Bought home with a concrete pool

FloridaPoolGal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 8, 2016
119
Altamonte Springs, FL
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,

We purchased a home in May 2015 with a concrete pool which I estimate to be about 20,000 gallons. I live in the Orlando area so the pool gets lots of sun during the summer. We installed a screened enclosure that was completed in September. We had finer mesh screen installed on the top because the neighbor to the East has trees that drop leaves and long pine needles. With the finer mesh screen, we have been able to keep the leaves and the pine needles blown off but the amount of sun exposure is definitely decreased.

The home was being rehabbed Jan - April. I can see in google maps pictures the pool was a green pond while the house was unoccupied. The rehabber had the pool resurfaced (doesn't look new to me but what do I know about concrete pools) and got it looking presentable at some point. Without a screened enclosure, leaves would have been dropping into the pool and then removed by the company hired to maintain the pool. Once we moved in, we removed leaves from the pool daily. With the screened enclosure, leaves no longer fall into the pool but sometimes when it rains, there are leaves on the screen and the rain washes over them. I bring this up because we recently put phosphate remover into the pool and went through the whole filter cleaning (ran pump for 48 hours straight) goat rope. I had commented to the owner of my pool store that I had had 3 algae blooms since moving into the house in May and wondered if I was missing something. He said phosphates might be high so he had me bring in a water sample and the water turned very blue. He sold me a bottle of phosphate remover (ouch!) and I dumped it into the pool. The water immediately became opaque and the fun began. After a couple of days the water cleared and the phosphorous tested at 500 (ppm?).

I wanted to be more self-sufficient caring for our pool so I started searching and found this site. We lived in FL in 2001-2003 and built a new liner pool with a SWG, DE filter, and heat pump. It was incredibly easy to take care of. This older concrete pool is a little more complicated. Not having a SWG and not wanting to mess with liquid chlorine (I had never heard of stabilizer or CYA), I have been using Clorox stabilized pucks to chlorinate the pool until last week when I 'attended' pool school. My current measurements using a Taylor K1005 test kit are:

FC: >5 (It was 3.5-4 and I added another gallon of 5.25% bleach.)
PH: 7.6
TA: 90
CYA: 65-70 (I have a hard time with the test and now I'm out of reagents.)
CH: 300

It's possible the algae blooms were due to the chlorine being too low given my level of CYA. It appears there was quite a bit of phosphorous in the pool so that might have been a contributor. My system has an in-line feeder which I believe was being used prior to us moving into the house. I'll be giving away the rest of my chlorine pucks switching over to liquid chlorine so the CYA level shouldn't increase. Another issue is an inoperable pool light that has some green water behind the lens.

I have attached a picture of the equipment and of the pool. Sorry they are turned. I will have to learn how to rotate them to have them display properly.

With respect to the algae issue, is the answer just to keep up the chlorine level? I know I have to redo the light but the water is freezing right now!

That's all for now!
 

Attachments

  • 20160116_155711.jpg
    20160116_155711.jpg
    86.1 KB · Views: 171
  • 20160116_155736.jpg
    20160116_155736.jpg
    101 KB · Views: 168
More than likely the reason your having algae is that light with "green water" behind it...which means that's where the algae is and until you pull that light out and clean behind it the algae problem will continue. I'd recommend reaching over, pulling it out, clean behind it and SLAM your pool. once finished and you've past all 3 criteria, keep your FC level according to your CYA level...
 
I agree. You need to pull the light and clean it and the niche it fits into. IF you can pull your steps it's a good idea to check the bottom of the rungs and inside the skimmers. Those are the three main places the green likes to hide. Definitely sounds like the light is your main problem.

Depending on how many pucks you have you might want to hang on to some. They're handy if you're leaving for a few days to automatically add some FC IF you're CYA isn't too high.

Welcome to the forum :wave:

How To: Replace A Swimming Pool or Spa Light - YouTube
 
Pulling the light has me a bit intimidated but I guess I need to bite the bullet and try to fix it and clean it out. I need to watch the YouTube video again.

I purchased some SeaKlear 90-Day Algea Prevention and Remover before getting schooled. Should I throw that into the pool since it's a sunk cost?
 
Pulling the light has me a bit intimidated but I guess I need to bite the bullet and try to fix it and clean it out. I need to watch the YouTube video again.

Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

I purchased some SeaKlear 90-Day Algea Prevention and Remover before getting schooled. Should I throw that into the pool since it's a sunk cost?
The answer to that question would be NO if you are going to follow our methods. It is a copper based product. You do not want copper in your water. Take it back to the store if you can, if not give it to a friend with a pool who you really don't like.

Don't be intimidated, stick around an ask questions. How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

Until you get your kit add one bottle of concentrated bleach each day. I use either Walmart or Dollar General generic stuff.

Once you get your kit read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.
 
I know the feeling, got pool stored for years and then had to convince the GF before she's let me switch :hammer:

I'd return it.

The lights aren't that bad. Take your time and either lean over the edge or if it's warm enough, climb in. Just make sure it's switched off and I'd still find the breaker and turn it off too.
 
