Swim pure plus comes on, turns off

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J

Jtl323

0
Sep 19, 2015
26
Fl
Ok, I have seen similar threads on here, with possible solutions of replacing the thermistor, but it seemed that those people that fixed their problem with that solution were getting no power whatsoever .

Problem: noticed today pool was greening , was surprised since the swim pure supposedly said my salt was at 3600 ( hasn't changed in a while).
Looked at control unit and the "power" and "generating" would come on, stay on for 4-5 seconds, you would hear an audible click , and the lights would go out. Wait 30 seconds and it comes back on again, and repeat ad nauseam. When the lights go off however, there IS still power to the unit, because I can cycle through the diagnostics. The cell voltage display will count up while the lights are off, then when it turns on the voltage drops very low, then repeats. Appears that there is no cell current based on the diagnostic display, regardless of whether generating light is on at the moment or not. Instant salt is minuscule. Just replaced flow switch within last 6 months. I pulled the cell off (t-9) and it looks like it is perfectly clean, though it's got to be a few years old ( we bought house one year ago with this cell in use already).

So..... It has power, it's turning itself off and on at specific intervals, so it doesn't seem like a short . Is it the cell or this elusive thermistor? I don't have money to just wildly nilly buy a cell if that's not problem. I can *probably* replace a part if all it requires is a bit of soldering .

Advice please?
 
JamesW said:
Can you post the diagnostics?

Are any of the warning lights on?
Click to expand...


No no warning lights at all.

3600
80
voltage hits about 20 before it comes on and drops down to 1 or 2
0 current
100p
-0
al-0
r 1.58
t-9

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And even though instant salinity is a 0 there is no "low salt" warning light. I have not had my water tested to see what is correct and what isn't .
 
I can't help with the SWG, but if it truly started greening you want to SLAM with liquid to get it back in shape. Which also points out one of the core values around here - regular accurate testing.
 
Well....at least it's not the cell then. Seems like it is fairly easy for even a rookie to replace this part ?
Anything I should know?

Thanks for the definitive answer! I'm off to purchase a solder gun it appears
 
It's not too difficult. Get a desoldering tool to suck up the used solder. There's a bulb type and a plunger type.

1) Cut off the old thermistor at the top of the legs.
2) Desolder each leg separately.
3) Melt the old solder over each hole and suck it up with the desoldering tool.
4) Cut the new thermistor's legs down some (They're a bit too long and the front panel will hit the thermistor if it's sticking up too high. )
5) stick the legs through the holes and solder the new thermistor in place.

Once you get the new part in, the voltage should be 30 to 32 when off and 24 to 29 when on. To check the cell, check the instant salt and compare it to the actual salt level as verified by a reliable test. I would suggest the k-1766.
 
It's a bad thermistor. This is a common problem for these units. It's pretty much the only weak spot they have.

As far as the cell, you need to check the instant salt againt the actual salt once the thermistor is fixed. The cell might be bad or underperforming.
 

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Don't overlook Tim5055's advice.....your SWG, even when it's fixed, will not easily overcome your green pool.

I would get that pool cleaned right back up and then allow your newly repaired SWG to keep it that way.
 
Ok, so I ordered a new thermistor, and after seeing how basic my soldering skills were, took the board to a computer repair place and let them soldered the piece on. Just got the board hook back up finally today, turned it on, and .....

And I don't know. The display is reading COLD because the water temp is so cold. I've got the solar heater going and trying to bring the water temperature up a few degrees. The part that worries me is that the "no flow" light is on. Is that normal since water is so cold? The water is obviously flowing, the returns are all working good, and the flow switch was working fine ( it was only a few months old before this issue ) before I pulled the board out.

do I have reason to be worried, is there more problems in my future, or should it resolved when the water temperature improves?
 
Most likely, the no flow condition is just a bad connection. Try unplugging the flow sensor and reinserting it. The cold indicator is normal and will go away with warmer water.

What are the current diagnostic readings?
 
JamesW said:
Most likely, the no flow condition is just a bad connection. Try unplugging the flow sensor and reinserting it. The cold indicator is normal and will go away with warmer water.

What are the current diagnostic readings?
Click to expand...

I'll try that when I get home. I'll also post diagnostics , I left for work after installing it this morn.

thx
 
Ok guys, so I was out of town, but still getting no flow even though water has warmed nicely now. Here's the numbers :

3600
69
33
0
52p
-0
Al-0
r 1.58
T-9

I removed my flow switch and reinserted . Upon examining the switch , it appears....melted. On top where the wire is, there is a furrow melted into the top where the wire was touching and discoloration to the wire. Obviously switch needs to be replaced ( just did in September) , but is there an underlying cause that will do this again , or was it because of the other piece that did this? I'm gonna try and upload a photo ...

- - - Updated - - -

image.jpg
 
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