New Pebble Tech Pool, do I need to raise CH now or should I wait?

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Austx

Austx

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 25, 2015
15
Austin TX
My pool was filled 19 days ago. Test results are as follows:

CH 130
PH 7.8
FC 4
CYA 20
TA 45
Temp 66

I know the recommended level for CH is 250 - 350, but I have also heard that with new plaster pool I can expect it to rise for ~ 30 days. I'm not sure if there would be less of a rise with pebble tech. Currently my CSI is at -0.44, which is above the danger zone.
Should I raise my CH, or wait a few weeks and reassess then?
I know my CYA is low, I'm relying on tablets to raise it while it is cool, then switching to bleach.
 
I know my Pebbletec pool after 30 days the pool CH was very low, about 100 before it was switched over to salt. I had to add quite a bit and again later in a few weeks. That was a year ago and haven't had to add since and it's has stayed at 350.

Ill add I haven't had the need to add tap water either so I'm not adding to ch that way. Rain keeps it full.
 
Austx, since your pool was filled only 19 days ago, I would first speak to your builder about what advice they have and/or if you are released from any start-up procedures. The last thing you want to do is void any warranty with them. If they say you have the "green light", please check out our Pool School - Start-up New Plaster page. Many questions will be answered there. After that, it all boils-down to maintaining the recommended levels and using only the recommended TFP chemicals for your pool.

A couple tips about your first post and test readings though:
- FC is okay for now, but not for long. Once you raise your CYA up to the minimum suggested (30) your FC target will be 4. Once our days get hotter, both of those may increase as summer gets closer, so watch that FC and don't let it go below 4.
- CYA is low at 20 as you already know, so you'll want at least 30 to protect your FC. I see you have an in-line feeder for tablets. We normally do not recommend them, but in your case, if you do have some, you could put a couple in there as they will increase your CYA, help lower pH, and give you some FC - the perfect "trifecta". That's not the norm here (tablets), it just works-out for you .... for now. Once your CYA get to 30-40, stop using tabs altogether. Only regular bleach from HEB, Wal-Mart, etc.
pH - 7.8 is as high as you want to go, so have plenty of acid on-hand as your new plaster will drive it up continuously
- TA is on the low side, but that may work in your favor at the moment as a low TA helps to keep pH down, so don't change that right now.
- CH is low. Your new plaster needs some CH to stay healthy. I would first call the builder, check on the warranty or any concerns there. If they so "go", then increase at least to 200. Your local water refills over the summer should drive it up quickly from there.

Hope that helps get you going. :)
 
I would hold off on raising the CH. I'd assume your fill water is around 125 PPM, couple that with high evaporation rates and your CH will likely be above the recommended level by the end of summer.

For now, I'd suggest raising your TA to 120 for the short while it takes your CH to rise. Be prepared to add acid frequently with a high TA (especially compared to having a TA of 45).

Become familiar with the Calcite Saturation Index at the bottom of Pool Math and aim for a CSI at or near 0.
 
Austx, as you can see from Brain's last post #4, there is more than one way to approach CH issues, whether they are high or low, by manipulating pH and TA. After loading both suggested methods in the poolmath calculator, I would agree with Brian that increasing TA will help keep your CSI closer to a neutral zone at -0.29. Only increasing the CH to 200 would still leave it too low at -.6. So that's a good call to bump-up TA a bit. You'll go through more acid that way because of rising pH, but we also expect your fill water to increase your CH over time anyways. If you're not sure about all of this, I am referring to the row on the calculator titled "CSI" which helps with plaster management. But the key is to get your builder's "OK" so you can manage those chemicals on your own. Use that calculator (CSI row) and watch the numbers as you change pH, TA, and CH. You'll see what I mean.
 
Marcion333 said:
CH was 150 when my pebbletec pool opened this past november, and i raised it to 290. raising your CH from 130 to 300 will immediately lower your CSI to -0.14.
Click to expand...

Raising the CH will raise the CSI, not lower it. In Austx's case, the CSI needs to rise because it is low right now. Increasing the TA level fulfills those needs and can easily be later lowered to compensate for rising calcium levels. Voluntarily raising the CH will also accomplish the same task, but calcium hardness isn't easily removed, hence my suggestion to temporarily raise the TA and let the CH rise on its own. The water departments are kind enough to include plenty of it in the tap water free of charge.
 
Always follow the builder/installer's recommendations so you don't void any warranty you may have. They should have either provided you with instructions for the start up period or they should be monitoring the start up.
 

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This just gets better. Before raising my CH, I tested it with my TF 100, and my results are a CH of 225. Tested three times with the same result. I took my sample back to the pool store and told then about the conflicting results and had them retest. I watched him use the same Taylor reagents, but he came up with 130. My dilemma is, I need a monthly print out of their results showing a CH of at least 200 to keep my warranty. Now what!?
 
Your PB break-in period should only be so long. After that, they will require you to maintain within the required parameters, but to my knowledge, nothing says it must be from a pool store. As you know, those tests at the pool store are inconsistent more times than not. Perhaps you can maintain a log (spreadsheet or something) on your computer as the year goes on? No doubt your TF-100 is spot-on as long as you are following the directions properly as seen HERE. The fact you have a speed stir makes it that much more efficient and accurate. I bet if you went to the pool store 3X in the next 2 weeks, you would get 3 different answers.
 
Pool store said 130, did they use 25ml of water for the sample?

I take it that you are using 10ml of water for your tests. For more precision on lower levels of CH I would test it with 25ml of water. Search for the extended test kit instructions for the proper amount of reagents to use.

In the end, always trust your readings, not the pool store.
 
Thanks Ping! I wouldn't have thought of that. I was out camping over spring break for a few days, but now that I'm back I'll retest with 25 ml and report back if I'm still having issues.

On the plus side, when we got home from camping the water was up to 75 degrees and the possibility of low CH didn't keep us out for a minute. :)
 
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