Balance pool chemicals

Jump to latest Follow Reply
P

Paulette

0
LifeTime Supporter
Nov 10, 2015
105
Eagle Point Oregon
Hi, well I think I finally got help and learned how to post a new thread. So here goes. Pool is 1 yr old, Quartz plaster in ground gunite or shot crete, I used the Colorq pro 7 test kit and have ordered a salt reader from tftestkits.net. here are my readings:
FC 4.35
Total C 4.48
PH 7.6
TA 81
CH 548 has been rising since 11-18-15 was 423
CYA 30
Pool temp 43
I think my Ch is very high and TA low
 
Hi, This Helps, we put the dummy cell in SWG about a month ago and was wondering if should use readings for a non salt pool now. Pool store wanted me to increase the alkalinity when she was here yesterday and saw my reading. We have done nothing for the high CH. I am not sure what you mean by "have you added high CH fill"? Here are my readings for today, should I now increase TA and should I lower the PH first. Also should I add the TA directly to the deep end and brush the pool with filter running and how long to run filter, I think it said 24hrs . THANK YOU
FC 4.37 TA 79
Total Chlorine 4.40 CH 522
CYA 34 pool themp 48
PH 7.7
 
Your TA is fine. Check out Pool School - Recommended Levels Once you're running the SWG again in the spring, you might even want the TA LOWER. No reason to add TA. TA determines how fast your pH will rise. If you start adding TA to hit some arbitrary number that the pool store wants you to hit, you'll just end up lowering the pH more often, driving the TA down again to a level that allows a more stable pH. TA and pH are directly tied together.

As far as high CH fill, we're wondering what the CH of your fill water is at. If you added water from a high CH source, that's why it has increased. If not, it's likely being leeched from your plaster or increasing because of fill and evaporation.

The most important number for pool plaster is not just one number alone, it's the combination of all your levels which gives your overall CSI, calcium saturation index. This number tells you if you're likely to have a stable environment for your plaster, you're likely to etch plaster or if you're likely to have scaling. A CSI between -0.6 and 0.6 is necessary. The closer to 0, the better. Normally your CSI can be kept in a good place simply by managing your pH properly, even with very high CH. Use Pool Math: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html and all your test readings to determine your CSI and look at how adjusting only the pH can keep your CSI neutral.
 
Please click on the link and read the recommended levels. Pool School - Recommended Levels Where are you getting the 80-120 number? It may have been an old guideline but they have been revised recently.

Also, they are guidelines, especially with TA. Maintain a TA that allows you the most stable pH. For some it will be 90. For some it will be 60. It's only a bad situation when your TA dips below 50-60 because TA is a measure of the buffering capacity of the water. Its ability to "resist" rapid changes in pH.
 
Hi, I have been reading so much here and some were old posts but can not remember where I read the higher level of TA. I will stick with the SWG guideline of 60-80 I do have a printout from the PB and it said 80-120, I just looked at it again today.
Since my water temp is so cold and the salt cell has been removed would I input numbers and look at recommened levels of a non salt pool during the winter????
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thank You so much, that really helps. I do not know the CH level of the water when pool was filled. I have the original printout from the pool store which was Hardness 83 ppm that was 11-14-15. If I tested the water directly from my faucet would that help or work to answer your question.? My first test with the colorq 7 was 11-18-15 reading 423 climbed to 569 11-29-15 we had rain and drained some water last week CH today is 522. I am using puck floater since removing salt cell, and added 2 Cups liquid chlorine about 2 weeks ago. should I take the floater out and only use the liquid chlorine??? I have been thinking of ordering the TF100 but I had a very hard time matching the colors on the drop test I originally bought of course from pool store. I don't know if the TF100 is easier to match up the colors than what I have.
 
First, I would personally take the floater out and only use liquid chlorine.

Second, yes, test whatever water you use to top off the pool. That means whatever source you use to add water to the pool. An outside spigot? Let it run for a few minutes before taking a sample.

Third, is it just the color matching that is difficult for you? If so, the only test requiring color matching with the TF100 is the pH test, so that kit would be great for you!!!
 
Hi there, ok thank you. we are having rain so it may take me a day or two but I will test the CH at the spigot we used. I will also order the TF 100 soon. I did just order the salt tester. When I order the TF100 I will also get speed stir. Thank you!!
 
Awesome, Paulette! You will not regret the purchase! The sooner you order and receive it, the sooner we can REALLY get to tweaking your water!

You will rarely ever have to go to the pool store again! I only go there occasionally for a new brush or something. Ours is a mom and pop pool store and I like to support local businesses rather than buying that kind of thing on-line to save a buck...
 
Having your own test kit will save you SO much money and headache!

For the color matching I have a "trick" to help you................I use a white paper plate!

I do the PH test over my stove using my bright hood light. I hold the tube in front of the plate at about waist high. I pull the plate back and forth until I can see the color match. That has helped me quite a bit and my pool is like a jewel.

Make sure to get your test kit ASAP. That way you can start learning how to use it and have it ready when you need it come warmer weather.

Kim
 
Hi, I ordered the tf100 with speed stir this morning. I received the salt kit yesterday, plan to try it out today. I had already ordered the colorq 7 last month but after more reading decided to use both. I love the colorq but with the reviews here I am not sure if the readings are correct. It is so easy to use. Someone needs to come up with one just like it that can be trusted.
 
I am so very happy to hear this. It will be so much easier.

While you are waiting you can go get a cheap, white, plastic plate to help you do the PH test. You can use a paper plate but...I like the plastic one better as it firmer to hold up.

Kim
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply