Does a Pool Cover Effect Water Readings?

[johnmw1]

Hi,

Just wondering what effect if any there is with me having the pool cover on most of the time in an effort to save on evaporation and also to help keep the solar pump from not running constantly?

Bearing in mind also that I'm trying to raise my CYA levels at the moment and also lower PH.

Cheers,
John

 

[JoyfulNoise]

What kind of cover is it? Bubble? Clear or opaque?

 

[johnmw1]

What kind of cover is it? Bubble? Clear or opaque?

Hi Matt,

It's an opaque bubble, light blue.

Cheers,
John

 

[MarianParoo]

What kind of effect(s) are you asking about?

Your should uncover about 2 hours a day to allow outgassing. Covering helps maintain FC. There is more, let us know.

 

[johnmw1]

What kind of effect(s) are you asking about?

Your should uncover about 2 hours a day to allow outgassing. Covering helps maintain FC. There is more, let us know.

I had just wondered if it had any adverse effects in trying to maintain correct chemical levels etc?

Cheers,
John

 

[Jezza]

Hi John,

I have the same cover as you have described.

I leave mine pretty much on most of the time during the spring and summer. From my experience it does make a difference to the FC consumed by the sunlight especially with the really hot weather in Jan-March. In theory, when the cover is on the pH should be steady, but I find that for some reason my pH actually goes down a little, despite the absence of any acidic products- but that's another story! I open the cover up every couple of days for outgassing to get the pH up again as I like it to sit around 7.8 which is where my pool seems to like it. (Also my kids provide plenty of aeration on the holidays as well as a drain on my FC) and the cover will be off for a lot of the day.

I think it is just a matter of keeping a record of FC and pH levels in particular -testing regularly to see how your pool responds with the different variables- cover on/off, bather load, weather, water temperature. This will also help to keep your parameters within the recommended range.

Also the real value of the cover is keeping the heat from escaping overnight.

 

[johnmw1]

Hi John,

I have the same cover as you have described.

I leave mine pretty much on most of the time during the spring and summer. From my experience it does make a difference to the FC consumed by the sunlight especially with the really hot weather in Jan-March. In theory, when the cover is on the pH should be steady, but I find that for some reason my pH actually goes down a little, despite the absence of any acidic products- but that's another story! I open the cover up every couple of days for outgassing to get the pH up again as I like it to sit around 7.8 which is where my pool seems to like it. (Also my kids provide plenty of aeration on the holidays as well as a drain on my FC) and the cover will be off for a lot of the day.

I think it is just a matter of keeping a record of FC and pH levels in particular -testing regularly to see how your pool responds with the different variables- cover on/off, bather load, weather, water temperature. This will also help to keep your parameters within the recommended range.

Also the real value of the cover is keeping the heat from escaping overnight.

HI Jezza,

Sorry been at work the last few days.

Yes I'm leaving the cover on mainly because of the huge evaporation we're experiencing here at the moment and it's still only spring + our water rates here in SA are so over the top compared to the rest of the country it's a disgrace and is almost extortion at the highest level. If only I could sink my own bore, but living on top of the hill I imagine the water table is way deeper than if I was living on the flat?

I will be doing another full test today but don't expect too many changes yet except for maybe FC as I have turned the SWG down about 4 levels.

Also I have discovered Jesse's excel spreadsheet which is just the bees knees for what I want.

Came across liquid stabilizer in Bunnings the other day which is currently on special. I'm assuming liquid stabilizer will act faster than dry stabilizer? Still not sure yet where the best place locally is for buying pool supplies, as they all seem to carry different brands and I find it hard to compare like for like.

Cheers,
John

 

[Jezza]

Liquid stabiliser is generally not recommended here because of the expense- how much is it at Bunnings?? Up to you whether it is worth the extra dollars. I bought some granular stabiliser the other day for about $10- pretty cheap!! The slight inconvenience of granular is worth it- you need to wait a week to retest and it can take a few days to dissolve. I find when I add granular using the old sock in front of a return method it takes about 24 hours-obviously dependent on the pump run time. The only other consideration is to avoid backwashing.

I have found that Bunnings or Masters is generally the cheapest option but Masters is the cheapest for bulk liquid chlorine if you need it. Shops like Clarke Rubber and probably most other pool shops are generally way overpriced. Depending on how you water chemistry balances out- the only real chemicals I've had to use since using the TFP methods are stabiliser, for CYA, calcium for CH and HCL to balance out the pH.

 

[MarianParoo]

Personally, if I were in a hurry due to any chemical issues, I would use liquid, especially if it was on sale. I am not a penny-pincher when it comes to convenience or immediacy.

 

[johnmw1]

Liquid stabiliser is generally not recommended here because of the expense- how much is it at Bunnings?? Up to you whether it is worth the extra dollars. I bought some granular stabiliser the other day for about $10- pretty cheap!! The slight inconvenience of granular is worth it- you need to wait a week to retest and it can take a few days to dissolve. I find when I add granular using the old sock in front of a return method it takes about 24 hours-obviously dependent on the pump run time. The only other consideration is to avoid backwashing.

