New Pool owner with a simple question

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summron

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Feb 8, 2016
9
Meridian, Idaho
We just bought a new house with a pool and spa. Since it is winter here in Idaho the pool is closed so my question is about the spa. I took some water into the pool store to test and it showed the pH is above 8.6 and it did not test chlorine because they said with that high of pH the computer would not test chlorine. He told me to add 1 cup muriatic acid every day until the pH comes down. I have since read a bit on line and from what I see it indicates that I need to get the FC levels down before I worry too much about the pH. I am looking for some direction on what to do.

If I test using the test strip the FC is a dark purple which indicates at least a FC level > 10 and the pH is a light purple which is not even on the chart.

So I really need to know should I work on the FC first or the pH?
 
Hi and welcome to TFP. :wave: Well, let me prepare you for what will sound like a broken record - having the proper test kit. :) The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 or Taylor K-2006) is the foundation of your pool care. Why these kits? We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

If your pH is truly that high, use muriatic acid to bring it back down to the mid-7s as soon as possible. But first make sure your FC isn't too high (over 10) or it will give a false pH reading. By the way, you don't have to wait a full day between additions. With pump running, add your chemical slowly and wait about 30 minutes, then check/add again as necessary. Same goes for liquid chlorine (regular bleach) if that's how you sanitize your spa. Never add bleach and acid together though - separate by 30 minutes. Since you have a SWG, bleach may be "N/A" most of the time.

Again, welcome! If you have more questions, please ask. We'll be around. :)

Remember, always test FC and CYA and balance them as noted on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart for your SWG pool. That is very important to prevent algae once the water starts to warm-up.
 
summron said:
We just bought a new house with a pool and spa. Since it is winter here in Idaho the pool is closed so my question is about the spa. <snips>
So I really need to know should I work on the FC first or the pH?
Click to expand...

Without knowing what the chlorine level is, we can't say for sure that your pH comes first, or not. OTOH, I kinda got lost in your plumbing. Can you operate the spa separate and apart from the pool? The water needs to be moving, but I don't want to suggest anything that might de-winterize your pool.......
 
You'll definitely want the proper test kit to validate all your readings - especially chlorine. The paper strips are really not good to place trust on. Remember, if your FC is really high (over 10) it will give a false (high) pH reading, so you'll want to know your true FC reading first. A local OTO test kit will show you have "some" chlorine available, but nothing will read accurately other than a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006. As for pH tests, in a pinch, some folks get-by with a simple 5-way test kit (drops) like from Wal-Mart of your local store to confirm pH.
 
summron, ewkearns is absolutely correct. Just like when we are doing a "SLAM", if the chlorine is too high (over 10) it sends a false reading of high pH. Sorry I didn't mention or catch that earlier. I guess my head still hurts from the Superbowl. :hammer: Once you are sure your FC is about 9 ppm or less, you can be confident of your pH test and adjust accordingly. I made a couple updates to my posts earlier to be more clear.
 
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