LOL, hey Sal go the K2006C, bigger bottles, more reagent. Also order their salt test kit at the same time...plus some extra reagents to save getting more shipped out. I bought extra of the wrong reagents so I will have a look and advise the ones you should buy, some reagents I have enough to last 10 years as you only need one drop per test!
Australian Test Kit
- Thread starter Hawknz
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Hey Crunchy - I have actually been thinking about the C version and am definitely getting the salt kit too - and the Speedstir as well - that thing looks good !
Didn't know what the speedstir, looked it up, added to my Amazon wishlist
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Hi guys,
I've just bitten the bullet and ordered the K-2006C kit with expedited delivery (only $10 more than standard delivery) from PoolVacParts to here in Aus.
Hopefully by next weekend I'll be measuring accurately - step #1 on the road to a Trouble Free Pool !
I've just bitten the bullet and ordered the K-2006C kit with expedited delivery (only $10 more than standard delivery) from PoolVacParts to here in Aus.
Hopefully by next weekend I'll be measuring accurately - step #1 on the road to a Trouble Free Pool !
Hi All,
I'm new here too - in Sydney, Australia. I'm very interested in how the deliveries of both the K-2006C and the TF-100 have gone - i.e did they arrive OK?
Also from Crunchy on what additional reagents to order at the same time as the K-2006C.
This thread has been a great help to me - thanks all!!
I'm new here too - in Sydney, Australia. I'm very interested in how the deliveries of both the K-2006C and the TF-100 have gone - i.e did they arrive OK?
Also from Crunchy on what additional reagents to order at the same time as the K-2006C.
This thread has been a great help to me - thanks all!!
Welcome to TFP!
With no problems in your pool the "C" version of the kit has sufficient reagents for a couple of pool seasons.
You don't have your pool information in your signature, but if you have a salt pool you want a salt test kit which is not included in the K2006.
When you get a moment, please add the details of your pool to your forum signature. To change your profile and/or signature, select "Settings" (top right under Pool School button). Scroll down (left side) to "My Settings" & select Edit Profile or Edit Signature.
Thanks Tim - signature updated. Sounds like the "C" kit will be enough for now.
Just as a quick sense check while I'm waiting for a decent test kit - I'm getting these results from AquaChek test strips:
FC - 10
TC - 5
pH - 7.8
TA - 120
TH - 250
CYA – 30-50
Salt- 7300
Just from my limited reading and experience (and recognising that test strips are not very reliable), the salt seems too high - is this an issue?
Also, the pH is stubbornly high, even after adding a few litres of acid - not sure if there could be a reason for this?
Just as a quick sense check while I'm waiting for a decent test kit - I'm getting these results from AquaChek test strips:
FC - 10
TC - 5
pH - 7.8
TA - 120
TH - 250
CYA – 30-50
Salt- 7300
Just from my limited reading and experience (and recognising that test strips are not very reliable), the salt seems too high - is this an issue?
Also, the pH is stubbornly high, even after adding a few litres of acid - not sure if there could be a reason for this?
Welcome Ratboy!
The best thing you can do is order a good test kit and then post up some reliable numbers. If you read through this thread there is plenty of good information about your options. The most efficient option if your insistent on the K2006C/K2006 is to order directly through a company called Poolvacparts based in the US. They will post directly to your address in Australia.
If you decide to order the K2006 you will definitely require more reagents for the FAS DPD, pH and CYA tests (the particular chemicals you will need are the R-0870 powder and R-0871 reagent for the FAS DPD test, R-0004 for pH and the R-0013 for CYA). Also order the larger sized bottles (60mls) but order a 1 pint bottle of R-0013 for CYA and you will be well covered. Even ordering the K2006C I would consider buying these as insurance.
I had to order these about 2 months after I ordered my K2006 as I ran out and it ended up costing me an extra $50 bucks for the postage so learnt the hard way.
Your numbers based on the aqua strips are not too bad but it is hard to recommend anything until you get a recommended test kit. By the way TC must always be higher or the equal to FC as TC= FC + CC. We are mainly concerned with the FC and CC numbers which you will be able to get from the your new kit when you receive it.
Post us some numbers when you get a decent testing kit (I mentioned it again) and we can guide you from there. Probably best to start a new post for your testing information rather than use this thread.
If you can afford it also order the Speedstir while your there!
I just received an email from Poolvacparts this morning which are offering $20 (USD discount I am assuming) for orders over $150. Discount code is DEC20.
