Thank you for making light at the end of the tunnel!

JasonLion said:
Lets go back to the beginning. In your first post you said "stains disappeared". And then "added as told again, green disappears". Then right away things got confusing, with impossible test results, figuring out the pool volume, foaming, and adding way too much chlorine.

Can you tell us more about those stains? What did they look like and do you remember what the treatment was that made them disappear?

Before 4/18-09 and before salt was added we had a stain issue on the stairs, they were copper colored....I added Stain Free by Natural Chemistry and it removed the stains.
The pool was clean, clear and blue and I had it tested at the pool place before we added the salt on 4/18/09, at that point the stairs where snow-white.
A few days later the pool began turning slightly green and the greener from there on!
4/26: got new test kit, green was apparently algea began to add bleach as I've stated earlier (at this point since monday 22 jugs) since last Sunday the stairs have slightly stained again, mostly at the waterline, it's a yellow.

I hope this helps clear up my confusing posts!! Sorry but Im still newby chemist!!!
Thanks for assisting me in my drama :rant:
Cheerio!
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
I had this sneaking suspicion, looks like I'm not alone in this mindset... I would surely have your water tested for copper at the pool store tomorrow....

My first step tomorrow will be having the water tested for copper and all other metals and go from there! One of the local shops does sell Jack's Purple stuff...so I am going to go to them....I will keep you guy's posted!

I hope it is the copper thing, otherwise I am going to run out of testing chems for the TF-100 kit.... :pale: also bc I want that green mess gone :pr: and have a :smurf: pool!!

I let you all know tomorrow!
 
The Stain Free removed the metals from the surface of the pool and put them into the water. You then need to use a sequestrant to keep them from depositing back onto the pool surface as stains. Metals in the water without sequestrant can also turn the water interesting colors when you shock, green and yellow are common. The annoying thing is that once you have metals in the water you need to keep using sequestrant regularly or the problem (stains/colors) will come back.
 
JasonLion said:
The Stain Free removed the metals from the surface of the pool and put them into the water. You then need to use a sequestrant to keep them from depositing back onto the pool surface as stains. Metals in the water without sequestrant can also turn the water interesting colors when you shock, green and yellow are common. The annoying thing is that once you have metals in the water you need to keep using sequestrant regularly or the problem (stains/colors) will come back.

Thank you for that info....I will have it checked tomorrow and if I need to do a weekly metal treatment then so be it...as long as I get that pool clean, clear and blue asap, I am game for anything...otherwise I will never ever get that nagging :rant: husband of my back unless of course I crack the preverbial :whip: ...lol

Thanks guys...!
Cheerio!
 
NCSalt,

I am reluctant to suggest anything other than chlorine to get a pool clear but I am persuaded that the sequestrant just might do it.

You have put enough chlorine in that small pool to blast away any algae and it seems to have had no effect....maybe worsened it.

If the sequestrant does the trick, that'll be great.

If it turns out to be metal, it should encourage you to do more draining and refilling as that will help reduce both the metal content and CYA.

Keep us posted.
 
JasonLion said:
The Stain Free removed the metals from the surface of the pool and put them into the water. You then need to use a sequestrant to keep them from depositing back onto the pool surface as stains. Metals in the water without sequestrant can also turn the water interesting colors when you shock, green and yellow are common.
I may be way off base (and have been accused of that), but the MSDS for the Algicide listed in this post (Aqua Chem Algaecide 20%) contains 20% Alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride; no copper, which is good.
The Nature 2 on the other hand lists "...provides precise amounts of minerals in the water... In pools, silver and copper :?: work in conjunction with the small level of chlorine to destroy bacteria... Nature2 Spa combines silver, and other trace elements, to effectively sanitize..."

Am I mis-reading it??
 
Nope, good catch Fuzzy! :bowdown:

NCsalt, Are you still using the Nature 2??? :shock: Is the mineral cartridge still in the canister, and operating?

(usually those things stick out at me, I can't believe I missed that :oops: :hammer: )

On that note, your signature is a bit long/cluttered...you should edit out this part "(top: grey/blue tile patterns, throughout it's a very light speckled blue that fades from top to bottom from more dense speckles to more separated ones)", And put your location in your profile instead of your sig. That will clean it up some. :wink:
 
Just returned from the Pool Shop!

The tests where done with a sophisticated kit and not test strips!

Here are the results: (and yes I am baffeled):
FC = 5+ (of course after all the bleach...hehehe)
TC = 5+
Ph = 7.6
TA = 130
Calcium Hardness = 110
CYA = 34 (now that's a kicker)
Copper/Iron = 0
Phospates = 200
Salt = 3300

WOW! Anyone! PS: Pool is still green !! :rant:
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Nope, good catch Fuzzy! :bowdown:

NCsalt, Are you still using the Nature 2??? :shock: Is the mineral cartridge still in the canister, and operating?

Though the nature two is connected there is no new cartridge in there, it's still the old one from last year (we have not decided if we are going to use it or get a replacement cartridge again)!

Also, the white flakey stuff is gone and has not re-appeared!

At this point it's just the puke :pl: green that still remains and I am not sure why :scratch:

No copper no iron...but high phosphates...so that may be it? Me at loss :hammer:

Thanks to all for your efforts!
 

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Their "sophisticated Kit" only tests up to 5 FC.

I would trust your test results vs. theirs...the only one you needed from them was for metals, since your kit doesn't test for that. The rest, I would disregard. Especially phosphates, and that's not "high" :wink: . Phosphate removers are big money makers for pool stores, usually it's nothing to worry about and in a properly chlorinated pool it usually means zilch. Take the N2 cartridge out and toss it, there still may be some residual minerals in there. Edit: I would NOT replace it. Read this article here. End Edit The 0 result tho is puzzling.

I would still follow Jason's advice and try the Magic and see if it makes a difference, certainly can't hurt anything at this point!
 
4/26: got new test kit, green was apparently algea began to add bleach as I've stated earlier (at this point since monday 22 jugs)
OK, to summarize:
Pool was clear and blue on 04/19 when SWG was started and has been green since then (in various shades).
-Starting CYA readings of 125-150+ to current CYA reading of 34 with multiple drains to waste of 4-5" each time.
-Salt content of 3600 down to salt content of 3300.
-SWG was set at 40, now set at 10 due to all of the bleach
-PH has gone from 8+ (not measurable) to 7.6 by using ~4lb of dry acid
-TA is high, but not a cause of this type of problem <fix later!>
-Gone from stain on steps to no stain and back to stain.
-Nothing floating on surface to foaming/flakes to clear surface
-Pool company checked and found no copper in the water

This may be a stretch, and I know that you've used 22 jugs of bleach.
:?: What bleach specifically? Where did you purchse it from, the brand, the strength (%), inactive ingredient content, and if possible the full name on the label?
 
Fuzzy, as I stated above, I would discount their "sophisticated" results. :wink: We all have experienced inaccurate results from the pool store at one time or another :hammer: . I highly doubt her CYA is only 34, they probably didn't perform the test correctly; and it's highly unlikely her FC went from 40 to 5. They are most likely testing with the DPD test which only yields results up to 5.
 
I see your point about the "sophisticated" testing...what I was trying to say is that they did not just test strips but similar stuff as what we find in our test kits....do I trust the results? Not sure!

At this point I am just baffeled that there apparently is no copper present, I have obviously added enough bleach to kill algea (if there even is any)....I am just totally confused. I will re-read all the pool school postings and go from there. I will order the Purple Magic that was recommended.

Below are a few pictures from a few minutes ago, it's getting there, but still slightly green!
 

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fuzzy_dba said:
This may be a stretch, and I know that you've used 22 jugs of bleach.

:?: What bleach specifically? Where did you purchse it from, the brand, the strength (%), inactive ingredient content, and if possible the full name on the label?

Fuzzy may be on to something here...help him help you :wink:

That water looks green, but not "algae green". Something else is happening here. :scratch:

Typically when algae is killed off, and the filter is circulating, the water is grey/cloudy/milky looking...not light-yellow-green as yours is. Quite the puzzle, thanks for posting the updated pics.
 
fuzzy_dba said:
4/26: got new test kit, green was apparently algea began to add bleach as I've stated earlier (at this point since monday 22 jugs)
OK, to summarize:

This may be a stretch, and I know that you've used 22 jugs of bleach.
:?: What bleach specifically? Where did you purchse it from, the brand, the strength (%), inactive ingredient content, and if possible the full name on the label?

The bleach we used:
Purchased from BJ's (Wholesale Store)
Clorox Bleach-Regular-6%
Active Ingredients - Sodium Hypochlorite 6%
Other Ingredients (not listed) 94%
Contains Phosporus - yields 5.7% available chlorine
 
NCSalt,

1. To my knowledge, pools are green from algae (99.97% of the time) or green from the presence of copper and high levels of chlorine......those are the only two choices.

2. Any store who tests your CYA as 34 should not be trusted with any test results. Your CYA is very high.

3. If I interpret your post correctly, you believe your water is improving, is that correct? (it looks like it from your recent pictures) If that is so, please keep doing exactly what you are doing. Don't go chasing wild geese as it will sidetrack and further confuse you. Bleach (chlorine) cures virtually any pool and it looks like the copper was a side issue but worth testing for.

I'd like to see the FC kept down around 25-30ppm which it probably is but your last report of 40ppm is a little too high. Once your CYA gets in the 70's range and your pool is clear, you will be able to run your FC around 4ppm.
 
Hi Dave!

yes, it seems like the water is improving...and you are correct I am VERY confused about the results I was provided with by the pool shop.....especially about the CYA. :hammer:

should I test again myself?
and if so what should I test today?

I know I must sound like a broken record :blah: and I truly appreciate you guys having patiences with me and my ranting :rant:
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
NC, do you have a bottom drain in your deep end?

Not that I know off....I've got a drain plug by the stairs in the deep end but that's an overflow valve. Got the two skimmers but I don't thing that we have a drain in the deep end. I mean there are two round thingy's in the deep end bottom but not sure if those are drains? :hammer: I surely must sound like a dumb blond :roll:
 

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