Balance pool chemicals

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I found your post with all the info GREAT HELP. I will empty the spa and start over with your method. So glad to have all this info, you did a great job putting it all in one place, really helped me a lot, will have to reread many times but it is there. All I can say is THANK YOU!
 
I just read a post from Catanzaro and wanted to ask a question, was not sure if it was ok to ask in reply to that thread or go here?? so here goes. You said you get a scum line after a heavy rain, we noticed that after a heavy rain and then drain off a few inches we had a white line, have been wondering what it is???? I tried a pumice stone, the line is on the tile around the whole pool. The pumice did seem to take it off but with a lot of scrubbing and hard to do in the cold weather and out of the pool, pool temp 42, thought it might be calcium but how could it get there in just a couple of days, also thought it might be salt, any help would be appreciated.
 
I tested my water today and here are my reading:
fc 4.5 taylor
ph 7.7 used taylor kit and color Q to verify very hard to match colors
ta 80 taylor
ch 400 to 425 taylor
cya 32 color Q
temp 41
salt 3000 taylor test
I then went to pool math and wanted to know why when I put the salt reading at 3000 says potential to become corrosive and without salt it is balanced. The SWG is disconnected for winter so do not know if should put in salt reading to get CSI
Also my post #42 should that post have been made directly to Catanzaro? I am still learning and trying not to post in wrong place or hijack anything. Thank You
 
Yes, you need to put your salt numbers in if you have salt in the water. The reason why salt changes the CSI is a bit of technical/mathematical chemistry discussion. Basically, having salt in the water affects some of the chemical parameters that you normally think of as constants. An example would be freezing point. Pure water with no salt freezes at 32F. When you add salt to water, it's freezing point gets depressed to a temperature lower than 32F which depends on the concentration of the salt water mixture. The same is true for other chemical reactions and parameters that go into calculating CSI. Some of the "constants" used in the calculation are not actually constant but depend on the concentration of salt in the water.

I won't labor the point any further except to say that, if you have salt in your water (and everyone, in fact, does), then you put that value into PoolMath.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Thank You JoyfulNoise, That helps. Do I need to worry about the corrosion with the salt reading???, don't know what else to do as numbers looked good to me but maybe they are not??? Also I will try to find Catanzaro's answer to the post, it was in regards to my question in my post #42 if anyone knows what would cause that white line so fast??
 
Paulette said:
Thank You JoyfulNoise, That helps. Do I need to worry about the corrosion with the salt reading???, don't know what else to do as numbers looked good to me but maybe they are not??? Also I will try to find Catanzaro's answer to the post, it was in regards to my question in my post #42 if anyone knows what would cause that white line so fast??
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When I put your numbers in I only get a CSI of -0.31, that is barely over the line of the warning "Potential to become corrosive". The key word in that warning is "potential". You don't have anything to worry about, your plaster is not going to etch away. If you let your pH come up to 7.8 and keep it there, your water will be perfectly fine.
 

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JoyfulNoise, THANK YOU, that is a big relief. This site has been a life or should say pool saver. Still learning with everyone's help here. It has been a rough year with this pool. No help with pool from builder so was relying on pool store until I found this site!!! NO MORE PS yipee
 
Paulette said:
JoyfulNoise, THANK YOU, that is a big relief. This site has been a life or should say pool saver. Still learning with everyone's help here. It has been a rough year with this pool. No help with pool from builder so was relying on pool store until I found this site!!! NO MORE PS yipee
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Yep. Few PBs are helpful in the out years. I'm actually impressed with the PB that did our pool as he calls me every six months or so to check in and see if I, or should I say my pool needs anything. I think I'm on the last year of the equipment warranty so after that's up then anything that needs replacing will come out of pocket. But I like talking to him as he's a nice guy and tells me all about the fancy pool contracts he has going on. He's a small builder here in Tucson, does maybe 10+ pools per year so he's very customer focused.

Anyway, hang in there and keep asking questions. Eventually pool care will become boring and routine ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Good move on keeping your question here on your own thread although it would have fix on that thread. It is just easier to keep your questions on your thread so as it helps us remember what you are dealing with.

Have you tried the vit. c trick on the line?

Kim
 
I was thinking of trying the vitamin c and I just read a post from Tim5055 about the "Purity Pool OS Out Spot Stain Remover, I don't think I have his same issue, but it sure looks like a great way to clean the tile with acid. The water temp is only 41 so can't do too much right now, just getting the water to test is painfully cold on the arm.. The pumice stone did help remove it, then it rained again and we drained a couple inches off and there was a line again, it gets there so fast, only a couple of days. Just can not figure out what it is.
 
okay lets see if we can figure it out.........

Run a FULL set of numbers. Make sure to include the CH.

Take and share a picture of the line (don't drop the camera in the water LOL)

Rub a white towel in it and see if you can get any off and show us that picture.

Is there any way you can get some to do some "tests" on?

Kim
 
I can not do test today, but will work on tomorrow. The line is all the way around the pool as if someone drew a chalk line. I hate to say this but I have never sent pictures on line, I do NOT know how, sorry. I know the pictures really help a lot as I have seen it as I read so much here trying to learn.
 
I have my #'s for today:
FC 4
CC 0
PH 7.7
TA 90
CYA about 20 I let water sit in house for about an hour to warm up
Temp 41
CH 375

I do not have any stabilizer on hand, should I put in a puck?? I have one left from last winter, or go to pool store THANK YOU
 
I would save the puck for when you go out of town for the weekend.

You can get stabilizer at Lowes or Home Depot or even Walmart during the season. Make sure to check prices. SOME times it is cheaper at the PS.

Kim
 

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