Self-Installing Jandy Automation - Suggestions?

[setsailsoon]

Folks,

We swim almost every night and I'm really tired of the trek around the house at night to reset the archaic Intermatic timer, valves, and, heater control after swimming and spa use (for some reason automatically it's a "blue job"). So my equipment will be delivered next week and I'll install next weekend. Here's what I'm starting with:

Jandy System Board RS-PS12 kit plus an extra valve actuator (comes with 2)
Jandy Power Center Standard Sub-Panel Power Center No 6614-LD
Zodiac AquaLink RS iAquaLink Interface Kit IQ20-A

Here are the initial capabilities I'd like:

Jandy Jxi heater on/off and temp
Spa operation mode
Pool operation mode
Internet mobile control so I can have the heated pool or hot spa waiting
Control of 3 LED lights (2 in pool and one in spa)

In the future we'll add at least 2 water features and possibly some LED area lighting.

I'll be replacing an existing Intermatic T104/6 in a box with 6 breakers so I plan to remove that box and replace it with the larger 6614-LD. Lights are currently on a wall switch in the house. I've done a lot of 220/110 wiring so I'm very comfortable with the replacement. If I encounter anything I'm not expecting my local electrical contractor will do that part for me.

I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions for the install. My wife wants an indoor panel with "simple buttons". Seems like there's 3 or so choices, any suggestions?

Thanks.

Chris

 

[Patrick_B]

I went with a remote for my system versus an inside wall panel for simplicity of installation. Very happy with the choice, and I like having the flexibility of having control at arms length any time/place I want it. It's really personal, but I don't regret this decision at all.

 

[setsailsoon]

I went with a remote for my system versus an inside wall panel for simplicity of installation. Very happy with the choice, and I like having the flexibility of having control at arms length any time/place I want it. It's really personal, but I don't regret this decision at all.

Patrick,

That's great to hear. I was hoping somebody would say this as I think it could well work for us. My wife is very skeptical but she's also very savvy with her cell phone. Your response at least helps me make the case it's worth trying.

Fingers crossed and thanks for the reply.

Chris

 

[bdavis466]

All of the more recent automation systems have the ability to be controlled through a cell phone which makes the remotes and even the wall panels obsolete. I don't really see a reason for either since they will always be more inconvenient than a phone.

It seems most people these days do not ever separate from their phone anyway...Just one more reason to make sure your system has the ability to do so.

 

[setsailsoon]

Re: Self-Installing Jandy Automation *** Update***

Folks,

Thought an update would be a good idea in case anybody else takes this automation project on.

I'm not done but I'm pretty close. I ordered most of the equipment from Sun Play and their performance was mixed. I got the Jandy RS 12 kit pretty quickly but for some reason the panel enclosure didn't come with it. After a few days I contacted Sun Play and I finally got it but it took over a week longer... kind of frustrating since the job started with replacing the panel. Problems happen every now and then but I felt like I was having to do too much myself to resolve the problem and Sun Play did resolve it but their customer service process for resolving problems needs some help. That said, I got the equipment at a great price and it all worked flawlessly.

So back to the job. I had the very basic Intermatic T-104/6 motor start timer cabinet with an 8 breaker sub-panel. The Jandy panel I installed is MUCH bigger with a 12 breaker sub-panel plus room for SWG and 8 3 HP relays. My original installation was by the PB and the wiring was really pretty sloppy. There was no extra wire on any connections which meant the new panel location would require I'd have to chose between re-running all the equipment wiring or re-run the sub panel supply. I chose the latter. This meant adding a splice box in the power supply from my main panel in the power drop conduit above the panel. This is code legal if you use the right sized box/wires but I'll have my electrician re-do the supply in a couple of weeks when he can fit me in. I hate sloppy wiring and spliced power supply counts as sloppy. My electrical contractor has some young, agile, electrical helpers that can work in the confined space near the wall roof joint where this supply wire runs in the attic waaay better than me.

I planned on a two-day outage of the pool so I adjusted pH and then raised the FC to 9 ppm before starting the job (just in case it took longer). First day I only had 4 hours so I demoed the old panel, taped and labeled the old circuits, and installed the splice box. One thing that worked very well was taping and labeling the each of the circuits. Also when it wasn't obvious label the voltage. There are usually a combination of 110v and 220 circuits. Here's the circuits I had to remove/re-install:

220v Filter Pump
220v Spa Booster Pump
220v Jandy Natural Gas heater (Jxi 260)
220v Hayward Solar control
110v Jandy LED lights
110v Rainbird Irrigation Control
220v Irrigation Well Pump

The two pool pumps have each 20 amp GFCI breakers. And I have one additional 20 amp 220v breaker for the irrigation pump. The Hayward solar controller can be wired 220 or 110. I plan to change to 110 v so I don't take the space in the box for yet another 220v breaker. It's very low amperage either way. Also the wire colors were all messed up so I'll replace that circuit's wiring completely, with existing conduit it's pretty easy to do.

Today I got up early and wired the power supply splice box and re-installed all the circuits except the solar heater that will be finished tomorrow. My main objective was to install the controller and get the filter pump plus irrigation wiring done so I'm ahead of schedule. Everything worked flawlessly. Wiring the relays into the RS 12 was a snap. Once I confirmed the RS-12 completed the self-test I ran the filter pump in Service Mode since I don't have and external controller until I hook up the iAqualink (tomorrow). I have some photo's that I'll post in my next and final update. To celebrate the progress so far Robin and I fired up the Spa and lazed around in it to top off a great Easter weekend.

Here's the main learning's so far:

• This work requires you are NEC knowledgeable, and comfortable removing the cover from a 220v panel doing a LOT of work inside.
• SAFETY FIRST. Turn off supply at the main and double-check with a volt meter to be sure power's off. Don't take ANY chances on this. Also, panel wiring work can be more physical than you think. When you get soaked with sweat it's time for a break... I needed 3 of these the first day. Re-hydrate all day long.
• When you remove the old panel tape and label each circuit's wires in a bundle. Include the voltage of the circuit if it's not obvious.

• Some municipalities require a building permit and licensed electrician to do this work so you wouldn't have the option to do this yourself. Even if you don't need a permit etc. you may just not be comfortable doing the work and you can still save money. If I had to hire an electrician to do the wiring only it would cost about $500 which still would net a big savings compared to the dealers I quoted. Two local dealers bid $1500 for the labor on the panel and this did not include replacing the supply wire.
• Jandy's warranty does cover the equipment I installed but of course they don't warrant my installation. Some dealers will include an extended warranty if they do the work so consider this in your decision to do the project yourself.
• Make sure to get your pool ready for a couple of days with no pump.
• Mounting the panel is much easier if you have a helper. The one I installed is heavy and required Tapcon's into cinder block. This takes a hammer drill and concrete drilled pilot holes.
• It really helps to have a supply of reducers (those thin flimsy galvanized washers that go on the inside of the box to lock the conduit in place with the friction-fit conduit nuts.

Next step will include installation of the valve actuators, iAqualink install/hookup/programming, and re-wire of the solar controller for 110v.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris