PH adjustment not working

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M

mbeck5

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May 16, 2014
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Dallas, Tx
Good morning. Have been using TFP for almost 2 years with great success - This morning, my readings were

ph - 7.3
fc - 5
cc - 0
ta - 75
ch - 225
cya - 25 -30

My concern is that the poolmath page is giving me a corrosive reading, kind of scary. Yesterday my ph was 7.3 and I added 60 oz of washing soda per poolmath but as you can see there is no change. I am uncertain if the temperature input on poolmath is the water temperature you are testing at or the pool temperature. This morning my pool was 50 and I warmed the water to 72 before testing. Not sure what I should do at this point. It seems from playing with the inputs, raising the ph is my only choice. Appreciate any advice!!
 
Use the pool temperature in Pool Math.

Did you pre-disolve the washing soda in a bucket of water before you put it in the pool?

I have to ask, the pump is ruining, correct?

Just bringing the CH up to about 300 will take you out of the corrosive range, but I agree bringing up the pH will help more. I would probably recommend borax rather than washing soda as borax has less effect on TA. Borax is available as 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.

How are you getting all the "5" results (TA/CH/CYA) when none of those tests in your K-2006 reads to that level?
 
Tim, thanks for your reply. The pump is running, I just checked!! On TA I am reading the color change at 70 but adding another drop makes it brighter so I assume 75. On CH I used 10 ml water and got 9 drops x 25 for the change and on CYA, I use the big tube and slide because I have great difficulty with this measurement and it is slightly easier to read for me. Hope that makes sense.

Also, what is the best way to bring the CH up? Appreciate your help.
 
On TA I am reading the color change at 70 but adding another drop makes it brighter so I assume 75.
Click to expand...
ALL drops based test should be performed thus...

Add drops one at a time until the last drop you add makes NO further color change of any kind. Subtract that last drop that made no difference and the result is the endpoint of your test.

Don't change that CH much at all.....it will continue to accumulate in most pools.

Ph will naturally rise as well.

Don't be a slave to CSI.......many of us don't use it. Be a slave to staying within the suggested guidelines on TFP and your pool will be fine.

In short, I would add not more than 25-50 ppm CH (using Calcium Chloride) and leave everything else alone.
 
Did you pre-disolve the washing soda in a bucket of water or is it sitting on the bottom of the pool?

Your TA would be 80 as you should add drops one at a time until you observe no further color change.

I didn't think the Taylor 4088 slide Cylinder had "5" readings, does yours? If not then just round up to the next number.

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool. My Lowes & Home Depot both carry it ins the outside garden area. If you go the deicer route, read the ingredients as some are not calcium chloride.
 
Tim and Duraleigh - thanks for the clarification and advice. I added enough calcium chloride to raise the reading about 30 points, went to the pool store, Home Depot and a couple of hardware stores only had mixes with calcium chloride. The washing soda was completely dissolved, I learned that from an earlier mistake. The CSI kind of shook me up but still not sure why the PH didnt go up. Will let you know what happens on Monday. Unfortunately have to leave town for the weekend. Appreciate everyones help.
 
duraleigh said:
ALL drops based test should be performed thus...

Add drops one at a time until the last drop you add makes NO further color change of any kind. Subtract that last drop that made no difference and the result is the endpoint of your test.

Don't change that CH much at all.....it will continue to accumulate in most pools.

Ph will naturally rise as well.

Don't be a slave to CSI.......many of us don't use it. Be a slave to staying within the suggested guidelines on TFP and your pool will be fine.

In short, I would add not more than 25-50 ppm CH (using Calcium Chloride) and leave everything else alone.
Click to expand...

Is this true with all tests? keep adding until there is absolutely no change? I have often wondered about this.


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Ok, here are the numbers today and the CSI tells me there is potential to be corrosive to plaster but based on the previous threads I will ignore that(unless directed otherwise) Pool water temp was 48 and I warmed the water to 72 before testing.

FC - 5
CC - 0
PH -7.4
TA - 70
CH - 275
CYA - 30
 
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