Pool pump not turning on, NEW, wiring and voltage seem fine, any tips Raypak vsp

Jul 21, 2015
10
houston
My no name pool pump has been eating up capacitors the last 6 months, I had figured pump motor going out since it was a cheapo ebay one previous owners put in, so been saving for a VSP. Anyways few weeks back it just stopped all together. Tried new capacitor, nothing. NOt even a hum or click. Spun motor freely on shaft and impeller, but just nothing. So I bit bullet and bought new pump. a Raypak ps165vsp. NEW, not used or flea market, though I was missing the unions that were supposed to be in box, but anyways thats another story.

So I read manual and it's simple, black wire on l1, red/white on l2, green on ground. Well my wires going to pump are two blacks and a green. But I marked the wires as I took off old pool pump terminal and put the l1 on l1 and so on. Even new connectors, stripped back new wire, etc.

Pump powers on to show the power LED, but nothing.

Old pump was wired to be controlled by mechanical dial timers. According to manual, if wired in like that, the timer will turn pump on and the programs will start. Basically saves me the trouble of pushing "on" each day. So like I said, I wired just like the old pump (which worked fine with timers for 2 years)

But like I said, nothing, no click, no hum, nothing. The Polaris booster pump on the second timer works fine, as I checked to just see if maybe some circuit board or something fried. No wires look crispy or burnt and nothing loose.

I think I must be missing something though, I'm sure it happens a pump being bad out of box, but weird that old pump suddenly stopped and wouldn't hum or click with power supplied, especially when shaft turned freely.

The wiring comes from a 40 amp breaker. At pool equipment it goes into a gfi box, then up to an old pool equipment control connector or something. Part 1094 on grey box. Has wires coming from gfi(breaker) on bottom gangle, pump on left gangle, then to timers on right. It look like it used to have switches, relays to control air pump and things, but burnt out long time ago, so they just wire connected all the wires below to their systems. Meaning power from breaker and gfi is going directly to timer box and air pump, and wires from timer controls to pumps.
Hope that made sense, its basically what used to be an old semi control relay box is now a housing for wire junctions..I could get a new outdoor box and just put all wires inside.

Is there something in my timer for the main pool pump that would not let pump come on? But would still let it power on? Should I just run new wires from new pool pump directly to the wires coming from the breaker/gfi?

Honestly I can't tell by ear if the pool pump timer is working, I hear gears grinding but could just been the Polaris timer. If the pool pump timer is not moving, would that keep the pool pump from coming on even if I turn switch on manually in timer box and press power on pump?

Just wondering what I coudl have missed
 
Esresto,

I'm not sure I fully understand all your comments, but here are my thoughts..

1. Your new pump runs off of 220 Volts. Was your old pump set up to run 115 VAC or 220 VAC?
2. You can't rely on an LED being on/off to indicate for sure what voltage is being delivered to your pump.
3. You need to use a volt meter and measure the voltage between the two black wires you connected to your new pump. If you get a reading of 220 volts (or anything close), then the problem should be with your pump or how it is set up.
4. If you do not get 220 volts at the pump, then I would check the output of the 40 amp circuit breaker and ensure that you have 220 volts there. If you do, then the problem has to be the GFI "Box" or timers.
5. Since I have no idea what kind of GFI system you have, nor the type of timer(s) you have, I'm hesitant to suggest any specific troubleshooting steps.

Suggest you post pictures of your GFI "Box" and Timer wiring...

Jim R.
 
Ok.
Old pump was 230.
The gfi is just a gfi outlet that is also out by equipment.

I tested power coming to:
Pump timers position 1 and 3-incoming
Pump timers position 2 and 4-supply to pumps
At pumps directly. ..l1 and l2

All show 230-240 volts. Pump supply shows volts when switch turned on. 1 and 3 show volts when off. All makes sense appears ok.

However still no working filter pump. It's getting 240 on those wires. New pump just powers on,that's it. Old one nothing,no sound nothing.

Booster pump. Works perfect,timers perfect. Air blower perfect.

I even tried yesterday of bypassing pump timer for new variable speed pump and wired from house supply to pump. Same as with timer switch. Pump power lights on, but no turn on.
 
What other lights, if any, come on the display? Have you tried the override button? Can you hold down the speed button and see the selected speed LED moves up? I assume you have hit the Start button.??

If you still can't get it to work, I'd call Raypak and see what they say first, just to make sure we are not missing the obvious.

Jim R.
 
I agree w Jim in calling Raypak. But, to make sure all of your electrical is working, you can try a couple of other things:

1. If you can gain access to another 220V pump that is known to work for sure, and you hook it up to you wiring and it works, then you know it's a bad pump, or
2. Take your pump to a known wiring set-up that is correct, then test it there. If it works, then it's your wiring set-up. If it does not work and you wire it exactly the same way you wired the pump at your place, then it could be the pump is either bad or it is not being wired correctly, which would lead back to calling Raypak.

Some of the above is practical and some are less, but a call to Raypak tech support is in order indeed. After you call them or get it fixed, pls post back & let us know what was the problem?

Good luck,
tstex
 
Yea I called Raypak a few minutes ago and asked technical. Told them what it's doing and you guys need to hear this and remember....his words "Well it sounds like we need to get you a new pump out there immediately. It should do 'something' so it's definitely not right, sorry."

This was a new old stock pump, still new, just had been sitting. And they had zero issues or hassles on warrantying their product. So def good to hear that from an American company these days. Hopefully will be here soon this week, I am worried about my pool not circulating.

Although I am the luckiest pool owner around, our pool always stays near perfect on chemistry, with little effort. I guess do to the pool being "inside" the footprint of our home. Our home is a C shape and pool is in the inner courtyard. Wind barrier and shade, etc.

10 days of no pump circulating and my ph is 7.7, CL is 4 and TA 80 CA 260

I have a robot, Aquabot, cleaner that said in manual is circulates the water as good as a pump during a 1.5 hour cycle, so that has been helping I guess. But can't wait to see a VSP in action on ours. Should be able to leave on low setting all the time with the way ours stays.

Thanks for advice, I figured I'd checked it all right, just was hard to fathom a brand new dud, but guess it happens.
 
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