Owner build Piping Diagram - please review

Heres my story. Having to build the pool myself as there is no qualified pool builder in the philippines where I am building this. There is an on property water tower to fill the pool. I have had no luck finding a one line diagram that answers my questions. Please review this one line diagram to see if Im all wet (pun intended). At the bottom near valve J, its says "To Waste" which got cut off. So in normal operation, valves A,D,N,L,J, are closed, the rest are open. In backwashing the Sand Filter, valves N,L,H, I , J are open, the rest are closed. In filling the pool, N, L, G, D, A are open, the rest are closed (fills thru main drain, or could route to pool supply 1 & 2 instead). To drain the pool, A, M, K, J are open, the rest are closed. Please let me know your thoughts, or if I am missing something. All input appreciated !

Cheers,

Spiffdandy
 

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Are the skimmers venturi style? If so, why do you need valve D with that connection? You shouldn't need to connect the return side to the suction side of the pump.

Also, are you not planning any standard returns?
 
I plan on using Hayward SP1070's, not sure if they are venturi, thinking it can go either way depending if you plug one line. The returns are what Im calling "Pool supply to Skimmer' , actually the returns are just ports in the pool, opposite side from Skimmer, just below the surface and aimed at the Skimmer. Valve D splits the flow to direct it to 'Pump in', then thru Sand Filter then return back to pool. Thanks for the input, let me know if you see something missing.

Cheers,

Spiffdandy
 
"Pool supply to Skimmer" is what threw me off. We usually just call those returns.

The Hayward SP1070 is not a venturi skimmer. The dual ports in the bottom, one goes to the pump and the other an equalization port or MD.
 
OK thanks, obviously Im new to this. Do you have a recommended Skimmer or Skimmer style for my application? I plan to just have the returns aimed across pool at the Skimmers. Its about 25,000 gallons, bannana shaped with the ends being about 8' wide and the middle about 14' wide, with a nominal depth of 5' throughout. I plan on using 1 1/2" piping througout.
 
Looks like you could eliminate valves M, D, G, and K. Also the line that valve M is on. I would suggest more than 2 returns and also using 2" pipe for combined runs (if your volume is correct). Those skimmers you have picked out will work fine. I am fan of the "equalization port" set-up myself. I would recommend 6-8 total returns with at least two down low.


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Thank You Ale, so to clarify, your suggesting 6-8 returns and still only using 2 skimmers? Is the purpose a more even gentle flow to feed the skimmers? When you say use 2" pipe for combined runs, Im assuming you mean if two 1 1/2" pipes are coming in to one line, that line should be 2 inch ? Also, do you have a link or more information an 'equalization port' set-up?, and just curious why it is preferred. Thanks again for your responses! :)

Spiffdandy
 
You are right on the combined runs. Two skimmers should be enough for that volume. The skimmers aren't actually fed, they are on the suction side. The larger number of returns are to decrease the back pressure on the pump which will also enhance filter efficiency. I don't have any info on the equalization port. Some people use it for the main drain connection but I don't like that method for several reasons. Also on your diagram where you list main drain, I assume you are using the standard dual-drain main drain.


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For a variety of reasons you generally do not want to connect your water supply directly into your pool plumbing. Its flat illegal in many parts of the US to connect a potable water system into a recirculating pool. Either fill the pool with a hose from a hose bib or through a auto fill system and protect the potable water system with a backflow preventor.

Auto fill example Custom Molded Products Auto Water Leveler Round Tan Lid - 25504-109-000 - INYOPools.com
 
TY Ale, Yes will be using the dual main drain setup. Regarding your earlier comment about not needing valves M, D, G, and K, I am assuming K is needed in a sandfilter backflush situation? But as I study Sand Filters, maybe valve K is not needed as I believe the porting for backflow is internal on a sand filter? It seems to makes sense to me that valve D is needed and line with M valve in order to direct the circuit flow correctly, again let me know if I am missing something here. So it looks like all the in pump house piping will be 2" with the field piping being 1 1/2", appreciate the advice !

Thanks

Spiffdandy
 

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gwegan: I thought about the cross-connection issue but he said they are in the Phillipines so I assumed they don't have the same regulations.

Spiffdandy: You are right. You do need the line that M is on. You don't need D or the line it is on. The suction side should never be connected to the pressure side. I don't know which sand filter you are using but if it doesn't have a backwash valve then you will in fact need the other valves.


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An auto leveler keeps the pool at a constant level. It's housing is installed at the rough plumbing stage when the rebar for the shell is installed. Most PB put them next to the skimmer so they share the same trench.

Generally you would run a potable or source water line to the pad and install a potable water backflow preventor at the pad. Then run a line to the skimmer area where you install the auto levelor. when the water in the pool drops it allows in some more water.

It would be interesting to know whether the tropical rains in the Philippines are enough to keep the pool full (or over full).
 
TY Gwegan. Most of the year, it will be a non issue for rains over filling, but you did raise a question in my mind. During those approximately once a year tropical storms that bring 3 or 4 days of rain, is there some kind of gravity overflow that I should install? Is there skimmers available with and overflow feature? Otherwise, just planned to monitor it manually and pump it down, but got to thinking, quite often during those storms, the power co brownouts the area on purpose for safety, so maybe need to think about and overflow installation ?
 
Your right, I dont need that piping area around valve D, it can just be elbows above and below, in which case to fill it would be routed to the returns. Also not shown, but to be included is a check valve just beyond valve N. Thanks so much for your help and advice, I offer you 2 nights free stay at the resort when it is finished.

Cheers!

Spiffdandy
 
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