The best thing you can do is order a good test kit and then post up some reliable numbers. If you read through this thread there is plenty of good information about your options. The most efficient option if your insistent on the K2006C/K2006 is to order directly through a company called Poolvacparts based in the US. They will post directly to your address in Australia.
If you decide to order the K2006 you will definitely require more reagents for the FAS DPD, pH and CYA tests (the particular chemicals you will need are the R-0870 powder and R-0871 reagent for the FAS DPD test, R-0004 for pH and the R-0013 for CYA). Also order the larger sized bottles (60mls) but order a 1 pint bottle of R-0013 for CYA and you will be well covered. Even ordering the K2006C I would consider buying these as insurance.
I had to order these about 2 months after I ordered my K2006 as I ran out and it ended up costing me an extra $50 bucks for the postage so learnt the hard way.
Your numbers based on the aqua strips are not too bad but it is hard to recommend anything until you get a recommended test kit. By the way TC must always be higher or the equal to FC as TC= FC + CC. We are mainly concerned with the FC and CC numbers which you will be able to get from the your new kit when you receive it.
Post us some numbers when you get a decent testing kit (I mentioned it again) and we can guide you from there. Probably best to start a new post for your testing information rather than use this thread.
If you can afford it also order the Speedstir while your there!
I just received an email from Poolvacparts this morning which are offering $20 (USD discount I am assuming) for orders over $150. Discount code is DEC20.
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Hi Ratboy,
Welcome here - as another recent starter here I can certainly vouch for the very friendly and helpful advice you'll get here.
I ordered my K2006C kit from PoolVacParts over the weekend and am now keenly tracking it via DHL. Took them a couple of days to kick the order off, but I think I bumped into weekend over there when I placed the order.
Current estimate is that it will be here next Monday. I paid an extra $10 for the Express delivery option too - don't know if that was worth it in hindsight.
Like you, I'm currently testing using strips, mainly to ensure my chlorine is up there - I'm not making any chemical decisions based on these results - and I'm very keen to compare my indicative strip test numbers against the actual Taylors numbers.
The key with your Salt measure is to aim for what your SWG manual recommends. TFP wisdom here suggests you should aim for 200-400 above your manufacturer's recommendation. Mine says 4000 so my goal is 4200 - 4400. Prior to now I've been driven by the Low Salt light on the unit. When it comes on I add salt until it stops coming on. I'm proposing to be a bit more proactive now though and try to stop the light coming on at all. For now I'm testing salt using strips - I'm quite sure the Taylors drop kit will be way better, but I'm saving my pennies at the moment and I think the salt strips will be fine for now.
Sal
Welcome here - as another recent starter here I can certainly vouch for the very friendly and helpful advice you'll get here.
I ordered my K2006C kit from PoolVacParts over the weekend and am now keenly tracking it via DHL. Took them a couple of days to kick the order off, but I think I bumped into weekend over there when I placed the order.
Current estimate is that it will be here next Monday. I paid an extra $10 for the Express delivery option too - don't know if that was worth it in hindsight.
Like you, I'm currently testing using strips, mainly to ensure my chlorine is up there - I'm not making any chemical decisions based on these results - and I'm very keen to compare my indicative strip test numbers against the actual Taylors numbers.
The key with your Salt measure is to aim for what your SWG manual recommends. TFP wisdom here suggests you should aim for 200-400 above your manufacturer's recommendation. Mine says 4000 so my goal is 4200 - 4400. Prior to now I've been driven by the Low Salt light on the unit. When it comes on I add salt until it stops coming on. I'm proposing to be a bit more proactive now though and try to stop the light coming on at all. For now I'm testing salt using strips - I'm quite sure the Taylors drop kit will be way better, but I'm saving my pennies at the moment and I think the salt strips will be fine for now.
Sal
As a matter of interest, while researching how to get a Taylors or TF-100 kit here in Aus, I managed to make contact with Taylors who put me in touch with their overseas distributors who in turn put me in touch with the Australian importers. These guys said that they only deal in trade, but offered to hunt down a local retailer who might be able to help - and that turned out to be my local pool shop that I've been using for 5 years !
I had asked that pool shop a couple of years ago about getting hold of a good testing kit and not unsurprisingly, they weren't really that helpful. Obviously its not in their best interest for me to be able to do my own testing.
I guess this is just validating that our approach in buying directly from the US retailers or via a freight forwarding company such as Aus Post's Shopmate is still the best way to go.