I have found that Bunnings or Masters is generally the cheapest option but Masters is the cheapest for bulk liquid chlorine if you need it. Shops like Clarke Rubber and probably most other pool shops are generally way overpriced. Depending on how you water chemistry balances out- the only real chemicals I've had to use since using the TFP methods are stabiliser, for CYA, calcium for CH and HCL to balance out the pH.

Have just come home from Bunnings again and still empty handed as I have some granular to still get rid of. It is $23.95 for 2 1/2 litres but instructions were not terribly clear as to whether I'm supposed to use all of it or not. Looked it up on the Hy Chlor site and it is not even listed although they do have a MSDS for it, likewise nothing on the Bunnings web site so I suspect it is probably being discontinued.

I have just taken another CYA reading and at the moment still does not register, so I will dose it up again tonight and see what the reading is tomorrow. Due to heavy rains forecast I have removed the cover for the time being.

Cheers,
John

- - - Updated - - -

Personally, if I were in a hurry due to any chemical issues, I would use liquid, especially if it was on sale. I am not a penny-pincher when it comes to convenience or immediacy.

Marian,

Yes I may just grab some while it's on special, another day tomorrow.

Cheers,
John

 

[Jezza]

I just ran the numbers through Poolmath John, (based on your size pool of 35000L) so that your sort of comparing oranges with oranges.

-The 2.5L of liquid stabiliser will add 26 CYA to your pool @ $24.
-The 2kg granular bag of stabiliser will add 57 CYA @ $11.

So it will take 2 x 2.5L bottles of liquid stabiliser to get you to roughly the same level that 1 bag of the granular stabiliser will get you- but at about 4 and a bit times the cost. (Hopefully that it puts it into some perspective)! If its not too late, I would just hold off on the stabiliser if there is any chance that you may have any overflow with the rain and you have to backwash- (don't know if that will be an issue or not.). Also remember that the new addition of CYA will take about a week to register on your testing.

If you haven't had a look down the bottom of Poolmath you can see the effect of adding certain chemicals to your pool in term of how they affect your various parameters. You can then toggle with the various menu options. It's a really important part of the Poolmath tool!!

 

[johnmw1]

I just ran the numbers through Poolmath John, (based on your size pool of 35000L) so that your sort of comparing oranges with oranges.

-The 2.5L of liquid stabiliser will add 26 CYA to your pool @ $24.
-The 2kg granular bag of stabiliser will add 57 CYA @ $11.

So it will take 2 x 2.5L bottles of liquid stabiliser to get you to roughly the same level that 1 bag of the granular stabiliser will get you- but at about 4 and a bit times the cost. (Hopefully that it puts it into some perspective)! If its not too late, I would just hold off on the stabiliser if there is any chance that you may have any overflow with the rain and you have to backwash- (don't know if that will be an issue or not.). Also remember that the new addition of CYA will take about a week to register on your testing.

If you haven't had a look down the bottom of Poolmath you can see the effect of adding certain chemicals to your pool in term of how they affect your various parameters. You can then toggle with the various menu options. It's a really important part of the Poolmath tool!!

Hey Jezza,

You're a legend you have done all the work for me, and yes I shall stick to granular stabilizer.

No I was not aware of that handy little function at the bottom of Poolmath, I can play around for ages with that one.

Didn't get the expected rain that was forecast unfortunately.

I ended up putting in about 950 gm of stabilizer which I had left and with my new found thingy in Poolmath find that it will lift my CYA by 27 and drop my PH by 0.5, oh I like this new tool. Will get some more stabilizer after the weekend after my next 24hr stint at work.

Cheers,
John

 

[Jezza]

Think of the savings in terms of a slab of beer-always helps me!!

 

[Crmdgnly]

Liquid stabiliser is generally not recommended here because of the expense- how much is it at Bunnings?? Up to you whether it is worth the extra dollars. I bought some granular stabiliser the other day for about $10- pretty cheap!! The slight inconvenience of granular is worth it- you need to wait a week to retest and it can take a few days to dissolve. I find when I add granular using the old sock in front of a return method it takes about 24 hours-obviously dependent on the pump run time. The only other consideration is to avoid backwashing.

I have found that Bunnings or Masters is generally the cheapest option but Masters is the cheapest for bulk liquid chlorine if you need it. Shops like Clarke Rubber and probably most other pool shops are generally way overpriced. Depending on how you water chemistry balances out- the only real chemicals I've had to use since using the TFP methods are stabiliser, for CYA, calcium for CH and HCL to balance out the pH.

I have to admit I don't know what concentration it is, or if it keeps but Masters have HCL for $40 for 20l at the moment (Diggers brand) if it helps.

 

[Jezza]

Yes you just need to check the concentration it should be along the lines of 320g/litre for the best value. HCL will last for ages if you store it properly-good ventilation and keep the cap on tight!