reducing CYA without draining pool

Sadly the only reliable way to reduce that CYA is by draining and refilling. Supposed CYA reducer enzymes new on the market have not lived up to sales pitch.

Digital water testers have not been found in favor here at TFP due to the inconsistency in accuracy and requirements for re-calibration. There are only two test kits we consider useful and they're both drop based kits. The TF-100 sold by TFTestkits.net or the Taylors K-2006. Both include the all important FAS-DPD kit
 
Due to your location, you may find a Reverse Osmosis service in your area. As stated, the enzyme additives have not been very successful. Sadly, that leaves you the only option: a (partial) drain and refill.

If you haven't already hit Pool School, you should..... at least that will explain in detail how you got such an astronomical CYA and how to prevent that from ever reoccurring.
 
Yippee,

Thanks for the reply. I had my eye on the Tayler K-2006 as the tester I want to buy. I will drain the pool 1/2 way and make sure the Chlorine is not stabilized. My pool is beautifully clear but the pool service recommends a drain due to high CYA [150] and high Calcium [1000]. I am going to check these readings with the Tayler kit. Also read a PPOA article that indicates a low 7+ PH will tolerate high CH, helps eliminate corrosion and suppliers/consultants recommend 500 CH & higher for the new high efficiency heaters.

Chas
 
Due to your location, you may find a Reverse Osmosis service in your area. As stated, the enzyme additives have not been very successful. Sadly, that leaves you the only option: a (partial) drain and refill.

If you haven't already hit Pool School, you should..... at least that will explain in detail how you got such an astronomical CYA and how to prevent that from ever reoccurring.

EW,

Thanks for the info. I have been doing some reading of PPOA articles which chemically whizz over my head but they recommended UNSTABILIZED chlorine to avoid continuously raising the CYA which reduces the Cl potency. My pool is crystal clear. The pool service indicated a CH of 1000 and a CYA of 150. I will buy a Tayler K-2006 tester to verify readings and drain the pool, recirculate for a couple of days and retest. As for the 1000 CH, a low 7+ pH will not scale and pool equipment suppliers/ consultants recommend 500+ CH to minimize corrosion if pool uses high efficiency heaters.

Chas
 
Chas,

Welcome :wave:

Corrosion of metal heat exchangers has nothing to do with calcium hardness (CH). Metal corrosion is dominated by pH (low pH is bad) and the presence of certain anions (chlorides and sulfates) as well as dissolved oxygen levels. Leaving your pool water at low pH (7 or less) will increase the likelihood of corrosion, not decrease it.

Please read through Pool School to see what it is we teach here on TFP. Much of what the pool industry teaches is either flat out wrong or based on decade's old "conventional wisdom" that is not grounded in hard science. You'll find a lot of "information" that the various pool & spa trade associations push as "best practices" is simply false.

As for your immediate concern, you're going to need to drain your pool by more than half to get your water's CYA to a reasonable level. If water is not too expensive than draining and refilling is almost always cheaper than RO services.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 

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Keep in mind that the CYA test is only valid to 100 ppm. If you look at the viewing tube the measurement lines get closer together as the CYA goes up. You can mix 1/2 pool water with 1/2 tap water and use it as your sample to test the CYA, then double the result. It is possible your CYA is much higher than you think.
 
Cavery, please delve into reading the Pool School articles above about desired pool chemistry levels. CYA of 150 and CH of 500 is too high. Please start with this article-
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Yippie,

I have a pool service and they were recommending a pool drain to reset the CYA, CH levels. I bought the TFTest Kit TF-100 to check there claims. the 150 CYA and 1000 CH are beyond the range of the test kit but my testing indicated they are probably right. I have located a RO pool cleaning company in Tucson as I do NOT want to drain the pool. The pool was built in 68 and a new Pebble-Tec surface added ~ 5 years ago. I have only owned the property for 3 years. I do not want to drain the pool and risk structural damage. I am upgrading the Kool Deck to Travertine [placed on top of Kool Deck] and making hardscape changes. Once this is done I will have the pool cleaned using RO. I will continue to use a pool service.

Thanks,
Charles
 
PAgirl,

I don't know what FC is. I use a pool service and bought the TFTest Kit TF-100 to check the service CH, CYA values 150, 1000 respectively. They were recommending a pool drain. My testing with the TF-100 were both out of range but looked close to those extrapolated values. The pool won't be used for the next several months,am upgrading the hardscape and when finished will have an RO cleaning service in Tucson restore the stabilizer & calcium hardness values and then let the regular pool service take over. They seem to be doing a good job & are honest.

Charles
 
gwegan,

Just gave them a call. I am doing some hardscape upgrades around the pool and putting travertine on top of the Kool Deck. As soon as that is complete I will have the RO cleaner restore the chemicals. Will let you know cost & results.

Thanks,
Charles
 
Charles, are you using the pool daily in the summer time? Do you use the pool service because you don't understand the process it takes to manage a pool or just because it's easier to let someone else deal with it?

Pool School isn't a long, horrible process. Its fairly simple to grasp. Having the older pool, a new surface n upgrading to travertine and such, you may be better off just taking over since you've already thor a TF100. Having to have a complete water change in so short of time is unnecessary with the right information (that we offer in Pool School if you're willing).

You don't have to but we always encourage pool owners to be hands on and use the least amount of chemicals needed to keep their water beautiful.

Welcome to TFP. Do you have any pics to share? We'd love to see your pool.
 
FC means free chlorine. If you have time to read what was recommended, you will understand the relationship between chlorine levels and CYA. Pool companies often use chemicals that add the calcium and CYA, that is likely why yours is so high. There are ways to prevent that from happening by using bleach or a salt water generator.
 
Your only other option is to used only Cal Hypo shock to chlorinate your pool, it will come down slowly over time. There are also slow dissolving Cal-Hypo tabs that can be put into the skimmer in place of regular tri-chlor tabs.
 
Your only other option is to used only Cal Hypo shock to chlorinate your pool, it will come down slowly over time. There are also slow dissolving Cal-Hypo tabs that can be put into the skimmer in place of regular tri-chlor tabs.

We do not recommend putting any chemicals into the skimmer. Cal-hypo is not the only option for chlorine without CYA. We prefer bleach and/or liquid chlorine as the best, easiest and cheapest form of non-stabilized chlorine. More here, Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
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