Still watching my kit on the DHL website - its left Cincinnati now so presumably is in the air somewhere !
I had asked that pool shop a couple of years ago about getting hold of a good testing kit and not unsurprisingly, they weren't really that helpful. Obviously its not in their best interest for me to be able to do my own testing.
I guess this is just validating that our approach in buying directly from the US retailers or via a freight forwarding company such as Aus Post's Shopmate is still the best way to go.
Still watching my kit on the DHL website - its left Cincinnati now so presumably is in the air somewhere !
Hi guys - lates update in my fight for a Trouble Free Pool:
My Taylors kit has landed at Melbourne airport and I'm hopeful I'll have it in my hands on Monday.
Had to go to pool store today for a new diaphragm for my Barracuda so thought I'd get them to test my water - just for giggles to see how their numbers compare to my strip testing I'm currently doing and my first real test in a couple of days.
Pool Shop results:
FC: 3.75, CC: 0.32, TC: 4.07
pH: 7.7
Hardness: 69
Alk: 48.8
CYA: 24
Copper: 0, Iron: 0.2, Phosphate: 0
Salt 4000
My Test Strip results:
FC: 3 - 5
pH: 7.8
TA: 40 - 80
CYA: 0 - 40
Salt: 3680
I asked Pool guy about the CYA and he said that reading of 24 was "perfect" - his words. He said that "We don't like it too high because you start to run into chemical balance problems". The recommended range on their results sheet is 30 - 100. When my kit arrives I'm shooting for the recommendation from here of 70 - 80.
I also asked Pool guy about the very fine layer of dust I currently have (that might be algae - how do I tell?). When I vacuum it at the moment it comes straight back into the pool via the return jets. Pool Guy's advice was to let it settle and then turn pump to waste and vacuum it slowly to waste so it won't return to the pool. I didn't know this was an option so I wanted to ask you guys what you think. Obviously I will need to top up afterwards if I did do that and if it is algae maybe that might at least get rid of the majority of it? I know that the recommended solution to algae is to SLAM and I'm ready for that if that's what I need to do, but I need my proper testing kit first to get my numbers right before I start.
My Taylors kit has landed at Melbourne airport and I'm hopeful I'll have it in my hands on Monday.
Had to go to pool store today for a new diaphragm for my Barracuda so thought I'd get them to test my water - just for giggles to see how their numbers compare to my strip testing I'm currently doing and my first real test in a couple of days.
Pool Shop results:
FC: 3.75, CC: 0.32, TC: 4.07
pH: 7.7
Hardness: 69
Alk: 48.8
CYA: 24
Copper: 0, Iron: 0.2, Phosphate: 0
Salt 4000
My Test Strip results:
FC: 3 - 5
pH: 7.8
TA: 40 - 80
CYA: 0 - 40
Salt: 3680
I asked Pool guy about the CYA and he said that reading of 24 was "perfect" - his words. He said that "We don't like it too high because you start to run into chemical balance problems". The recommended range on their results sheet is 30 - 100. When my kit arrives I'm shooting for the recommendation from here of 70 - 80.
I also asked Pool guy about the very fine layer of dust I currently have (that might be algae - how do I tell?). When I vacuum it at the moment it comes straight back into the pool via the return jets. Pool Guy's advice was to let it settle and then turn pump to waste and vacuum it slowly to waste so it won't return to the pool. I didn't know this was an option so I wanted to ask you guys what you think. Obviously I will need to top up afterwards if I did do that and if it is algae maybe that might at least get rid of the majority of it? I know that the recommended solution to algae is to SLAM and I'm ready for that if that's what I need to do, but I need my proper testing kit first to get my numbers right before I start.
Hi Sal,
Great news to hear your kit is in the country, hopefully it clears customs etc without a hassle. My TF-100 has arrived at the shopmate forwarding destination in the US, but i'm not expecting it until after new year because of all the public holidays etc in between sadly. However my clearchoicelabs kit is doing the job perfectly at the moment, I'm impressed with it and their service. They are also improving their pH kit and will be rolling that out soon.
Interesting your results from the poolshop, the shop near me recommends on their results a CYA of 30-100 aswell - I think that alone shows how ridiculous their tests are, there is a huge variance between a CYA of 30 and CYA of 100 (which you would never want so its stupid they recommend even a CYA of 80+) , in my experience with various poolshop test results here, its not necessarily the result thats questionable, its their "recommended ranges" which are way off the mark, and hence they promote you buying their products!.
