finishing the SLAM.
 
ha. No surprise on the Leslie tests. What we need to determine now is exactly what type of staining you have going on there. Try holding a vitamin C tablet against one of the stained spots until it dissolves. If the stain vanishes in that area they are iron stains. If vitamin C does nothing, you can also try to hold a tablet/puck on the stain(s) for about a minute - not too long in one spot though since I believe your surface is vinyl (keep it moving a bit). We don't want you to damage the vinyl. Triclor works against organic stains. If the puck lightens the stain, it is organic. For organic stains, keeping FC around shock level for your CYA level for several days with some consistent brushing will usually clear up all of the stains. If the vitamin C doesn't work and you're not comfortable holding a puck against the vinyl, them simply go straight to bumping-up FC for a few days to see fi that has an overall effect.

Give either/all of those a try and let us know how it goes.
 
I took bleach and poured it on the top step and scrubbed when the water level low after I vacuumed to waste the other day and nothing, is that the same or does it have to be tri chlor. I've had the fc at shock level for a week while doing the slam. I'll have to get some vitamin C and try that.
 
There are many discussions on the forum about those items and how a well-balanced pool is not effected by either. Rely on your K-2006. It's a veteran-proven test kit that gives you all the results you need so you can accurately treat your water with our list of Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals. TDS and phosphates are generally just another tactic to get you to buy more expensive pool products that will not resolve the root problem (usually algae).

A stain in vinyl pool must either be organic (form of algae) or metal. Either way, they can be treated by proper sanitation or sequestrants respectively. We just need to pinpoint it.
 

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