My 1st test result with Tailor K2006

Dec 30, 2015
31
San Jose, CA
Hello
I used newly arrived Tailor K2006 to test my pool today. How does it look?
  • FC: 4.8
  • CC:0.2
  • PH:8 (I am not sensitive to color, it is close to 8 or just a little 8+)
  • TA: 100
  • Calcium Hardness: 100
  • Cyanic Acid: Failed. I followed the instructions, but the "should-be cloudy" solution was not cloudy at all, it was very clear, and when I transferred the solution to the small comparator tube, I could see the black dot on bottom till the tube was full of solution. What does this mean?
  • The toolkit didn't come with reagents for Sodium Chloride (Salt) Test.

Also, I have ordered the granular chlorine, by far, I only put 3 gallons of liquid chlorine (10% sodium hypochlorite) and 0.94 gallon (1 bottle) of Clorox Beach (8.25% sodium hypochlorite) in the pool. I have my vinyl replaced so the whole pool of water was fresh.

Thank you!

Kevin
 
Congrats on getting your kit! What Dave said, since this is a new fill you wouldn't have any CYA, but you will want to get some in there soon since the sun will be burning it off quite quickly.

Unless you have an SWG (I don't see one in your signature) then you don't need to test your salt level.

So you will want to get some CYA in to the water and bring your pH down. Other than that your TA and CH look just fine for a vinyl pool. Also you have the option on your chlorine test to use a 10 ml sample and just 1 scoop of powder. Then every drop of reagent is 0.5 ppm instead of 0.2 ppm. Generally this is precise enough and will save you reagents. Either works, just want to let you know you have the option.
 
How does it look?

Looks pretty good from a starting point.



Temporarily, a little bit high, but not to worry.... when you bring your CYA up a bit, you'll be very close.


Keep a close eye on this.... IMHO, this is a bit high for CYA=0 and FC=4.8


I would bring this down, with an initial target of 7.8. You might be above 8.0, but there is no way to know conclusively. Once you get on the chart shoot for something like 7.6.


In my pool a TA of about 50-60 keeps me from chasing pH. So, I think 100 is a bit high.



Most advice you get will be to ignore this figure. I keep mine around 180-200, not because I know this needs to be done, but because we have no factual information that conclusively assures me it is not needed. YMMV.

CYA Failed?

Nah, not "failed," you just need to add some.

IMHO, the ONLY reason to use granular chlorine is to add CYA. Be careful you don't overshoot your target CYA level. Granular chlorine drives it up quickly!

For the salt test you have everything you need, except:

R-0630 - Available online in 2 Oz. bottle for about $4.50
R-0718 - Available online in 3/4 ounce bottle for about $8.30
Instructions downloadable from HERE
 
Thank you all, guys.

To duraleigh: the water looks clear and good.

To Donaldson: No, I don't have a SWG. And thank you for the option, the 10mg bottle seems really small. :)

To MarianParoo: Yes, I have read the "TFPC for Beginners", to check the label to have cyanic acid.

To ewkearns: Really appreciate so many details.
 
Chiming in late, here...

The CC is probably from the chloramines used by the water company. Don't worry about it.

Using granular chlorine or pucks will raise your CYA level. It will also drive pH down and as a side benefit, lower TA a little. The downside is that it will take a long, long, time to raise CYA to a decent level at this time of year, when chlorine consumption is minimal. You won't need to add much chlorine, so you won't be adding much CYA. If you haven't already spent the money on a bucket of pucks, don't. Adjust pH to 7.5 or so using Muriatic Acid, and then raise CYA to 40ish with plain CYA aka Stabilizer. Then for the next few months, all you need to do is vacuum the debris off the bottom once a week, and check/maintain pH and FC every other day or so. When the water warms up to above 60, then things will start to get busier, but by then you'll be an old pro at testing and using poolmath.
 
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