New install advice

[tigerucla]

I'm planning on putting in an AquaRite SWG, but don't currently have 15" of straight pipe for the AQR-15 cell. I'm thinking of re-routing from the filter back, up and over the pipe going to the filter to place the cell and flowmeter, then down, back and to the left to return to the pool. Anyone got any better ideas?

Also, I will be converting my Stenner from chlorine to acid. Should I try to move it before the SWG, or leave it where it is?

And would it be better to hook the power up to the timer and set it to the time the pump is running, or rely on the flowmeter to turn the SWG on/off?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[pooldv]

What about rotating the filter 90 counterclockwise so the pump feeds straight in? Then one 90 out and that should leave plenty of room for the swg cell. Definitely wire the cell to the time clock. But, your pump doesn't need a time clock. I wired my swg to my old pump time clock and wired the pump to the breaker so I could control the swg run time independently. I usually run my pump more than I run my swg. The general concensus seems to be to inject acid before the swg cell.

 

[tigerucla]

Thanks Pooldv. At first, that seems like it would make a lot of sense, but the L on the pump comes out about 3" below the filter inlet. How hard would it be to remove the L off the pump and add a 3" section to get it to the same height? And even if we did that, I don't think we'll have quite enough length to place the Stenner injection, SWG cell, and flowmeter in line without moving the pump to the right. Lastly, to turn the filter 90 degrees and L out of it towards the return, I would have to move the filter back 4-5", but I've only got 2" to the back of the pad.

The pump is currently connected to the Line side of the timer connections, so it's bypassing the timer switch, I assume (not my install). Thanks for your input on wiring the SWG on the timer (Load side, right?).

 

[pooldv]

I wondered if you might need to move the filter back and if you would have enough room. Your plumbing set up is simple enough that a couple of more 90s won't hurt you much, especially with that great pump!

Yes, load side so you can set your timer separately for the SWG. I did the same with my pump, moved it over to line and connected the SWG to the timer.

 

[tigerucla]

I see we have the same pump. Nice!

If I do decide to repipe the whole shebang, how hard will it be to replace the pipes attached to the pump? I assume they're threaded? Where can I get PVC pipe threaded on one end?

 

[chiefwej]

I would add pump couplings. You can buy ones that thread into the pump but the seal is made by O-rings that seal against the body of the pump.

 

[pooldv]

Any plumbing store should have them. Yes, it is a threaded 2" nipple. Most people use cpvc. Use teflon tape to seal the threads.

Or unions would be better.

Here is one, Pentair Pump Union 11201-0154

 

[chiefwej]

Most pumps have straight threads and pipe nipples are tapered thread. That makes it a PITA to seal properly. The couplings are the way to go. Hunt around and you ca find them cheaper. I've seen a set of two for around $25 somewhere online.

Here you go

Pump Unions for IntelliFlo - Threaded 2" w/O-Rings (2 Union Sets)

 

[pooldv]

Hey, that's a good deal right there!

 

[chiefwej]

Hey, that's a good deal right there!

And they also have the Intelliflo VS 3 hp pump for $860. Really good prices!

 

[tigerucla]

One more question. If you notice in the photo, the T-fitting where I have the Stenner injection point is butted right up against the valve. Is it possible to get new valve end connectors which would fit the existing valve? Otherwise, I do not know how I will be able to remove the T-fitting, then replumb.

Since this is the return line, and the pool is above the equipment, I'm afraid if I cut the pipe after the valve, the pool will drain!

And another question (I know I said "one more", but I lied)- I assume if I use some of the old pipes (like the 90's that go into the filter), I would have to sand off the paint before gluing to new pipes/fittings?
And what's the best way to paint the new pipes?

Thanks.

 

[pooldv]

You are just replacing the pump right? I would cut the pressure side just to the left of the 90 coming out of the pump. Cut the suction side just left of the pipe going in the pump. I used Krylon spray paint to paint my PVC. If the primer doesn't take the paint off then use a fine sand paper lightly to remove the paint.

 

[tigerucla]

Actually, I'm adding a SWG, but need to repipe to get enough straight line for the SWG and flow meter. I also would ideally like to place the injection T before the SWG, since I will be using it for acid rather than chlorine. Replacing the pump would certainly be much easier.

So is it possible to get new valve end connectors which would fit the existing valve? (the one with the red handle)

 

[pooldv]

Oops, got your thread confused with another one! No need to replace that nice, new Intelliflo.

Those ball valves with the red handles generally only last 2-3 years before they swell, stick and the handles break off. I would replace that with a Jandy never lube valve or Pentair valve like the one you've got in front of the pump.

It is good to get some straight pipe in front of your SWG to avoid issues but most don't get the full recommended length. My SWG recommends 10" or 12" of straight pipe and I have almost none, maybe 2", and it has worked fine for almost 4 years. Pics in my build thread, link in sig.

 

[tigerucla]

Any ideas on how to replace the valve without draining the pool, since the pool is above the equipment?

 

[pooldv]

That is a dilemma. I will have that issue too when the time comes. You can buy plugs to plug each return, more difficult if you also have a bottom drain. I've seen people use bread to plug the line while they glue it. Use Oatey blue pvc glue, it works when wet.

Hopefully some people who have done it can help out with more ideas.

 

[chiefwej]

With the AquaRite SWG the only place that calls for 12" of straight pipe is before the flow sensor and your T cell can serve as most of that. I don't see what your ball valve is doing. It almost looks like you only have one pool return and the ball valve would close it. Just eliminating the 45 degree portion before it goes in the ground should give you enough straight pipe.