Its interesting you say this "dust" returns to the pool straight away via the return jets, to me that sounds like an issue with your filter, did you deep clean it which I think someone suggested earlier?. If its coming in via the return jets (how do you know by the way?, is it visible?) then its not going to matter what you do to the water it will keep coming in. Even if you vac to waste, which might work initially, if there is a problem with the filtration it will no doubt just reoccur. You might have to visually inspect inside to see the sand level / ?broken lateral?
Hi Hawknz,
Sorry to hear you won't see your TF-100 until the New Year, but as you say you do have a perfectly acceptable alternative in the CCL kit so at least you can survive for a couple of weeks.
I haven't had a chance to check out the filter yet - thanks for reminding me. I do backwash/rinse almost daily now, but I think its time o have a crack at opening that puppy up. I think it was kim here who found a diagram for me of my filter so I might have to see how I go with that. In answer to your question - Yes, I can see the return jets turning brown just a minute or two after I vacuum so I could well have a problem with my filter which as you said means I really need to fix that because vacuuming to waste is only going to be a temporary solution. I was just reading a comment here from Dave (of TF-100 fame) that very fine dust like this is almost certainly an algae problem so I think I may have a SLAM in my immediate future too. When this dust is stirred up the water does look green, but when it clears the dust is brown and the water looks clear, but I've also just read here that if you can see green in any quantity you have algae so solve that problem.
Latest tracking entry in my shipment says "Customs status updated", but doesn't say if that's in a good way or a bad way - lol !!!
Sorry to hear you won't see your TF-100 until the New Year, but as you say you do have a perfectly acceptable alternative in the CCL kit so at least you can survive for a couple of weeks.
I haven't had a chance to check out the filter yet - thanks for reminding me. I do backwash/rinse almost daily now, but I think its time o have a crack at opening that puppy up. I think it was kim here who found a diagram for me of my filter so I might have to see how I go with that. In answer to your question - Yes, I can see the return jets turning brown just a minute or two after I vacuum so I could well have a problem with my filter which as you said means I really need to fix that because vacuuming to waste is only going to be a temporary solution. I was just reading a comment here from Dave (of TF-100 fame) that very fine dust like this is almost certainly an algae problem so I think I may have a SLAM in my immediate future too. When this dust is stirred up the water does look green, but when it clears the dust is brown and the water looks clear, but I've also just read here that if you can see green in any quantity you have algae so solve that problem.
Latest tracking entry in my shipment says "Customs status updated", but doesn't say if that's in a good way or a bad way - lol !!!
To me this is the key problem. I think regardless of whats going on with your water, algae, dirt, whatever, if it is being returned directly to the pool then if you dont fix it, it will reoccur, algae, dust, dirt, whatever is just going directly back in your pool, which seems odd, you haven't left your filter on "recirculate" instead of filter by accident? Doesn't seem like your filter is doing anything if thats the case, you shouldn't be needing to backwash everyday (is the sight-glass changing from dirty then goes clear during backwash?)
Yes you need to get that filter opened up. It sounds like a deep clean is in order. Hawknz asks a good question to check whether it's on filter not recirculate obvious though it may seem.
Are you backwasing because you are experiencing an increase in your pressure gauge or just trying to eradicate your problem with debris?
Are you backwasing because you are experiencing an increase in your pressure gauge or just trying to eradicate your problem with debris?
Good question, but I can assure you its definitely on filter
And I'm backwashing just to try to make sure that the filter is clean, not because of any pressure rise.One of the reasons I have delayed opening up the filter is because there are no unions on the pipework at the top so I'm potentially up for a bit of pipe cutting and reassembly to get it all back together again ! Time to go have a good look I guess !! I think the spider gasket needs replacing anyway as I do lose a bit down the waste side as well.
Unless you get a pressure rise, it is a waste of time, water and electricity to backwash. A pressure rise of 25% is the trigger to backwash.......no other reason to do it.
Thanks again Dave.
When I bought this house I got local poolshop guy to come out and give me a run down of basic pool care. He suggested backwashing at least monthly - he said nothing about pressure.
I'm really wishing I had found TFP 5 years ago - I'd be 5 years ahead of the game by now !!
When I bought this house I got local poolshop guy to come out and give me a run down of basic pool care. He suggested backwashing at least monthly - he said nothing about pressure.
I'm really wishing I had found TFP 5 years ago - I'd be 5 years ahead of the game by now !!
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