MiniMax NT help

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Summoner12

0
Nov 16, 2015
87
Riverside, CA
I have just moved to a house with a Pentair MiniMax NT pool heater. When I click on the heater I get all the lights on, even the flame LED comes on for a short time, and then turns off. Then the service light comes on. The blower continues to run, but no heat comes out.

I am a mechanic, and I have read and seen some videos of how you can take the heater apart. I am willing to tear into it, but would like to know if anyone has any tips or tricks. I am assuming the heater has been fully neglected for years, it looks pretty rough.

I got a chance to open up the heater during the day today and looked inside. It looks like a furry little friend might be taking refuge in our heater box. Here are some photos of the setup.





 
Check ALL of the wiring to make sure the fury friends didn't eat some as they like to do. Remove the top and check the air tube that goes from the fan housing to the air switch as they like to chew that as well and would cause a similar symptom that you are seeing now. I would also maybe pull the burner tray of you can and make sure they didn't build nests on top of the burners. If they did and the unit actually lit, FIRE. Rodents can make a big mess of things.
 
Today I did some tests. I checked the pressure switch. It cycles when I power the pump on and off. The blower switch also cycles.

I here the the gas come on, but just doesn't light. There is a pair of wires coming from a small device just above the heater jets. I assume this is the igniter or the feedback sensor for the jets being lit. There were some wires chewed on. Nothing seems totally chewed through. But I'll replace wires where needed.
 

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Alright, update time!

So I got the igniter tonight. I popped the bad boy in and, no ignition. :goodjob:

SO, going off what the pool guy told me, the board being bad, I did some searching around. I found one on Amazon, it'll be here Saturday. Hoping this is the end of the road on this issue!:cool:
 
Before when I was testing the outputs I got 130vac from the igniter output. Should I see 230v? I'm not sure if the overall power to the heater. I'll double check it. I did not watch the heater get hot last night. I suppose I could turn off the gas and try watching it to see if it glows. I have an infrared temp gun, I can watch to see how hot it gets.

All of of the wires need to be redone. Thinking I'll get some wire from lowe's and bust out the label maker and get to work.

The board was $82 shipped from Amazon. It looks pretty terrible, so I don't trust it. I've red they're pretty fickle.

I will look into the igniter box more tonight to confirm it isn't an issue. I've seen those for roughly $130 on Amazon. I hope that isn't in the mix of issues.
 
Constant fan with no ignition suggests bad air switch or cracked broken tube. May even have a spider in the tube or port on the fan housing.

Fan times out, Check for glowing igniter (120V).

Order of ignition:

Call for heat (thermostat).
Proves safety circuit (less air/vent switch).
Fan starts (pre-purge).
Air switch proven.
Voltage sent to HSI.
Voltage sent to gas valve.
Heater fires (hopefully)
Flame rectification occurs.
Voltage to HSI ceases.
 
Pool Clown said:
Constant fan with no ignition suggests bad air switch or cracked broken tube. May even have a spider in the tube or port on the fan housing.

Fan times out, Check for glowing igniter (120V).

Order of ignition:

Call for heat (thermostat).
Proves safety circuit (less air/vent switch).
Fan starts (pre-purge).
Air switch proven.
Voltage sent to HSI.
Voltage sent to gas valve.
Heater fires (hopefully)
Flame rectification occurs.
Voltage to HSI ceases.
Click to expand...

I get all of the lights on, but when the 'heat' comes on and is on for a short time, you hear the gas on, then no ignition, gass turns off.

Today I watched the igniter, it never got warm or output voltage.

I am going to rewire the whole thing. The wires are all so messed up. Half the wires coming out of the power box are chewed up.

The new control board came and all still functioned the same. The 'new' board had four of it's LED's broken off. The board wasn't packed well. Face down with pillow packaging on top of it.... Come on amazon. Everything functions as it did before. except I am not sure what LED's are on, but the sequence is the same without all the jitters. the old board was resetting itself if you looked at the wires wrong. The board may​ not be the issue, but I am not returning it until the wiring is better.
 

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