my pool man said the pool was etched. What does that mean?

Mar 7, 2016
19
Arlington tx
We had a pool man give us pool school when we bought our house 2 years ago since we had never owned a pool. He said the pool was etched and it would need to be redone at some point. I dont know what etched means. Is my plaster bad
 
yes the walls of the pool feel rough. He told me the pool would need redone, the tile in the pool would have to be replaced, and that it was a cantilever pool and that they would have to apply stone around the upper edge of the pool. I have been doing some reading about using epoxy paint instead of spending the money to redo the entire pool. Thoughts? The tile are all in place and the decking around the pool is in good condition. I sure dont want to have to spend upwards of 10,000 dollars or more if I dont have to.
I've been doing some reading on the test kit that everyone recommends on this site. I'll have to order myself one. I'm really not satisfied with leslies as they always just seem to want to sell you chemicals.
 
Let me give you a more direct answer. It is likely that your pool is etched because of improper water chemistry. Virtually everybody in this forum has anecdotal evidence of retail pool companies giving pretty bogus information. You should read up on the CSI, which is a measure of how likely your water is to "eat" your pool. Here are the recommended levels. And the bottom line is that you need to do your own testing.... you have incentive to perfect your pool. Pool supply stores have an incentive to sell.... stuff....

Not only will you benefit financially, but you will benefit from a properly sanitized and balanced pool if you take control of your own pool..... the first item you need to do that is a quality pool test kit, like the Taylor K-2006C kit. Make Pool School your friend and do a lot of reading there.....

PS
Painting? Totally not recommended.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Yes, etching is caused by poor water chemistry. Specifically, CH, TA and PH management. Painting your pool with epoxy will not make it smoother and will only last a couple of years if done well, less if not. The test kit I use is a TF100 from TFTestkits.net. i would spend this season learning how to manage your pool and decide on how to move forward later. Use Poolmath to manage your CSI score.

More here, Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)

If you are brand new to managing your water start here, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Etched means that your pool was low in calcium and that the plaster leached calcium back into the pool leaving a rough plaster surface, sort of like lava rock.
 
I agree with the others, spend some time learning and practising proper pool chemistry management, which was the underlying cause of this issue, before tackling the issue of plaster replacement. Sorry I don't have a plaster pool, so can't tell you much about exactly what would be involved in refinishing it.
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

So as you can tell by the posts above sometimes we are not to good at listening.

Two years ago your pool guy said the pool was etched correct?

What he ment by that is that is that the pool plaster showed signs of deterioration caused by to low a ph. That could be from bad water chemistry or from just old plaster. We don't know.

What it also means is that you have to be careful in your water chemistry to keep the pool from deteriorating further. Though if he said it was bad two years ago it probably needs replastering now. How old is the pool? CAn we get a picture?

As you can tell from the replies above going to Leslies and relying on their tests is frowned upon here. Generally I avoid the place. I trust my own test results. I don't think they are bad or dishonest at most pool stores, just more interested in selling quick fixes rather than doing the simple long term work to keep my pool healthy.

You might want to call around and have a few pool repair guys look at your pool and see how much a plaster job would cost. Generally tile and coping do not have to be replaced. Post some pictures and we can give our opinion.
 
I love taking water to leslies to get tested and see just how much money they want me to spend and also see how far off they are :)

The last time they wanted me to spend 60 bucks on who knows what...
 
Welcome to TFP carlbob!

There's a good chance your etching is primarily from poor chemistry management for sure, but is it pretty old too? In either case, it's great to hear you considering doing your own Chems, as it will help no matter what you do on refinish. Paints may help, but they won't last long before its peeling and looking poor.
 
I want to say thanks for all your responses. I've heard other people say that they dont car for leslies for the same reasons you all listed. Out of all the times I've taken water samples there, there has only been once that they said my water was fine and I didn't have to buy any chemicals. I have no idea how old the pool is,but think it was built along with the house 30 yrs ago. I would love to send you a picture, but we've got it covered for the winter mainly to keep the leaves and trash from blowing in.
The guy that came out to give me pool school when we moved in said he would have to do the plaster,tile and do coping at the same time as he couldnt do one without doing the other. From what ive been reading, I think he just wants more money in his pocket. Like I said the tile is fine and so is the decking around the pool. I dont want to have to spend money for things I dont need.
 

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You can often do plaster without taking out the tile and coping. Many pool restorers don't want to do it because it requiters them to have better trained crews and slow down. Post some pictures and we can give you better advice.
 
I am wanting to order a water test kit but am confused by what all of you are recomending. What is the difference in the TF100, the K-2006C and the K2006. Which one do I need for a chlorine pool?
The differences are in the size/amout of reagent bottles included with the kits. All of them use the same Taylor Technologies chemicals.

I recomend the TF100 as it was designed for residential use and has more of what we do use and less or none of what we don't use often.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.

The final thought is that the owners of the company who sells the TF-100 also pay the bills here to keep the electrons flowing. Short of a direct donation, it is the best way to support our site.
 
As for the tile replacement, I think it's pretty difficult to remove all the plaster without damaging a few tiles, but even if one or two got destroyed you'd likely never match them. Adding tile to a re-finish should be pretty minimal in terms of cost.
 
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