I have an inground pool with about 30 pop up in-floor cleaners. It is an A & A system over 2o years old. I want to remove all pop ups and the water valve and have new gunnite surface applied. What is the proper way to remove and seal each cleaning head? How should I replumb to make it more efficient without the in-floor system?
How to Remove Inground Cleaning System
- Thread starter jabo1
- Start date
Welcome to TFP! I'm sure someone will be along shortly to help you out with capping off your plumbing. You will find the people here ready and willing to help!
We have opted not to have an in floor system and are going with a robot instead. How were you planning on cleaning your pool?
We have opted not to have an in floor system and are going with a robot instead. How were you planning on cleaning your pool?
I wonder if your best solution is to let sleeping dogs lie,,,,simply shut off the suction source and let the heads remain.
Removing the heads and doingt a nice job of sealing off all 30 heads AND making it look presentable would be no easy task.
Removing the heads and doingt a nice job of sealing off all 30 heads AND making it look presentable would be no easy task.
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,204
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
For clarification, when you say a new gunite surface will be applied, are you saying a new plaster or pebble finish for the whole pool will be part of the project? If so, that may change the thought above?
You have some options:
1. Do nothing and just don't use the system. Least expensive and surely the simplest.
2. Remove the heads and plug the lines serving the pool flush with the pool surface. Generally simple but end up with spots over the pool floor.
3. Remove the heads and take the lines back seal and patch over the locations. Requires a really good plaster guy and some luck that he matches the plaster .
4. Same as 3 but replaster whole pool.
I would be talking to a few plaster contractors and see what their bids are. Its basically a replaster of the pool. Any patching of the structure would be with some cement not gunite.
1. Do nothing and just don't use the system. Least expensive and surely the simplest.
2. Remove the heads and plug the lines serving the pool flush with the pool surface. Generally simple but end up with spots over the pool floor.
3. Remove the heads and take the lines back seal and patch over the locations. Requires a really good plaster guy and some luck that he matches the plaster .
4. Same as 3 but replaster whole pool.
I would be talking to a few plaster contractors and see what their bids are. Its basically a replaster of the pool. Any patching of the structure would be with some cement not gunite.
after plugging all pop ups, a new gunite surface with tiles around perimeter will be applied. I am subcontracting so I need to be the onsite engineer.
I will have contractor replaster entire pool with new tile, etc. I want to know which cement is best for patching each hole left by pop up cleaners.
Are you going to doing the patching or have a contractor do it.
The real issue is not what exact cement but surface prep. You can't just cut off the heads and pour concrete down the lines, because its doubtful the concrete would adhere to the lines. You need to remove at least an inch of the plumbing if you can and fill with concrete back about 10 to 12 inches. Just about any high strength concrete will do. Then patch with plaster or replaster pool.
I would talk with your plaster contractor about what he would recommend. He is going to be warrantying the finish so he should get some input.
The real issue is not what exact cement but surface prep. You can't just cut off the heads and pour concrete down the lines, because its doubtful the concrete would adhere to the lines. You need to remove at least an inch of the plumbing if you can and fill with concrete back about 10 to 12 inches. Just about any high strength concrete will do. Then patch with plaster or replaster pool.
I would talk with your plaster contractor about what he would recommend. He is going to be warrantying the finish so he should get some input.