Hi FLPoolGal,
Welcome to TFP!

Tims post contains all of the info you need to care for your pool. Its all much easier than what you mgiht think, but judging from your post, you have learned a lot of the basics already! :)
In case you havent found it yet, here is a link to Pool Math, which an invaluable tool.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Regarding your pool light. You stated that green water is 1/2 way up the lense. Water can only be 1/2 way up the lense if water has gotten INSIDE the light fixture. It happened because of a leaky gasket. The rememdy is not pulling the light and simply cleaning it as others have posted. Most likely the water inside the light fixture has ruined the light socket and the whole fixture probably needs replaced. Only taking it out and inspecting it will confirm that though. If the socket isnt corroded or ruined, then a gasket replacement is definitely required. (sorry for the bad news).

Its easy to take out the light fixture. There is 1 screw at the 12 oclock position on the retaining ring. Take out that screw and tilt the light fixture and it will come right out.
There should be enough light cord coiled up in the light niche to allow you to set the fixture on the deck and work on it.

If the fixture needs replacing, dont freak out. Most generally, its a simple enough task that most anyone can do. Do a search on TFP for 'light fixture replacement' or some similar phrase. When it comes time to investigate that further, I would recommend starting a new thread just for that. It will make the situation more visible to everyoe on TFP who have specific experience doing it.

The answer to that question would be NO if you are going to follow our methods. It is a copper based product. You do not want copper in your water. Take it back to the store if you can, if not give it to a friend with a pool who you really don't like.

Don't be intimidated, stick around an ask questions. How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

Until you get your kit add one bottle of concentrated bleach each day. I use either Walmart or Dollar General generic stuff.

Once you get your kit read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.
 
That is such a pretty pool and area!

You are already on the right track! You found TFP to get you where you need to be!

Now for the bad news.........you HAVE to get that light out. Take a big shot of whiskey to "warm" you up and have another one ready for when you get the light out! LOL

You need to get a better test kit. That one is "okay" but it does not test as high as you need for FC. Look in my siggy for the one we use and love.

Kim
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I feel ya! We are down to 31 tonight up here! BURRRRR I put my hand in to get the skimmer basket----ouch!

That just means you will have to use more bleach to keep the outbreak at bay!

Kim (yeah I know I am wimpy about the cold!)
 
No, you are not giving me any bad news about the light fixture that I already didn't know or suspect. The algae issue was the new info although I did suspect that it was causing/aggravating algae issues in the entire pool.

During one of the pre-purchase walk-throughs of the house, the pool light was not working and we asked that it be fixed. We figured it was a burned out bulb. Well, it probably was a burned out bulb but that was not the root cause of the problem. Shortly after we moved in, the light was out again. It was then that I noticed water in the housing and looked at a few YouTube videos and the prices of new parts. Later, I noticed the water was present AND green. I also noticed some smears on the lens and retaining ring which was probably someone's half-a**ed attempt to keep the water out with some type of clear silicone caulking instead of purchasing new parts that would have properly fixed the issue versus keeping the light functioning until closing.

I don't know whether it matters much but the water is only about 3 inches deep at the bottom of the light. If you looked at the light as a clock face, you could draw a line from 7 to 5 and that would be about the top of the waterline.

I will start a new thread when I attack the project. I guess I can't make things with the light any worse than they already are and there is no electrocution danger with the breaker thrown.


Hi FLPoolGal,
Welcome to TFP!

Tims post contains all of the info you need to care for your pool. Its all much easier than what you mgiht think, but judging from your post, you have learned a lot of the basics already! :)
In case you havent found it yet, here is a link to Pool Math, which an invaluable tool.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Regarding your pool light. You stated that green water is 1/2 way up the lense. Water can only be 1/2 way up the lense if water has gotten INSIDE the light fixture. It happened because of a leaky gasket. The rememdy is not pulling the light and simply cleaning it as others have posted. Most likely the water inside the light fixture has ruined the light socket and the whole fixture probably needs replaced. Only taking it out and inspecting it will confirm that though. If the socket isnt corroded or ruined, then a gasket replacement is definitely required. (sorry for the bad news).

Its easy to take out the light fixture. There is 1 screw at the 12 oclock position on the retaining ring. Take out that screw and tilt the light fixture and it will come right out.
There should be enough light cord coiled up in the light niche to allow you to set the fixture on the deck and work on it.

If the fixture needs replacing, dont freak out. Most generally, its a simple enough task that most anyone can do. Do a search on TFP for 'light fixture replacement' or some similar phrase. When it comes time to investigate that further, I would recommend starting a new thread just for that. It will make the situation more visible to everyoe on TFP who have specific experience doing it.
 
About 30 miles from the Mouse House! I know I'm whining. Hoping that algae can't grow in the cold water. I also have to read up on the SLAM process. I'm concerned the level will take a long time to go back down and my cat drinks out of the pool. She and we will go bonkers if she is not allowed to go outside.

I'll trade temperatures. When I went out this morning it was snowing and the rain on my hot tub cover had frozen....

Plus, you are only a hop, skip and a jump from the "Mouse"
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.