Having trouble clearing my pool

Jan 1, 2015
7
Seneca SC
Hello All,

While I am not new to this site, been previewing all post and reviewing the site for about a year now I am having difficulty transferring from pool chemicals to using the TFP suggested version. This summer I had my four grandkids at my house and two other guest using the pool for about 5 weeks. (Was using pool chemicals then.) After they all left, approximately 2 weeks later I developed problems with my pool water. It became a green/yellow murky mess. It was then that I decided to transfer over to the TFP version of maintaining my pool. At first I thought the filter was not working properly, so I changed the sand filter's sand. The filter system appears to be working properly. Typically it runs at about 18 PSI, and I have been backwashing and rinsing daily. I also have a pool vacuum robot that I have been running twice daily (2 - 4 hour cycles). On top of that I have been battling falling leaves which I skim out 4 times a day and empty both skimmer basket and filter basket once or twice daily. When I first changed over to the TFP version of maintaining. I had a CC reading of 3. My PH was 7.4. and the CA was coming in at around 24. Over a period of 2 weeks now I have put in 10 gallons of Clorox bleach, (1 per day, along with), (1-lb packets of pool shock chemicals daily) trying to get may water back to pristine clear. Today my CC reading is maxed out above reading so it comes in at above 10. PH is around 7.8) and my CA is 18. From backwashing the pool daily I have had to add water twice so new water has been introduced twice within the last two weeks. I also have brushed the entire surfaces and liner daily with the exception of 2 days out of about 14. My water is still green and not pristine in appearance. Realizing I am not about to swim any more due to pool water temperatures being below 70 degrees, so I am not missing swim times but it bothers me that I am unable to get the water back to pristine clear condition. While I have see some improvement's, slight changes; it still has been a battling problem. Yes I do have a Taylor test kit I am using, and it is not test strips or cheap type of test kit. My main concern is that 1 gal of Clorox is costing me 3.48 per gallon, and the 1 lb packs of shock treatments is 3.78 each, along with 99% Clorox 3 inch tablets in skim basket. I still have green water, compared to using the pool chemicals that was your typical mixture of chemicals, and using soda ash and liquid PH up and down chemicals when I did have pristine balanced water this past summer. I want and thoroughly appreciate the TFP method of maintaining and really want for it to be the way moving forward but having difficulty with the conversion. My pool was last pristine the end of July of 2015, it has been very troubling and a concern for me since then since I have been battling the green murkiness since Aug of 2015.

Any suggestions from the knowledgeable heads would be greatly appreciated.
 
Good morning, the first thing you'll need to do to get help is list your current readings (see below). I'm glad you seem to have realized that the filter is not causing the algae. As you may have gleaned, algae is always a chemical issue not a filtration issue. Backwashing everyday is not required, 'dirty sand' will actually filter better than clean or recently backwashed sand. You should only be backwashing after a 25% increase over clean pressure. Which looks to be 18# in your case, so you should backwash at 22#.

Also, what test kit (model #) are you using?

Post these as soon as you can.
FC -
CC -
Ph -
CYA -
TA -
CH - (less important due to liner)

Congrats to the first step to pristine water and good luck.
 
Hello Bird2014. I agree with Pool Tool's notes above. In addition, I would also recommend:
- Stop using the pool store bags of shock. They add stabilizer and/or calcium depending upon which one you are using, and that could be a problem for you down the road
- Stick just to regular liquid bleach (generic is fine). Locally I get it at Wal-mart for about $2.98. Just shop around for the best value; but just make sure it's regular bleach
- Cloudiness, green, and high CC readings mean you have algae in the water and you need to "SLAM" (link is below in my sig). Please read that page for details - it works!

We'll be on the lookout for your test results. Besides that, read the SLAM page (and probably the ABCs of Water Chemistry on the Pool School page), and then post a full set of test results as noted above. We'll help you get past this frustrating time with some good TFP care.
 
Good morning, the first thing you'll need to do to get help is list your current readings (see below). I'm glad you seem to have realized that the filter is not causing the algae. As you may have gleaned, algae is always a chemical issue not a filtration issue. Backwashing everyday is not required, 'dirty sand' will actually filter better than clean or recently backwashed sand. You should only be backwashing after a 25% increase over clean pressure. Which looks to be 18# in your case, so you should backwash at 22#.

Also, what test kit (model #) are you using? I am using Taylor K-2000, with additional separate purchases of Taylor agents for testing.

