Anyone ever tried this SWG?

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restoman

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
168
Murrieta, CA
My 2005 Turbo-Cell T-Cell-15 just died (yes, I got a lot of years out of the old girl!) and I need to get a replacement. Prices for the Hayward is a little on the steep side, but I found this "generic" one on ebay for a lot less with a 5 year warranty!

Hayward Aquarite T-15 Generic Replacement Cell - 15ft cord - 5 YR Warranty

Anyone ever had any experience with this cell, and if so, what was the outcome?

Thanks
Ed
 
I got 7+ years out of my last Hayward T-15 cell and it cost me $300 to replace it with a genuine Hayward T-15 cell. That makes my annual cost about $40. No way would I ever risk buying an off brand replacement in an effort to save a few dollars.

Even at $400 a genuine T-15 cell works out to $53 per year.
 
I wouldn't go near that eBay deal or seller. JMHO


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Thanks guys. Your input is much appreciated.

On a related note, can a SWG all of a sudden start working again??? A few days ago when I posted the above question, my salt was reading 2400 and the "Check Cell" light and the "Check Salt" light was on. (My water sample results from my local Leslie's Pool said the salt was at 3500) I took the SWG to Leslie's and they tested it for me. It failed. However, this morning I went out and looked at the reading and it's now 3000! And it says "Generating" with NO "Check Cell" light!! So what the heck!? Is it now working again or is this just sporadic readings from a dead cell? I guess to be sure I should take it back to Leslie's for another test, but this has me baffled! I would think a dead cell would just stay at 2400 for my salt reading. Maybe even go lower.

Ed
 
I don't know the exact temperature, but I DO know it was d@mn cold!!! Probably around 40 degrees. And right now it's showing the water temperature as being 56 degrees. AND, the salt level has now risen to 3100! So you may be on to something.

Ed
 
You're right. I just dug out my Aqua Rite operators manual and it says it stops generating when the water temperature is below 50 degrees (the "Generating" light flashes). However, this wouldn't explain why the cell failed the test when I took it to Leslie's. Also, their water report showed I had the following:

Free Available Chlorine - 0
Total available chlorine - 0
Salt - 3500
Calcium hardness - 410
Cyanuric acid - 30
Total alkalinity - 80
PH - 7.9
Phosphates - 250

So going by this, I'm assuming I still have a dead cell because I have ZERO chlorine, right?

Ed
 
Once my water temp drops below 60, I shut down the SWG and use bleach to chlorinate. As far as the readings from Leslie's, I believe nothing that any pool store says. For advice and expertise I depend on TFP, for test results, I have my trusted TF-100 test kit.
 

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No, because I'm color blind I don't have any kits. I can't tell the differences in the small color changes in the charts the kits have. I have to rely on Leslie's for their read outs.

I wish someone would make a kit for us color blind folks!!

One of you smart pool guys should be able to figure something out for us!! AND, you'll make millions!!! There's a LOT of color blind men out there!

Ed
 
Most of the test are titration tests. Instead of judging subtle color differences, you count the number of drops until there is a dramatic change. Most (even with a degree of color blindness) can do the majority of tests. The exception is the pH test, and for that I recommend purchase of a pH meter. They are inexpensive and pretty accurate.
 
I would not assume the pool stores tests were wrong, it does not surprise me you would have zero chlorine if your salt water generator was not working due to low temperatures.


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Absolutely, you need proper sanitation all the time. I'm not sure how your chemistry is, but if it requires 5 ppm of sanitizer that that's what you need to maintain. It probably will not take near as much chlorine in the winter to maintain that number but nevertheless you still need to maintain the proper levels of sanitizer. Somebody with much more experience may have something to add, but I am pretty sure that is correct.


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Yes, although it's not quite as critical that the proper level is maintained.

1. There is little to no growth of algae at the lower water temps.
2. No one is going to get sick from swimming in water that isn't properly sanitized.
 
We're having a heat wave in So Cal (in the upper 80's for the next several days), so I wanted to start getting a handle on this. The air temp (2:00 west coast time) is 84 and the water temp is 59. The salt content now says 3200, so it's coming up slowly!!

Ed
 
Ok, I just had my water tested again (Leslie's) and everything looks good except my CYA. It's only 20 and it needs to be at 80. What do you guys use for conditioner? That stuff they sell at Leslie's (PhosFree) is really expensive!

Here's todays results:

Free Available Chlorine - 3
Total Available Chlorine - 3
Salt - 3700 (High, but hopefully we'll get some rain soon to dilute it!! We're still in a bad drought here in So Cal so I really don't want to put the hose in there!)
Calcium Hardness - 330
Cyanuric Acid - 20
Total Alkalinity - 80 (right on the edge so I may have to bring that up a little)
PH - 7.5
Phosphates - 100 (right on the edge so I may have to bring that down a little)

This is MUCH improved over last weeks readings, and the only thing I did was add 2 gallons of Clorox (one last weekend and one on Wednesday) and a half gallon of muriatic acid last Saturday night.

Ed
 

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