New Build CT

Sep 13, 2015
201
Hartford/CT
So we finally signed the contract and the dig starts before thanksgiving.. Couldn't be more excited. 36x21 free form gunite including raised spa with spillover. Just can't decide if we want white led lights or colored! [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]


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Lights inside a pool are awesome! and Colored lights are just fantastic IMO. I almost went with the white only, but decided to spend a little more and man we don't regret it. For Halloween we set the red, magenta and orange colors. The sister in laws did some decorations outside the pool and it just really set a cool mood. I hate Halloween and even I was too happy during the party. If you can, go colored. Good luck with the build and congrats!
 
Here are the details...
a) 7’ Round Spa Built Adjacent to Pool in Shallow End; Spa to Include a Step, Wrap Around Bench, 8 Jets, 2 HP Air Blower and White LED Spa Light
b) 28 Sq. Ft. of Raised Bond Beam in Standard Tile to Elevate the Spa 12” Above the Pool and Patio
c) 3’ to 8’ Water Depth for Pool
d) Set of Three Walk In Stairs in Shallow End
e) 6’ Bench Attached to the Stairs
f) 5’ Loveseat in Deep End as Second Means of Egress
g) 2” Tile Trim on Loveseat as a Visual Indicator
h) 6” x 6” Border of Porcelain Tile at Waterline of Pool and Spa
i) Dark Gray Colored Marcite Interior Plaster Finish
j) 6” x 12” Bullnosed Paver Coping on Walls of Pool and “Double”
Coping on Spa Walls
k) Jandy Variable Speed Pump
l) Jandy CV-340 Cartridge Filtration System
m) Jandy 400,000 BTU Propane Heater
n) Jandy iAqualink 8-PS Automated Web Based Pool and Spa Controller with Sp Link and Surge Protection
o) Two Skimmers
p) Two Wall Returns
q) Paramount MDX-3 Main Drain System with Hair and Body Anti-Entrapment Protection and Hydrostatic Relief Valve
r) Off Line Erosion Chlorinator
s) Two Underwater White LED Pool Lights
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I was going for just the white lights, also, until my son talked me into the color LEDs. I'm so glad he did! I love them - I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Our pool has been filled for only about 3 months, so I'm far from experienced as a pool owner. Take these suggestions for what it's worth - maybe not much...

Our pool goes from 4 feet to 7 feet. Even with your length, your slope would be a little steeper than I would like. We love our 4 ft shallow end, so that may be something to consider.

Your pool is set back from your house which I can see might have some advantages. Are you sure you want your spa on the far side of the pool? We've enjoyed having the spa closer to the house, and it's not even winter here yet.

As far as equipment goes, the experts can better advise you, but I'm wondering if a larger filter and more pool returns would be better. I think your pool will be a little larger than ours which has about 6 returns. Even if not truly necessary, I feel like they do a better job moving stuff to the skimmers than if we had fewer returns. Also, I've enjoyed having more returns the few times I've set the heater on for the pool to get a bit of warmth from the returns now that the water is in the low 70's. We don't leave it on long enough to heat the pool - just for a quick swim.

Oh well, just a couple of things to confuse you more! Lol!

Take care and congrats on your new adventure!
Suz.
 
Welcome to TFP!
I agree with Suz about the spa, unless you don't plan to utilize it during the cold months. Otherwise, it'll be a pretty chilly run to the spa and you may not ever want to get out to run back to the house! BURRRRRRRR

This will be fun to watch!
 
Yes we have picked out our tile it will be a more slate/natural look.. I now need to think about the location of the spa. I thought 2 returns was enough but I'm now going to have to look into it. I appreciate any and all advice! Rather do it now than regret it later.


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I have mixed feelings so far about our auto fill. I'm not sure I can really answer your question about it making life easier, since I'm so new to the pool experience. I used a neighbor's pool last year, and he suggested I get one. But the first couple of months, the auto fill wasn't hooked up, so I used the hose to fill when needed. In my case, it's a very short distance to pull the hose over to the pool. I'm sure I'd feel differently if it wasn't as convenient, and I just always filled when I was in the pool. Since it's been hooked up, my water bill is much higher, so I'm a little concerned maybe I have a leak. I know I can look in pool school and figure it out, but if I didn't have the auto fill, I'd know how often I was filling it with the hose. I think it will be easier to shut it off and then see how often I need to add water. I hope this makes sense. Anyway, that's what I meant by saying I have mixed feelings about the auto fill. One more thing.... we don't travel, so it's not like I have to worry about the water level getting too low when out of town. That could make a difference in your decision.

What I am glad I have is the overflow. My neighbor also suggested getting that since he didn't have that either. His pool was built about 30 years ago. From what I can tell, now days, an overflow is fairly standard. But if you're given a choice, I'd definitely make sure to get the overflow.

Take care,
Suz.
 
Also who has an auto fill.. Does it make life that much easier?


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We have an autofill but it was broken initially and it kept filling the pool and almost overflowed it because it wouldn't shut off. We got it fixed but now I wouldn't leave it on if I went on vacation because I would be worried it could break. But it is still convenient when in not on vacation because I can turn it on and not worry about remembering to turn the hose off.

We don't have an overflow line but I think that would be a good idea.
 
Welcome :wave:

Have you read through the water chemistry sections (Pool School) and understand the TFPC Method? This may guide your decisions better. Many people who start build threads naturally get so caught up in the myriad of options and choices that they neglect to understand what it is that we teach here about pool care. Pool water chemistry seems complicated and so it becomes a "I'll read about that later" thing. Build threads are great and lots of fun but, they are just the "birthing process" for a pool. Long term, like raising a teenager, you're going to need the wisdom of PoolSchool to help you and decisions you make now in your build will affect the ways in which you "raise that teenager" later on.

I would suggest the following -

1. Auto fill YES absolutely convenient to have.

2. Minimum of three returns in a completed pipe loop, not just a dead-end run. I would have 4 returns. Also, if can specify PVC pipe diameter you want 2" PVC as your minimum. 3" is better but may not be available. 2-1/2" is a great compromise.

3. A puck chlorinator is fine INITIALLY but when you learn the TFPC Method you'll see long term puck use is frowned upon. A salt water chlorine generator would be great in Connecticut since you get lots of rain to protect your stone hardscape. However, your PB may not offer SWGs. So look into that as SWG are a fabulous way to make pool sanitation highly automated. Stay away from UV/Ozone systems and any "mineral" based system (Cu + Ag ions) as they are all a waste and, in the case of minerals, can cause plaster staining.

4. Do you already have propane? Propane is HUGELY expensive to heat with unless your electric rates are astronomical as well. Forget about heating the pool with propane. You can use it on the spa but if you want to heat the pool at all (and I think you will) you should consider a heat pump for the pool.

5. LEDs are great. I don't have them but wish I did. Add two lights to the pool for better light output at night.


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My builder uses minimum 2" PVC pipe, we are only doing chlorine initially as upgrading was a break the bank option, we have natural gas (I forgot to edit that, and he caught that when going over the contract) We will have 2 lights in the pool as the builder said 1 was not enough. I'm going to have to look into these returns because he said 1 was enough but I wanted 1 more - now I'm thinking another 2 but he's a top 10 of the the top 50 pool builders. So I'm sure they wouldn't ruin their reputation by not recommending enough. Thanks for the advice.. My researching keeps continuing! [emoji16]


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Ok. Nat gas is MUCH better but you still can't really heat a pool with it unless you like to pay high gas bills. Can you get solar heating in your area? It's a great way to heat the pool water in the elbow months and you'll be able to open your pool much earlier than everyone else. If you can't afford it now then have the plumber add stubs with a bypass loop for a future solar installation.

If you can't do salt or Stenner pump chlorine injection now, then make sure the plumber gives you lots of room on a PVC line (straight 24" run of PVC) to add it in later. PVC is cheap to add extra to now; trying to squeeze something in later with no room to spare will make it frustrating to upgrade.

I get your builder has a good reputation but I think just two returns is too few. With just 2 returns, your heads loss in the return loop will be higher and it will be harder to dial in a good return circulation in the pool to push debris to the skimmer. I wouldn't settle for less than 3 returns and 2-1/2" PVC on a full loop return. But others can chime in.

Also, on the suction side, make sure your skimmers and main drain are all individually plumbed to the pump with their own shutoff valves. Do not allow anything to be put in series. This gives you maximum control over the suction side head loss.

Also, if it's within your budget, use all Jandy shutoff and control valves as well as the more expensive Jandy check valves. They are far superior to the simple PVC ball valves you see so many pools built with. And the best part is they are serviceable if they should develop leaks.



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Yes, colored LED's, hands down. 3' is really shallow, mostly too shallow. Suggest 3.5 - 8.5+. I presume you are getting 8 to dive (or even a diving board), so the deeper the better. Insurance if you will. But still no guarantee.

If there is no stone keeping you from a SWCG (and many northeast stones are ok with salt) then by all means plumb for it if you can't swing it now. You will want it in the future.
 
I also noticed that your spa has a 2-hp air blower. I have a spa almost exactly the same size as yours with 6 jets and I do not need a blower. My plumbing just uses a basic Venturi air draw with no additional booster pump or blower needed. I also run it using my IntelliFlo VS pump and I get air jet action on both low and high speeds. Perhaps some other TFP members with more plumbing experience can explain when a blower is required but I have seen threads where some consider them just a waste of money. If you have a large enough VS pump and a proper plumbing design, I think blowers are largely unnecessary and more of a throw-back to the days before VS pumps were available.


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I'm going to look into adding more returns. Nice thinking with adding the stubs with a bypass loop so we can add solar in the future!

I believe all skimmers and main drained are plumbed individually but will have to double check.

The Jandy shutoffs and control values are the only thing they use.

We keep going back and fourth about the depth, as we have small kids 2 & 7 right now and feel they would use the shallow end more than the deep. Originally we started at 3.5' to 8' and settled on 3' to 7.5' as we would of lost around 6 feet of the shallow end (roughly could be more or less)

I'm still not sure about salt water as we have a saying in New England "Salt will melt / disintegrate anything it lands on" also see that the West Coast is already starting to move away from SWG.

My builder told me at 6 jets for the spa I could use the VS pump but when I wanted the 8 jets he recommended the 2hp blower.. It was about a $50 up charge so I couldn't see not getting it.


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I would still recommend salt. Here's why -

1. Stone degradation by salt is more of problem in dry/arid climates where splash out lands on unsealed, soft stone and the salt penetrates the porous rock. When the water evaporates, the recrystalization pressure of the salt forming inside the stone pores causes micro-cracking and eventual spalling of the rock surface. Adequate rinsing with fresh water helps reduce this risk greatly. Being in New England, you get more than enough annual rainfall to keep the stone surface properly rinsed. Using a stone sealing compound would only improve the longevity of whatever stone you use and is warranted in your part of the country anyway to protect stone from freeze/thaw damage by water infiltration.

2. All pools are salt water pools. Long term use of any chlorine product as well as muriatic acid for pH control will lead to salt build up in any pool. After as little as two seasons, your pool water could easily approach the salinity of SWG pools anyway. So you still have to worry about salt water issues REGARDLESS of whether or not you have an SWG.

Ok, I understand your blower setup. I suppose a $50 up charge isn't much but do know that those blowers can make a heck of a lot of noise, so put the equipment pad as far away from the pool (or in a shed) as you can.


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