Post these as soon as you can.
FC - My FC is above 10 and the gauge provided with my kit only goes to 10 for Chlorine. Once agent R-0001 and R-0002 5 drops each are added the water is darker then the Gauge 10 marking.
CC - My CC is above 10 and the gauge provided with my kit only goes to 10 for Chlorine Once agent R-0003, 5 drops are added the water is darker then the Gauge 10 marking.
Ph - My PH is at 7.8
CYA - My CYA comes in at 18, Testing does as soon as water is taken from deep end of pool under water surface.
TA - My kit did not include agents R-0007, R-0008 or R-0009. So I do not have that reading without purchasing additional chemicals or testing gauge.
CH - (less important due to liner)

Congrats to the first step to pristine water and good luck.
ok, I will not backwash until my PSI gauge reached the 22# moving forward, but I will continue to brush, vacuum, and skim.

The pool math calculator does not indicate for me to add more chlorine but it certainly needs something added because it is not pristine clear. Any thoughts? Also my pool holds 22000 gallons of water (18x36) average depth is 5ft.

- - - Updated - - -

I am using Taylor K-2000, with additional separate purchases of Taylor agents for testing.

Post these as soon as you can.
FC - My FC is above 10 and the gauge provided with my kit only goes to 10 for Chlorine. Once agent R-0001 and R-0002 5 drops each are added the water is darker then the Gauge 10 marking.
CC - My CC is above 10 and the gauge provided with my kit only goes to 10 for Chlorine Once agent R-0003, 5 drops are added the water is darker then the Gauge 10 marking.
Ph - My PH is at 7.8
CYA - My CYA comes in at 18, Testing does as soon as water is taken from deep end of pool under water surface.
TA - My kit did not include agents R-0007, R-0008 or R-0009. So I do not have that reading without purchasing additional chemicals or testing gauge.

ok, I will not backwash until my PSI gauge reached the 22# moving forward, but I will continue to brush, vacuum, and skim.

The pool math calculator does not indicate for me to add more chlorine but it certainly needs something added because it is not pristine clear. Any thoughts? Also my pool holds 22000 gallons of water (18x36) average depth is 5ft.
 
First thing you need to do is get a test kit that goes higher than 10. There are two that we recommend. The TF-100 with XL option or the K-2006. Either is available at TFTestkits.net The TF-100 is a better deal.

Having said that. Your pool is in need of SLAMming. While doing that your FC is going to need to be at the shock level shown in this table:
Chlorine CYA Chart
 
Can you walk me through how you are doing the CYA test? It seems as if it should be higher with the bag shock you have added.

We CAN get your water fixed up to be a jewel with your help. Keep answering our questions as we work our way through your troubles.

Kim
 
ok, I'll check into purchasing a new test kit or separate purchases adding to the one I have. Thanks for directing me to the chart as well. Once I receive new test kit or additional purchases I'll post new test results. Much obliged by your response.
 
The steps I take in checking my CYA is:

Fill collecting tube (Taylor Part #9191) with pool water to the 7 ML line using Taylor Collecting Tube. Adding Taylor Agent R-0013 which is Cyanuric Acid Regent till it gets to 14 ML line. Mixing for 30 seconds. Then using Compartment tube transfer water sample to small compartment that has the black dot on bottom till the black dot disappears from the top. Yesterday I added, (5 gallons of Bleach) Todays CYA is 20.

Thanks for your response.
 
Well, your CYA is at the bare-bones minimum noted on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. Normally, in the middle of summer, we'd advise you to raise that right away to protect your FC, but this time of year (cooler water and less direct sun) you may get by with 20 for s short while. But you'll want to increase it to at least 30 in the near future. The good thing about that CYA of 20 is that since you need to SLAM, the SLAM (FC) level for a pool with your current CYA is an FC of 10, which if I understand correctly is the max limit of your current tester right? So you may actually be able to start your SLAM now via the SLAM page (link below in sig) by maintaining that FC of 10. If you do start your SLAM now, make sure you verify/adjust pH to between 7.2 - 7.5 first, then follow everything noted on the SLAM page. If you follow everything on the SLAM page, it will kill any algae, but you must follow all the steps carefully.
 

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I have visited the recommended site you provided and purchased the additional agents of R0007, R0008, and R0009 for Testing TA along with the Taylor Calibrated Cylinder, I should receive them today. I tried to locate the FAS-DPD chlorine test which according to this site can be purchased separately however was not able to ascertain ordering information. I did send them a request for information through their site, however will not be able to purchase that till information is received. While I appreciate your insight, my Taylor K-2000 is only 6 mths old and I still having useable agents that are good for other testing needs. I am happy to purchase additional supplies or testing materials.

I will additional testing results once I am able to when new testing equipment and supplies are available.

- - - Updated - - -

I was outside and held the measuring gauge up to sunlight.
 
Here is the page to the FAS-DPD reagents: TFTestkits.net. It's on the TFtestkits web site. You definitely want this to perform a SLAM and accurately monitor FC levels. Other than that, you can still use you other Taylor reagents from other kits to perform TC and pH tests.
 
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