New IG pool closing

[John Rock]

Hi!

I finally re-did my pool this automn and recently closed it. I brought the water level down 4 inches under the returns and tried to blow the air with my shop vac.

However, after draining and disconnecting filter/pump, I noticed that the water was still draining. Initally I thought it was because my filter/pump are lower than the pool, but it was weird because my hoses where coming from above pool water levels. When I closed the valves and than reopened, it stopped, so I guess it was a vaccum effect.

The question : what do I need to do to make sure nothing freezes and bursts?! It seems like there's always some water in the bottom of the skimmer, which I don't understand. The drain and skimmer now have a hose each joining at pump, so I would figure that closing the drain hose would allow to empty skimmer hose, but I don't think it's working like that. What am I missing? Just don't want to beak my new pool! Also, the new returns have an external thread, so my old plugs won't work. Do they make new external thread plugs that won't get caught in the ice and prevent breakage when the ice moves up and down?

Thanks!

 

[Patrick_B]

 

[Pooldoctor]

You need to provide a little more info. How did you drain it? Is your pump below the water level? Do you have two lines coming to suction side of pump or one?

It sounds like your main drain is plumbed to your skimmer and than back to the pump. If that is the case, the water will always flow up that line unless it gets plugged with foam rope and then an actual plug.

Some pictures of your equipment pad could help as well.

Read up on pool closings here, it's a very simple process.

 

[John Rock]

I drained it with the filter in waste. When the pool is full, the pump is under water level. Now with water level under returns, I'm not sure, must be close. Two suction lines : skimmer and drain. Had that changed during reno because my drain was going to skimmer before.

As for the return plugs, i think i need to remove a threaded insert that was part of the "eyeballs". What tool do you use to remove these so i can than insert regular plugs?

 

[Pooldoctor]

John, read up pool closing here. All you did was lower the water, every line still has water in it. You need to blow every line free of water back through the returns and the skimmer. As you sound very new to pools, the best advice I could give would be to get it closed professionally so you can watch and decide if you want to do it yourself or let them do it again.

 

[Catanzaro]

John:

You will need to provide us with a little more information regarding your whole system. The more detailed, the better informed members will be to guide you through the closing process.

I brought the water level down 4 inches under the returns and tried to blow the air with my shop vac.

Please advise on what you meant by "tried". Have you removed most, if not all the water in the skimmers, return jets, etc? Did you blow out the main drain and create an "air lock"? Did you winterize your filter and pump housing?

Considering you live in Canada where you have deep freezes, it is important to clear out and close the pool properly. Otherwise, you could be looking at one expensive repair. If you are not comfortable with the process, please call in a professional to close the pool. Please send us over some more information. Thank you.

 

[John Rock]

Today I had a chance to give it more time. I succeeded in sucking out all the water from the skimmer line. I then poored anti-freeze in the skimmer hole, put a piece of foam in it and plugged the hole. I then added about an inch and anti-freeze in the bottom, then used plywood to cover the whole skimmer. I need to find a big piece of styrofoam to put in it. I then added anti-freeze and plugged all returns. Finally, i blew air in the drain hose, but not sure if anything else can be done for that? Finally, I remove the ladder bolts. Of course, pumps are disconnnected and in the house, filter drained. Am I forgetting anything important?

 

[Pooldoctor]

Did you blow all lines free of water before plugging them???

 

[Catanzaro]

I then added anti-freeze and plugged all returns. Finally, i blew air in the drain hose, but not sure if anything else can be done for that?

Q: Did you blow out the returns, or simply pour antifreeze in the lines and plug everything off?
Q: How about the main drain? what is the drain hose?
Q: What exactly did you need with the plywood?

Thanks!

 

[John Rock]

Yes I blew out the returns before. For the main drain, I blew air in that line until some bubblea came out of the drain. Is that ok?

I use the plywood to limit snow/rain filling the skimmer. Good idea?

Thanks!

 

[Pooldoctor]

Yes, sounds like you did fine.

Put a gizmo or some cut up pool noodles in the skimmer, this will help when ice expansion occurs.

Drain the filter and leave the plug off it for winter.

 

[Catanzaro]

After blowing air out of the main drain, did you close the valve to create the "air lock"? If so, I would also recommend opening up the pump basket housing and plugging the MD side.

 

[John Rock]

After blowing air out of the main drain, did you close the valve to create the "air lock"? If so, I would also recommend opening up the pump basket housing and plugging the MD side.

I don't think I closed the main drain valve, should I? Is it too late or do I have to blow some air again and then quickly close the valve? As for the pump, I brought it inside the house since winters are supposed to be bad for the motor.

 

[Catanzaro]

Yes, I would recommend doing this again as you do not have to remove the cover, just listen for the bubbling effect.

After pushing air through the main drain, you will see (hear) a lot of bubbles (Like a fountain of bubbles you see at a Park). Allow the bubbling effect for 45-60 seconds and then shut off the main drain at the valve and you will hear the air suction effect (like you are building back pressure) and then quickly shut off the pump. You do not want water being sucked back to the pump, especially in Canada. In addition, open up the bump basket and place a black plug in the event the valve fails during the winter.

 

[John Rock]

Well, my pump and filter are disconnected so I can't use those anymore. My thinking was that if I leave the valve open, if some freezing occurs somewhere in the drain hose because it's too close to the surface, the ice will be able to expand without resistance. Keep in mind my valve is disconnected, lower than pool level and no water can get in. By blowing air in the hose, i was expecting remove all water in the hose that is above current pool water level, to minimize freezing.

 

[Catanzaro]

I would recommend you push air through the plumbing with an adapter (Lowe's or Home Depot or even a plumbing store) should have extensions. Push air through the system and close the valve. If you can plug the white plumbing, whether 1" or greater, that would be great. I would not take anything to chance that far below. Please keep us posted.

If you could provide us with some pictures, that would give us an idea on what else you could possibly do.

 

[Pooldoctor]

As long as the main drain line was blown, the air lock isn't needed. The water level in that line will be equal to the level in the pool. When the water freezes, the expansion will grow up the line and not expand outward and crack it. Pools in my neck of the woods rarely even get main drains blown, the water is simply allowed to fall back to the level of the pool. Closing the ball valve is all that is needed as it will allow air to escape.