High Chlorine Usage

[boston62]

Fc 4
Ph 7.6
Cc 0
Ta 75
Cya 80
Salt 3300
Water Temp 81

Yesterday it was at 8ppm of fc, i brought this up with liquid chlorine from 2.5. There are no signs of algae, water is clear. I talked to Autopilot about the swg, he told me to test it by capping the bottom then fill with pool water, and there were bubbles from the plates. I am lost right now, the only thing is new is the solar heat which has been running great for months now. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also can you test liquid chlorine?
I am targeting 8 ppm
Today at 4 ppm

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[otter86753]

Sorry you are having an issue. Even if you don't see algae, I think you might have a nascent algae bloom brewing with a FC of 2.5. (The minimum FC level is 4 with CYA of 80). I would raise the FC to 10 tonight and perform an OCLT to rule out an algae bloom.

 

[boston62]

will do that tonight, Thanks

 

[tim5055]

Good advice to conduct the OCLT to see what is going on. Earlier this year I noticed a higher chlorine demand but my water was clear and nothing obvious was growing. I failed OCLT and ended up having to SLAM. As I caught it early it only took about four days at shock level to get it under control and pass OCLT.

Good job on paying attention to your pool!

 

[boston62]

I lost 3ppm overnight, will start SLAM today..Thanks

 

[boston62]

Good advice to conduct the OCLT to see what is going on. Earlier this year I noticed a higher chlorine demand but my water was clear and nothing obvious was growing. I failed OCLT and ended up having to SLAM. As I caught it early it only took about four days at shock level to get it under control and pass OCLT.

Good job on paying attention to your pool!

I think I'll run mine for 4 days also, since I can't see the algae. To do the OCLT again, do I have to bring the FC back down to normal level. Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

The amount of time it takes to pass a SLAM can vary from pool to pool, so don't get too hung-up on a specific number. The key is to follow everything you see on the SLAM page (link below) and pass the 3 SLAM criteria, one of which is the OCLT.

When performing the OLCT, remember that it must be done when the sun has dropped – no sunlight on the pool. About 8 hours total is recommended. If you use a SWG or automatic chlorinator, make sure they are turned-off or set to zero. Also, your FC level should be elevated more than normal. Starting (bedtime) FC could be close to your SLAM level, but no lower than 10. Anything less and you may not receive an accurate portrayal of FC loss (by percentage), even if it’s only 1 ppm.

Best of luck to you!

 

[tim5055]

Yes, like Pat said - the SLAM runs until you pass all three criteria, or in your case OCLT.

Just test at SLAM levels for the OCLT.

 

[boston62]

Should i circulate the water through the solar panels just in case something is in there also.

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[boston62]

Yes, like Pat said - the SLAM runs until you pass all three criteria, or in your case OCLT.

Just test at SLAM levels for the OCLT.

Ok, will do.Thanks

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[boston62]

Is it possible that algae is growing in my solar panels when the system turns off when reaching temp, and when the system is not used?

 

[tim5055]

Is it possible that algae is growing in my solar panels when the system turns off when reaching temp, and when the system is not used?

Yes, any area that has water I. It should be circulated regularly to keep the chlorine level up in that area. This is also common for spas.

 

[boston62]

Yes, any area that has water I. It should be circulated regularly to keep the chlorine level up in that area. This is also common for spas.

Thanks so now I know how it got started.

 

[boston62]

one last question, when doing the SLAM should the pump be run 24hrs? Thanks


I just read some older post, says to run24/7.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes - 24/7. Keep that water circulating, and continue to sweep/brush often to break-up any fresh algae growth in the pool. It will help the bleach work better. Good luck.

 

[boston62]

Thanks

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[boston62]

Well 7 days of the SLAM still losing 4ppm OCLT. I had some stains for almost a year yellow in color which i put a vit c tablet on it and the stain was gone, i read that mustard algae looks like this at the beginning, but would vit c lift it? I have noticed the high Chlorine are lightening the stains. My question is, is it mustard algae or metal stains, and would high Chlorine lighten metal stains. Thank you

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[flipr]

I was having a similar issue (posted in SWG area) and I thought SWG wasn't working. Gunite pool all crystal clear to the eye.
Found out by pulling light fixture out that I had algae bloom inside the light niche. Scrubbed it and skimmer out well, looks like I passed OCLT last night, so 5 days. All the time everything looked good to the eye, except the test results. Even if I was only dropping 2-3 ppm, I'd add more bleach to stay up in shock level. Did so much testing I used about 4 oz of r-0871. Takes a lot of drops when CL level is over 30!

I had to learn to trust the pool school and poolmath instead of my gut, based on PB opening crew, tossing around 'ideal' numbers.
We had some rain, so watching numbers for another night to confirm we are on target.

Good luck, I was really surprised pulling light out, been working on it in the dark, should be interesting to get a look Saturday morning.
And yes, our solar was circulating at the time, so any water in that system was getting shock levels too.

 

[boston62]

I was having a similar issue (posted in SWG area) and I thought SWG wasn't working. Gunite pool all crystal clear to the eye.
Found out by pulling light fixture out that I had algae bloom inside the light niche. Scrubbed it and skimmer out well, looks like I passed OCLT last night, so 5 days. All the time everything looked good to the eye, except the test results. Even if I was only dropping 2-3 ppm, I'd add more bleach to stay up in shock level. Did so much testing I used about 4 oz of r-0871. Takes a lot of drops when CL level is over 30!

I had to learn to trust the pool school and poolmath instead of my gut, based on PB opening crew, tossing around 'ideal' numbers.
We had some rain, so watching numbers for another night to confirm we are on target.

Good luck, I was really surprised pulling light out, been working on it in the dark, should be interesting to get a look Saturday morning.
And yes, our solar was circulating at the time, so any water in that system was getting shock levels too.

Well will pull the lights out, just replaced the bulbs about 2 months ago with led. I guess I can just let them hang in the water...you would think that water would circulate in the niche. Thanks for the info.

 

[flipr]

mine had about 4' of extra cable, so light is resting on the deck surface. My trim ring had holes for water flow, but I'm sure it wasn't flowingmoving enough for a regular water change. I too thought at shock levels I must have shock level inside pool light niche. Doesn't change the slimy green cable I had though. Live and learn for me.