Stenner Pumps - Why 220V?

Cinic · Feb 17, 2016

I'm in the midst of planning a Stenner pump install and a lot of the threads I'm seeing indicate that many people have used 220V models.

In my equipment area, I've got a standard GFCI receptacle on it's own breaker that I was planning on wiring to the timer/switch and using a 120V stenner pump.

But I'm wondering if I'm missing something. Electrical isn't my specialty. And I may be over-thinking this.

So why do so many people use the 220V models? Is it because there's already 220 there for the pump motors? Even then, why not just tag off one of the legs to power a 120V Stenner?

Thoughts please. I'm open to discussion.

tim5055 · Feb 17, 2016

Cinic said:
But I'm wondering if I'm missing something. Electrical isn't my specialty. And I may be over-thinking this.

So why do so many people use the 220V models? Is it because there's already 220 there for the pump motors? Even then, why not just tag off one of the legs to power a 120V Stenner?

Thoughts please. I'm open to discussion.

A few thoughts-

1. Yes, because 220 is already there. I actually tied mine to the pump timer so that it can't be on if the pump is off

2. There may not necessarily be a neutral available to create 110v form one 220v leg.

3. Under current codes your pump is required to be on a GFCI circuit. "Tagging off" one leg will create an imbalance that will trip the GFCI

I don''t know you, but you admit "Electrical isn't my specialty". Know your limitations for safety.

If you haven't seen it, here is my Stenner Pump install with photos.

Cinic · Feb 17, 2016

Thanks for the input.

I am usually a DIY guy, but as I noted and as you highlighted, I understand my limitations. That being said, I still really want to know the whys and hows and design a proper system with my available options. Even if I don't do the work myself.

I had seen your setup in the past. Just so I understand, is your Stenner always running when your pool pump is running? And you have a variable output pump that is adjusted for seasonal demand?

I imagined having the pump on a separate timer and adjusting the time. Someone else also had an idea I liked which was a current switch. So the pump would only run if the motor was drawing current and wouldn't inject if there was a motor failure.

Thanks again for your input.

tim5055 · Feb 17, 2016

Cinic said:
I had seen your setup in the past. Just so I understand, is your Stenner always running when your pool pump is running? And you have a variable output pump that is adjusted for seasonal demand?

That is correct.

gary300 · Feb 17, 2016

I use a fixed rate 220 V Stenner because i have Easy Touch automation. I use a relay in the Easy Touch to control the Stenner pump down to the minute via a schedule, and tie the input of that relay into the 220 V output of my pump relay. This insures the Stenner cannot ever be on unless the pump relay is on.

Cajun · Feb 18, 2016

I used a 110 because for me it was just easier. I don't think there is an advantage either way.

jmastron · Feb 19, 2016

From my research:

- 220V can be better if your main pump is controlled by a 220V timer or relay, because you can connect it to the same output and ensure the Stenner never runs without the pump. It does require either an adjustable rate Stenner (more costly) or an additional 220V timer (e.g. Intermatic P1353ME) or automation panel to control the dosage.

- 110V can be better if you can't slave it off of the main pump anyway (e.g. with a VS IntelliFlo pump with built-in controller, like I have now), and if you have 120V available nearby. It has a standard plug, so a $20 landscape timer (e.g. Woods 50015) be used to control the dosage. There's no direct protection against the Stenner running without the main pump (a current sensing relay might work), but if both the main pump and Stenner timers are digital and battery backed, and you are careful about setting them, that mitigates the risk somewhat.

- If connection to an automation panel (e.g. an EasyTouch) with both 110V and 220V available on its own relay, either can work. If I go this route, I'm thinking 110V because it allows more flexibility; I'll have an outlet connected to the output of the relay, and just plug the Stenner into that. The EasyTouch will ensure it doesn't activate without the main pump.